The best way to clean a saw while keeping the etch intact?

[Bill Horvath]

Hi
I have been restoring old hand saws as of late that aren't of much value and I have used a few different methods for cleaning saw blades with mixed results. I have come across a Disston saw that I have never seen before and want to keep the etching on the blade as best as I can. What methods have worked for everyone?

Thanks

[David Weaver]

Hard wood block with wet and dry wrapped tightly to it. And keep the surface clean of abrasive and metal swarf as you do it. Literally, the swarf that's floating around from sanding the saw can take the etch off.

Even if you only work the etch with the wood block and the wet and dry paper, you can feather the finish in with the rest of the saw plate later.

[Bill Horvath]

I will most likely do the whole thing this way as I believe there is a ruler etched into the top of the saw blade. What grit papers would be best?

[maximillian arango]

I'm subbing in to this thread since I'm about to embark on the same journey.

Would dropping it in vinegar be to aggressive?

[Maurice Ungaro]

Best trick I've come across is to use Flitz metal polish with aluminum foil. Very non abrasive, but very effective.

[David Weaver]

I will most likely do the whole thing this way as I believe there is a ruler etched into the top of the saw blade. What grit papers would be best?

Depends on the saw. I usually start with 220, and if 220 doesn't get out whatever is in the saw, then I leave any pitting too deep on the saw instead of trying to sand the saw to death. 220, IME is still a risk to remove the etch, though, so I usually work that away from the etch.

If I had a saw with no rust on, I don't do anything at all (i.e., I wouldn't remove a patina to make the saw plate bright).

[James Taglienti]

I take the handle off, spray the saw with wd40, and slice the rust off the plate with a razor. If the edge of the razor gets dinged it can scratch the plate, so I toss them as soon as they start to full, or hit a rough patch. Then I sand it just like mr weaver.

[David Weaver]

I do the same jim, except with a chisel that's had the corners rounded off (if the corners are left on it, the effects on the saw plate are pretty obvious).

One of the benefits to having a bunch of chisels of the same size around ... you can do whatever you want with one (strip rust, clean caked on abrasive swarf off of something) and the worst you'll have to do is resharpen it.

[Mike Allen1010]

1) soak in evaporust.
2) Scrap w/ chisel or razor blade.
3) Sand with hard block. This is hard messy work. I try to start / nothing coarser than 220 unless rust is really bad - once U start w abrasive U are committed to going through the grists to remove the scratches of previouuus grits.
4) Smooth and slick plate is the goal if U can sharpen and set to tight tolerances. Otherwise don't bother if U can,t set to tight tolerences, a super smooth plate is morre cosmetic than functional.

5) Pitting on the the plate is over rated. Get the rest right and pitting is just cosmetic'
Cheers, Mike

[jamie shard]

Pitting is actually "speed pits" for reduced friction and faster sawing. Very rare and desireable!

[Maurice Ungaro]

Pitting is actually "speed pits" for reduced friction and faster sawing. Very rare and desireable!

Up! You can even fill those pits with mutton tallow for the ultimate in frictionless sawing!

[Jim Matthews]

I use the Sandflex block, after scraping with a paint scraper.

It's amazing how much rust just jumps off, passing metal on metal.
It might be the only time I still use my card scraper.

http://www.theruststore.com/Sandflex...ack-P11C7.aspx

I spray on a little window cleaner, over the etch.
It doesn't make things easier, but I can see where the markings end.

Frank Brickhouse has a comprehensive guide that I follow.
Know this, at the onset - you can't restore every etch - some are just too far gone.

http://www.wkfinetools.com/trestore/...k/sawRest1.asp

[Steve Voigt]

One of the benefits to having a bunch of chisels of the same size around ... you can do whatever you want with one (strip rust, clean caked on abrasive swarf off of something) and the worst you'll have to do is resharpen it.

Don't forget opening paint cans!

[maximillian arango]

I'm just about to restore and sharpen my saws and ran into this 5 minutes ago. I know you are trying to avoid damaging the etching but enhancing it is another option.

Just thought I would share if someone hasn't seen this.

[James Taglienti]

I do the same jim, except with a chisel that's had the corners rounded off (if the corners are left on it, the effects on the saw plate are pretty obvious).

One of the benefits to having a bunch of chisels of the same size around ... you can do whatever you want with one (strip rust, clean caked on abrasive swarf off of something) and the worst you'll have to do is resharpen it.

I have a 1" chisel with the edge ground almost square it works well and is a little less aggressive than the razors too