Table Saw Kick Back Almost Got Hurt Yesterday A Safety Reminder

[Chris Fournier]

TS Pusher.jpgI make this sort of push "stick" all the time in my shop, the thickness and dimensions depend on the job at hand - 0.125" MDF to 0.5" baltic birch. I don't like the stick type sticks because they have minimal contact with the workpiece. The type of pusher shown applies forward and lots of stable downward pressure. I put my baby finger through the hole shown and grip the top edge.

Kept me safe for many years.

[Jim Matthews]

This is nonsense. A tablesaw is just fine for small work, it must simply be properly set up to do so and the appropriate stock holding and guidance devices must be made. Before the advent of laser cutters all architectural models were made using the TS. The pieces they cut for their scale models were often very small and cut in great numbers. Worked for them. Works for me as a guitar builder making small pieces for rosettes and will work for anyone else who sets themselves up for success.

Perhaps you might elaborate on the method to safely handle smaller stock.
I've seen one too many ejections of small offcuts that were trapped against the fence.

The mechanics of the blade, spinning toward the user, are unforgiving of alignment errors.

[Sam Murdoch]

I've seen one too many ejections of small offcuts that were trapped against the fence.

Absolutely - trapping small pieces between the fence and the blade is all about trouble. One of my TS rules is to never pass a piece between the fence and the saw blade that is so small/short that at any point it will be ONLY between the blade and the fence. You can't make such a rule then be casual about breaking it.

Some small stock cutting can be more safely done using the 1/2 fence as in a Euro TS or using the Unifence that can be pulled back behind the blade works well too. Otherwise work without a fence and off a sliding table that fully supports the work and its cutoffs. Just a few ideas...

[Chris Fournier]

I used to use a cross cut carriage to help cut tiny pieces safely. I use a vacuum to suck up small off cuts and then retreive them from the bin. I index cross cuts on a short fence that doesn't actually go all the way to the blade portion of the table so the off cut is actually free once cut.

I didn't invent any of these techniques. I would never say that a TS isn't appropriate for small scale work because it is very appropriate for this kind of work. If I think that an operation is going to be potentially dangerous I stop and figure out how to make it safe. It may take me a day or two to figure it out if it is complicated -I ain't that clever! It may invlove some serious fixture building and I never begrudge the time it takes to make the cut I want safely.

The TS is only dangerous if you use it like a victim. If instead you use it like the tool that it is with the properties that it has, using foresight and cool logic you can do very small or very large operations with it safely for an entire lifetime.

If you approach the TS with either ignorance or fear then you are indeed in trouble, both approaches will likely get you hurt. Understand the machine and it is no more dangerous than your car.

[Chris Parks]

Perhaps you might elaborate on the method to safely handle smaller stock.
I've seen one too many ejections of small offcuts that were trapped against the fence.

The mechanics of the blade, spinning toward the user, are unforgiving of alignment errors.

That is exactly why a European style half fence makes it safe to cut small bits, the trapping cannot happen. There seems to be a mentality with TS users that prevents them using it. With a bit of imagination a sliding version could be made as on a Hammer slider. Can someone tell me a good reason not to use the idea? A Saw Stop prevents hands injury and was long overdue but someone mentioned in these forums recently that kickback was a bigger problem than direct hand injury.

[John Downey]

I've seen one too many ejections of small offcuts that were trapped against the fence.

Why set up a cut where the offcut will be trapped against the fence? The piece between the fence and the blade should always be the piece being pushed - anything else is begging for trouble.

[Ole Anderson]

As stated, a sled is a safe way to handle small pieces on a table saw. If you have ever seen a David Marks video, you will see him use an eraser on a pencil to hold small pieces in place while using a sled. I learned my lesson to never use the fence when cutting short pieces.

[Chris Parks]

As stated, a sled is a safe way to handle small pieces on a table saw. If you have ever seen a David Marks video, you will see him use an eraser on a pencil to hold small pieces in place while using a sled. I learned my lesson to never use the fence when cutting short pieces.

It is very safe to do so with a half fence and without the complication of building a sled. I have cut hundreds of short bits with no issue on a conventional TS. The trapping is impossible when a half fence is used but it seems that people are deaf out there and deserve to encounter kick back. I had thoughts of designing a half fence for a conventional TS but I have abandoned the idea because I am sure it would not sell.

[John Downey]

The trapping is impossible when a half fence is used but it seems that people are deaf out there and deserve to encounter kick back.

You are correct that the half fence is a very safe set up, however no one deserves an accident. The kick back they may or may not experience is indeed avoidable, and they bear the responsibility for it's happening, but they do not deserve it.

[Pat Barry]

You are correct that the half fence is a very safe set up, however no one deserves an accident. The kick back they may or may not experience is indeed avoidable, and they bear the responsibility for it's happening, but they do not deserve it.

The half fence idea may be an improvement but I question if there isn't a better way. I would be concerned with the half fence for exactly the same reason that some here are touting its mertis. For example, because the piece is not well supported, as the remaining piece to be cut becomes small, the longer piece is free to move behind the half fence. This could lead to a dangerous situation wherein you try to correct the cut and expose yourself to a bigger hazard.

My fence is not perfectly parallel to the blade. It actually diverges slightly at the back, thereby creates a bit of space for the cut piece so it doesn't tend to bind up. Does anyone else do this?

I try to use my sled for all small part cutting. I always use a push stick that allows me to push from the back and put downward pressure on a significant portion of the piece I am cutting. Kiinda similar to the idea Chris illustrated above.