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Thread: New Router Table Build Complete

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Chicago Suburbs
    Posts
    200

    New Router Table Build Complete

    I finished this in the fall but only posted a few pics of the front. Here I'll go through some of the design ideas and provide some detailed photos.

    I built my first router table in 2007 when I was new to woodworking. I based it off the updated New Yankee router table. It was quite functional, but over the years I decided that I was unhappy with the sloppy work, the below-table dust collection, the bit storage, the amount of drawer storage and the caster system.

    Here's a pic of my RT built in 2007:



    I set out to address some of these inadaquacies in the new build. What I was very pleased with from the original table was the PC 7518 Router and the router table top, fence and router lift from Jessem. These items were all carried over to the new table:

    IMG_0357.jpg

    My first router table was built as a single cabinet like Norm's using dados to create the various partitions. This time I decided that I'd build each section as a stand-alone component. This would allow me to focus on the quality/accuracy of each section and would overall create a heavier and stiffer cabinet when all the pieces were joined together. The mobile base was built first using a kit from Rockler that allowed me to make it the exact width and length I wanted. One foot pedal raises and lowers the entire table. Next to be built was the largest section for the three drawers. It was sized to exactly match the mobile base. Instead of the cheap drawer guides that I used the first time, these are 20" full extension soft-close.

    IMG_0356.jpg

    Next I built the two upper side cases. These are exactly the same size but the one on the left was built for short height storage drawers for bits and the right side was made as pure storage drawers. The upper middle section came next. These drawers are about 5" each but are only about 5" deep. Not the most practical size but it let me take advantage of otherwise unused space and I've found they are a handy place to store extra collets and guide bushings.

    IMG_0358.jpg

    IMG_0355.jpg

    Probably the most unique aspect of this build was the under-table dust collection. Since I had closed off the front of the cabinet with the upper middle drawers, I couldn't create "make up air" holes like I'd done on the first table. I decided to make the back panel in three sections. The lowest section has three holes for air in-take on the back and is made with side panels and a top panel that is notched out in the shape of the router lift. This lower section slides out in one piece. Above that is the dust collection port. This section is screwed to the back of the cabinet. The smallest section at the top is a little access panel that is friction fit and held in place with magnets. If I need to see into the router compartment, I can easily remove this panel.

    IMG_0343.jpg

    More up-close pictures of the back coming next...

  2. #2
    Wow nice job! Great use of space that has me thinking of how better to use my limited space.

  3. #3
    I'm thinking its time to upgrade mine. It works fine, but there are details I don't like about it and you've give me some great ideas Mike.
    Dennis

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Chicago Suburbs
    Posts
    200

    Smile

    This first pic shows the back panels of the RT. The top and bottom panels are removable. The middle section would need to be unscrewed from the case.

    IMG_0345.jpg

    With just the top panel removed I can get a look into the router area and see what's what.

    IMG_0349.jpg



    IMG_0351.jpg

    The bottom section slides out as a unit. It was made to have a friction fit. Air tight wasn't needed.

    It's made of a back panel with make up air holes, left and right sides and a top that is cut out in the profile of the router lift.

    IMG_0350.jpg

    Thanks for looking!

    -Mike

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Spokane Valley, WA
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    225
    Really, REALLY nice! Pls stand by for a PM, Mike, in the next couple of days. I'm nearing a first router table and I'd like to get some insights.

    Regards,

    Marty
    "Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity" - anon

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Chicago Suburbs
    Posts
    200
    Charles & Dennis - Thanks guys. I had a long time to think about what I would have done differently. It's far from perfect but the evolution is in the right direction for me.

    Marty - Looking forward to hearing from you.

    -Mike

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Spokane Valley, WA
    Posts
    225
    OK, Hi Mike. Sorry, took longer to get back to you on this than I thought. (I'm taking a class and my middle-age brain absorbs more slowly than it used to.)

    I decided to just post here in case anyone else is interested. Two questions, please:

    1. Did you determine the size and number of intake holes for the under-table dust collection by calculation, trial and error, or did you just choose and go for it? Seems to me that might make a difference based on how powerful your dust collection system is, but I'm not sure.

    2. From the photos - looks like you used a 4" hose up to the dust port in the fence. Did you find you needed the extra capacity up top, or did you just use what you had on hand? I ask 'cause most fences I've seen have 2-1/2" ports.

    3. Who makes the on-off switch you used? I've been googling, found about a half-dozen but nothing like you show. (I'm not super picky on that detail, just curious.)

    Still think you did a great job - darn nice work!

    Thanks, regards,

    Marty
    "Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity" - anon

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Spokane Valley, WA
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    225
    Oh, and I forgot - how do you get at the router motor for changing speeds (or do you need to do so vey often? Through the lower panel (with the air intake holes) on the back, I presume?

    Thanks!

    Marty
    "Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity" - anon

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Chicago Suburbs
    Posts
    200
    Hi Marty,

    Thanks for the great questions.

    Size of air intake holes: I agree with your theory that the force of your dust collection should be considered in the size of the intakes. In my case, I started with the number and size of the holes I put in the door of my first router table. That was a "pull through" design where air came in the front and was sucked out the back. Since I was creating a less direct path for the air in the back of the new table I wanted to make them larger. Due to the flexible design (removable) of the air intake I knew I could easily change this if needed. So far it's been working great. After quite a bit of routing on a pair of bookcases I'm making there is very little dust in there.

    Fence dust collection: The fitting that connects to the fence is indeed 2.5". I've used a 2.5" to 4" adapter since building the original table. The "through the fence" collection has worked very well with the 4" hose so I didn't "fix" it on the new table.

    On/Off Switch: I looked around at the various options and finally decided on this one that I purchased from PeachTree USA Woodworking (ptreeusa.com). It's found in the Router Accessories section and it's called a "Safety Power Tool Switch". Item # 3323.

    Changing the Router Speed: This is really why I made the air intake section removable. I find that I rarely ever use a bit that is so big that I need to change the speed. But when needed, I remove the air intake and reach in make the change.

    Thanks again for the nice words on my table. Good luck on yours!

    -Mike

    Quote Originally Posted by Marty Gulseth View Post
    OK, Hi Mike. Sorry, took longer to get back to you on this than I thought. (I'm taking a class and my middle-age brain absorbs more slowly than it used to.)

    I decided to just post here in case anyone else is interested. Two questions, please:

    1. Did you determine the size and number of intake holes for the under-table dust collection by calculation, trial and error, or did you just choose and go for it? Seems to me that might make a difference based on how powerful your dust collection system is, but I'm not sure.

    2. From the photos - looks like you used a 4" hose up to the dust port in the fence. Did you find you needed the extra capacity up top, or did you just use what you had on hand? I ask 'cause most fences I've seen have 2-1/2" ports.

    3. Who makes the on-off switch you used? I've been googling, found about a half-dozen but nothing like you show. (I'm not super picky on that detail, just curious.)

    Still think you did a great job - darn nice work!

    Thanks, regards,

    Marty

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
    Posts
    5,565
    Very well thought out Mike. It looks great, and works better than the old one. Great combination.

    Rick Potter

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