Best bang for the buck router for a table?

[Greg Hines, MD]

I use a Porter-Cable 890 plunge base in my router table, and have the fixed base for hand held use if I ever need that, though I have a 690 that I use for most of that. I like the fact that with two extra clearance holes in the base, you can adjust the height of the bit through the table with a little wrench they sell for that purpose. It is a 2 1/4hp router, so not quite the torque of a 3 1/2hp, but for what I do, it has never given me any troubles. For bits, most of mine are from Woodcraft, purchased during their $5 router bit sales several years ago, and for most of them, they have worked well. I also have some Whiteside spiral bits that I use almost exclusively when I need a straight bit, and some of the Freud Quadra-cut profiles for roundovers and ogees.

[Keith Hankins]

Save your money a little while longer and get the PC7518. It's a monster and will handle what ever you throw at it. I've had mine for close to 10 years and not an issue. If you get a lift just buy the motor and save a few $$

[Dave Anthony]

I have the Triton in a router table and like it a lot, much more than the Bosch 1617 w/a Jess-em lift. You need to take out the spring in the Triton when using it in a table, easy height adjustment & bit changes. I like Whiteside router bits. Kinda spendy, but well made & last a long time.

[Peter Quinn]

Pound for pound the best router in its class is the Porter Cable 690. The main stay of all shops. Every fixture known to wood working was designed around this router. I still use the first one I bought over 25 years ago.

I used the Tr12 in a router table and hated it. Great powerful router. Best suited for swinging big bits. The spring is way too strong and the slide doesn't move so well for fine adjustments. Which is what you need in a table.

Don

See how opinions can vary....I'd agree that the PC 690 is the best router in its class....just that its in the lowest class of routers I can think of. The base design is for carpenters, its at least 40 years old, and its crude by todays standards. The motor is great, just keeps spinning. But try to sneak up on a precise fit, need to bump it just .010" and its anything but brand new, perfectly clean and well lubricated...good luck. Up a little, down a little, up a little, down a little......what is that silly ring thing with all the numbers for? It spins but does almost nothing most of the time, you unclamp the motor clamp and the thing drops. If I had only used one, I'd think I used a poor example. But I've used dozens in at least four different shops over several decades, some old beaters, some almost new....and they all work about the same IME. If I'm freehand flush trimming a bunch of stuff, or running a pattern but, or some set it and forget it profile, I'll reach for the 690, but if its a lot of set ups and more complicated/precise, I'm going for a bosch 1617 or similar. Bigger hole in the plate too. I never liked the 1617 in the table much, I tried that set up, seemed to get dust in the bearings and switch and lead to lots of poor performance.

[Kevin Womer]

I have the Triton in a router table and like it a lot, much more than the Bosch 1617 w/a Jess-em lift. You need to take out the spring in the Triton when using it in a table, easy height adjustment & bit changes. I like Whiteside router bits. Kinda spendy, but well made & last a long time.

Yep, what Dave said, no need to buy a lift, above table adjustment and bit changes with a single wrench, pretty well designed router for table use.

[Judson Green]

And it really loud!

Much louder that my equivalent size Hitachi.

And the PC has no soft start.

[Michael Yadfar]

Sorry to sound like such an amateur, but is a router lift required for router tables? It's something I never considered that I see a few people making mention of

[Stan Mitchell]

Sorry to sound like such an amateur, but is a router lift required for router tables? It's something I never considered that I see a few people making mention of

Not required if you buy the right router - but a joy to have in the long run.

[glenn bradley]

Sorry to sound like such an amateur, but is a router lift required for router tables? It's something I never considered that I see a few people making mention of

Not required but, nice to have. The router for the table, like many tools, can develop a preference born of experience. Again, like many tools, what one likes or dislikes depends on many things; a good starting place is budget. In the $200 t0 $300 range, the larger Triton will give you lift-like features and a lot of soft-start power. In the $300 to $400 range the Milwaukee 5625 is an above the table adjustable locomotive with soft start, variable speed and electronic feedback for constant torque under load delivering a very smooth cutting experience.

The Porter Cable 7518 is another favorite in this class with lots of power, 5 speeds and a loyal band of followers. Unlike the Triton, neither of these impressive monsters will allow easy above the table bit changes without a lift. There are also Bosch and Milwaukee combos that have above the table features in a lower powered router at a reduced cost. There are just so many to choose from now that many folks have a favorite.

The same goes for router bits. Just as with any cutter, most of the time the better materials command a higher price. There are some that seem to charge for the name but, Whiteside bits win the bake-offs, are reasonably priced and are made in America. Lee Valley and Woodtek came in 2nd and 3rd in one test but, I have had good luck with Freud which came in farther down the ratings and CMT rated a little higher although they have given short service life for me(?). I imagine once you reach a certain level of quality, your use comes into play.

I mention the personal preference effect with routers so just to be fair, I have a crowd of Milwaukees having sent most other brands to good homes. I have a host of bits that I will pick up whenever I stumble across a good price but, if I require a certain bit, I don't wait around; I just order it from Whiteside.

[Jery Madigan]

Too bad you didn't post this two weeks ago. I just sold a Bosch 1619 for $145 on craigs and a matching Router Raizer on ebay for $66. Bosch was in great shape and the Raizer was new, unused.

[Don Huffer]

See how opinions can vary....I'd agree that the PC 690 is the best router in its class....just that its in the lowest class of routers I can think of. The base design is for carpenters, its at least 40 years old, and its crude by todays standards. The motor is great, just keeps spinning. But try to sneak up on a precise fit, need to bump it just .010" and its anything but brand new, perfectly clean and well lubricated...good luck. Up a little, down a little, up a little, down a little......what is that silly ring thing with all the numbers for? It spins but does almost nothing most of the time, you unclamp the motor clamp and the thing drops. If I had only used one, I'd think I used a poor example. But I've used dozens in at least four different shops over several decades, some old beaters, some almost new....and they all work about the same IME. If I'm freehand flush trimming a bunch of stuff, or running a pattern but, or some set it and forget it profile, I'll reach for the 690, but if its a lot of set ups and more complicated/precise, I'm going for a bosch 1617 or similar. Bigger hole in the plate too. I never liked the 1617 in the table much, I tried that set up, seemed to get dust in the bearings and switch and lead to lots of poor performance.

With all due respect. Your sadly mistaken. I figured you didn't know much about the router when you described the height adjuster as a silly ring thing. Sorry you don't know how to use it. It works quite well and will allow micro adjustments. In 30 years I have never had the problems you have described.

Ever pick up a Fine Woodworking magazine? The 690 is the router in 99.9% of their articles. All after market fixtures are designed to fit this router first.

[Don Huffer]

And it really loud!

Much louder that my equivalent size Hitachi.

And the PC has no soft start.

They have a new router with soft start. They also had the first soft start router on the market. I don't know the model but it came out 30 years ago and they still sell it today.

[Jim Rimmer]

Yep, what Dave said, no need to buy a lift, above table adjustment and bit changes with a single wrench, pretty well designed router for table use.

I agree with these guys. I have a Triton in my router table and love it. And to answer your later question about a lift being required - no they are not but if you combine what you would pay for a good quality router and a lift, the Triton is a bargain and once you have a lift you will love it. Advantages: 1. easy height adjustments; no bending and stooping and reaching under the table to make height adjustments; 2. you don't have to remove the router from the table to change bits.

[Jon Nuckles]

I own a PC690 and like it, but it is definitely not the best choice for a router table. Without variable speed, you really shouldn't use wide bits. The PC7518 is much more powerful, has variable speed and a soft start. If you want to go with Porter Cable, you really want the 7518.

[Rick Moyer]

I have the Milwaukee 5625 in the table most of the time and it's a real horse, but keep in mind that large routers may only have a 1/2" collet, thereby making your 1/4 bits useless. I would suggest getting a combo kit ( I have the Bosch, but DeWalt or Porter Cable would be fine, to) which should give you both collets and likely two bases. That would be your best bang for your buck in my opinion. Despite some strong opinions presented, I don't feel there is one go-to router that's a must have. I started with an old Sears (same ring as mentioned on the PC), later purchased the Bosch kit, later added an undermount table base for it, then eventually got the big Milwaukee. I also have a small trim router. Recently I made a small clamp-on table and mounted the extra Bosch base to it so I can keep the Milwaukee in the bigger table. Usually have the 1/4" collet in the Bosch and the Milwaukee has a 1/2". I swap the Bosch motor into the other bases as need for free-hand routing. Get a kit, you'll have all you need for a while.

Of the bits I've used I would put them in this order of liking the most:
Whiteside
Freud
CMT
Bosch
(other junkier bits)
with Whiteside easily being my favorite, but relatively expensive. I try to have the basics covered with the Whitesides (still working on this), and fill in as needed with less pricey for limited use profiles.