Unique round over corner piece...

[Michael Dunn]

Hey guys!

How would you go about making this roundover corner piece? I can't tell from the pic if the inside has a radius to it or if it's square.

What would you do? Besides CNC.

[John Downey]

Start with a square piece, cut the inside cove (there is one), assemble the panels with the corner piece, then do the outside round over. There are more ways of approaching the problem, but that would be my first shot.

[Michael Dunn]

Ok. A cove bit for the inside and a round over bit for the outside. What about the bullnose on the end grain? That's seems like a dangerous profile to route.

[John A langley]

How about turning a full circle on a lathe then quartering

[John A langley]

Oops that won't work

[Roger Rayburn]

If I had to do it but only needed a few, I'd tackle it with rasps, files and sandpaper. You could probably knock out a half dozen in the time it would date to figure out a different method. Those on who's shoulders we stand probably did this with gouges and wood chips to burnish the part.

If you start with an over long piece, you have places to clamp while you work on the part you are going to keep.

[Loren Woirhaye]

You might consider bullnosing the whole case on a large router table after assembly. With a steady hand you could do it topside, but such cuts are nerve wracking and easy to screw up. I would probably use hand tools as suggested above.

[Max Neu]

I would just go to the local hardware store and buy a 90 degree PVC elbow and veneer it! Just kidding

[Mark Wooden]

What is that, a frame? How big is it?

I'd reinforce it from the inside corner with a spline first, then probably use a router because the inside corner looks too tight to make the cut with a shaper.

[Michael Dunn]

What is that, a frame? How big is it? I'd reinforce it from the inside corner with a spline first, then probably use a router because the inside corner looks too tight to make the cut with a shaper.

It's a cabinet. A media console of sorts. Roughly 36"Wx34"Hx24"D. The piece with the radii is a corner joint that holds the sides to the top and bottom. Decorating yet structural.

[Prashun Patel]

Assuming you don't have a shaper...

Sorry, this pic is rotated.

You can make a series of passes on the tablesaw or (safer=better) the bandsaw, and then the jointer to get close. Then you can use a handplane or ROS to true up the curve.

You will get remarkable symmetry because you can set the fence/angle once for cut 1, and then flipping and rotating for cut 2. Cuts 3 and 4 will require you to have wide enough stock.

Honestly, you could probably get close enough by making a single 45 degree cut appropriately, and then shaving it true after glue up (the facets will assist in clamping).

[John Downey]

Do the bullnose with a roundover bit too. Or just use a good rasp if you're just doing a few. I like the idea of planing the outside curve too, that would kinda suck to rout and wouldn't be a lot of fun to put up on the shaper either.

I hate to say it, but it sure looks like 1980's library furniture to me.... if you make something with this detail, just stay away from red oak! I have the image of old Chinese stuff with details like that, so a dark wood might look quite good. JMHO, they do vary of course.

[Pat Barry]

It's a cabinet. A media console of sorts. Roughly 36"Wx34"Hx24"D. The piece with the radii is a corner joint that holds the sides to the top and bottom. Decorating yet structural.

So Michael, 1) the thickness of the parts with this curved treatment - would you say they are 1" thick, or 3/4" or what dimension? Is there a standard router bit that would give that profile? 2) any idea why the vertical element (side)has a gap where it attaches to the corner piece? The horizontal (top) does not have this gap - the top looks to be glued to the corner but the side doesn't appear to be.

[Mark Bolton]

Shaper/molder - then router - then sand paper

PS, cant be certain from the pic but looks like cross grain situation.. uh oh, flash backs... :-)