Engraving Odd Shaped Items - Ways to?

[Bill Stearns]

Hi All -
I have a job to engrave 6,500 knives! (plus, I'm always being asked to engrave "odd" shaped metal items.) For one-at-at-time engraving, I've used kids PlayDoe to create a mold - but, not practical for engraving large quantities. (earlier, someone said they use clay 'n the same way.) I've created a magnetic "board" for holding several items at one time (12" x 24" bed size.) - works okay. My question: is there any such thing on the market, I'm missing, as a device that holds multiple metal objects securely for engraving? If you do large quantities of items - I'd be interesting in learning how you go 'bout it. (Can't be the only one with this problem, can I?)
Looking forward to advice 'n suggestions -

Thanks,
Bill

[Dan Hintz]

Someone recently suggested using one of those magnetic knife bars (for hanging knives on the wall). Put a few of those on your table, cover with painter's tape, then engrave the knife outline into the tape for placement.

That said, for 6.5k knives, I'd consider making a more permanent holder... maybe a few layers of 1/16" acrylic with small magnets in the right spots.

[Gary Hair]

I use a lot of foam core, it's 1/4" thick, has what I have been told is a clay-based outer layer and a foam core. It cuts really well, is fairly inexpensive and is fairly durable. You should be able to find it at most any art supply store - about $4.00 to $6.00 per 32" x 20" sheet.

[Joe Pelonio]

I just trace and scan, convert to vector, double or more copies to fill the 12x24" area, and cut it out on plain old cardboard, as in used box, that I keep in place with masking tape around the edges. If you can make the cuts slightly smaller the items have to be pushed into place and will remain nicely without moving. The tricky part is they all have to be pushed in to the same depth and bottom out or your focus will be off on some of them.

[Henri Sallinen]

legojig.jpg
This is how I handled my knive engraving. Just taped the jig to my laser, used the x / y cordinates to determine the center of the engravable logo and aligned corel with the cordinates. Worked flawlessly. You could make many of these kinds of jigs for multiple engravings + you get to play with Legos!

[Mike Troncalli]

I use a lot of foam core, it's 1/4" thick, has what I have been told is a clay-based outer layer and a foam core. It cuts really well, is fairly inexpensive and is fairly durable. You should be able to find it at most any art supply store - about $4.00 to $6.00 per 32" x 20" sheet.

Same here.. Easy to work, inexpensive and durable.

I engraved hundreds of pen blanks and flat top bottle stoppers. I have foam board templates that have held up over a year with no wear.

[Jim Beachler]

I have never done an order that large. What I have done is to use my CNC to carve the shape on the product with varying depths if needed into a piece of 3/4" MDF. I was able to use this jig hundreds of time for the order that I had. Still have the jig in case they order again.

[Bill Cunningham]

|i've done large orders of knives in the past. I put one on the scanner, then hairline trace around the outside of the image in Corel, I cut one out of 3/16 acrylic and check to see if the knife fits in the cutout securely, and make any needed adjustments to the cutout. When it's perfect, and the knife drops into it and has virtually no movement, I duplicate it as many times as will fit, and cut the whole template pattern. The pattern in the acrylic matches the one on screen, so I just cermark them if their metal, drop the knives into the cutouts, and etch the knives as needed.. Acrylic is tough enough to do thousands of knives without wearing out..

[brian saban]

I find cutting the contours in 6mm EVA foam the easiest way