Bill, Im not teasing when I say this - use 2 magnets, separated by an inch or so. Not great, but it should work. I had to do something similar on a project of mine and the second one made a noticable difference.
Hope it helps!
Fred
Bill, Im not teasing when I say this - use 2 magnets, separated by an inch or so. Not great, but it should work. I had to do something similar on a project of mine and the second one made a noticable difference.
Hope it helps!
Fred
It's too late for these boxes but I make a lot of little boxes like this and I carefully plane my lids so they slide about 90% of the way easily and fiction fit the rest of the way. I usually cut rabbets in the lid and I'll use my shoulder plane to remove material to dial in the fit I want. Basically I leave the last bit of the lid that slides into the groove a little fat.
+1 for KJ Magnetics.
It would take some experimenting, but if there was no tongue on the last two inches (maybe?), then the handle end of the lid would be free to flex up - assuming the lid material is thin and flexible enough. Then it could be made with a small dado that snapped down over the side of the box when the lid was fully closed. You could open it by lifting the flexible end of the lid while sliding the dado clear of the wall. This will require a bit of overhang to get a place to lift. Hmmm. I wonder if you can see what I am trying to explain. I've never done this, but have made a variety of flexible wood drawer catches along the same theme.
Sweet Domino's & Boxes !
got a link to those Rockler templates ?
Mike >............................................/ Maybe I'm doing this Babysitting Gig to throw off the Authorities \................................................<
Would a strip of velco, at the closed end of the rabbet work?
It's mechanical, but easily applied with scissors and glue.
It would be impervious to seasonal changes, to boot...
http://www.velcro.com/Products/Adhes...x#.Uvt8BvldVIo
Nice looking boxes.
What about placing a thin, self-adhesive backed, poly tape in the rear end groove/slot to narrow the space? Or, add to the thickness of the tongue at the read end. The lid will be held in place when it is full closed; otherwise, it will slide freely.
Edit: Sorry, didn't see that I was at the end of the thread and all has already been suggested.
Last edited by Daniel Moore; 02-12-2014 at 10:11 AM.
Ya gotta just LOOOOOVE Amazon and Mr. Bezos...
$10.57 for a $2.97 item... ain't capitalism great.
And he treats the people who get it out of the box in an enormous warehouse like slaves...
Yes, they work great. I have used a bigger (in diameter) version of them for some boxes I made. The end with the ball detent was thicker, of course, 3/4" as I recall. I explained away the thick end by doing some fluting on it "to make it look nice..."
The judges bought it... and I won a prize, which was all that counted.
Last edited by Edward Oleen; 02-15-2014 at 2:55 PM.
Bill,
Gorgeous work!
I've used these before; http://www.brusso.com/bc-263/
They've worked nicely in situations where I did not want visible hardware.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
I cut a circular button from hardwood. abut 3/8" thick and an inch or so in diameter. drill a hold offset from the center. This gives a cam action. Attach to the face of the sliding lid box so that the button when rotated up, prevents the lid from sliding out. When rotated down it is out of the way of the box lid which can then be slid out to open the box. The button is attached with a screw. You can use a fiber, leather, or similar washer if needed to provide a good friction fit to keep the button tight.
Enjoy,
Tim
You could search LeeValley for bullet catches, they are unobtrusive and designed for this kind of application.