Best bang for the buck router for a table?

[Michael Yadfar]

I plan to build my own router table, and I would use it pretty regularly. I don't need anything too beefy though, because it's only my own little shop for personal projects. But I'm wondering what kind of routers you folks would recommend looking, and if there's any you would recommend staying away from you can say that too. I want something that can fit decently into my low budget, but at the same time not be a piece of junk either. There was a woodworking website I was on that said the Triton 2HP Router is the best deal for a table router, and it sells for around $200 which I can work with.


Also, sort of as a bonus question, I'm also wondering what brand is best for router bits. I've seen the same bit cost between $5-40 from different brands. To me that sounds like the $5 bit is junk and the $40 one is overpriced, so I'm wondering which brands the best for this.

[scott spencer]

Re: router bit brands, here my 2 cents:

“Good” – MLCS, Woodline, Wood River, Porter Cable, Grizzly (green), Stone Mountain, Hickory, and others represent a decent level of quality, often at good prices. They’re often not much more expensive than the run of the mill, lesser known, lower quality bits, and can give good service for beginners who may be tough on bits, low volume, and non-critical applications. Cuts can be very good with these bits, but I wouldn’t expect them to perform as new for as long as more expensive bits. The carbide tends to be a bit softer, is sharpened to a lesser degree, bearings and steel may not be as high quality, and brazing and overall manufacturing techniques will be less robust than those of the top tier bits. Brands like Skil, Ryobi, Harbor Freight, Craftsman, and others could also arguably fit into this category, but my past experiences with other cutters from these brands has not been good…since there are several other well proven alternatives listed, I’d lean toward those. Some of the Craftsman cutters could be made by Freud, so if you spot one made in Italy, it could be a good bet at the right price….same is true of some Milwaukee bits. Good quality basic sets start in the range of $40.

“Better” – Bosch, CMT, Katana, Price Cutter, Rockler, Amana A.G.E, and Lee Valley, amongst others, represent what I consider to be a step up from the average “good” bits listed above, but tend to perform and cost less than the top tier bits s shown below. It’s a good compromise if you want improved performance and longevity from your bits, or wince at the cost of the premium bits, and/or don’t require the very best available. Grizzly (purple) is another possible candidate for this category too, but I have limited experience with them, and other trusted sources have mentioned that the quality can be hit or miss…I’d be uncomfortable paying more than a bargain price for them.

“Best” – Whiteside, Infinity, Eagle America (made by Whiteside), and Freud Quadra –Cut are the best I’ve used to date …better carbide, better steel, better bearings, better manufacturing, better sharpening, better design, etc., means a better cut, less vibration, and longer life (along with higher cost). The more critical the cut, or the more often the bit will be used, the better the justification for choosing top shelf. Many will consider Amana Tool, Somerfeld, and others to be in this category too, but I haven’t been exposed to all of them. My limited experience with Bosch and CMT bits was favorable, but not exceptional….I’d buy them again on sale, but when the price approaches that of Whiteside or Infinity, I opt for the latter. Basic top tier sets start in the range of $100.

Re: the router - I like the topside features of the Triton....

[Art Mann]

I have gotten great service out of the Hitachi M12V 3-1/4 hp plunge router mounted in a table. I believe the replacement for it is the Hitachi M12VE. There is also a model M12V2. These are among the least expensive of the 3-1/4 hp variable speed routers suitable for table use and will probably serve you well if you can get over their hideous appearance.

[Judson Green]

I have gotten great service out of the Hitachi M12V 3-1/4 hp plunge router mounted in a table. I believe the replacement for it is the Hitachi M12VE. There is also a model M12V2. These are among the least expensive of the 3-1/4 hp variable speed routers suitable for table use and will probably serve you well if you can get over their hideous appearance.

2nd that!

Might want to take the spring out of the the plunge arm.

[Michael Yadfar]

The only turnoff about this product is the name Hitachi. It sounds like something you would find over at harbor freight. But with two woodworkers reccomending this product, it sounds reliable to me, definitely worth a look!

[Ed Falk]

My experience with Hitachi is limited, but I was under the impression that it's a pretty decent brand name. As far as power tools go, American brands such as Porter Cable or Milwaukee have been my favorites. I have a Porter Cable router for my router table.

I wouldn't think a plunge base would be of any use in a router table.

[Judson Green]

This adjuster is the key to making it a good router for a table.

Screenshot_2014-03-02_19-05-41.jpg

[Art Mann]

On the contrary, a plunge base makes it easy to adjust the bit height. Some plunge base routers include provisions for bit height adjustment from above the table. For plunge routers without that feature, there is a retrofit kit available for doing the same thing. It is the fixed base routers that are difficult to adapt to table use.

[james glenn]

I have the Milwaukee 5625 in my router table, and it has been great. Never looses power, offers above the table height adjustment and works great in a lift. It was just on sale at HD, but not sure if it still is.

I would buy again if I needed another.

[Peter Quinn]

I have a pre-orange borg Ryobi plunge router that is very much like the hitachi recommended above. They don't make them anymore, its from an era when ryobi was a creative young industry upstart with great tools at a decent price point. At $200, that hitachi is a deal....lots of bang, not much buck. You could spend a little lless and go for a basic porter cable fixed base or similar in the $120 range, bolt it to a simple table and route away. Then you can also experience the joy of sitting on your knees in the shop reaching under the table trying to adjust one of the worst depth adjustment schemes ever made.....don't get me wrong, the PC routers have great motors and some other nice features, but depth adjustment is crude and fussy, so dialing in a precise set up can be maddening. I have encountered a basic PC router stuffed in a table at every place I've ever worked wood, cheap and effective, especially in a shaper based shop where the router doesn't need to do heavy lifting like panel raising. But they are really best suited to above table work, and frankly set ups that don't require precise adjustments like flush trimming. So take a close look at the hitachi, its a quality brand and a value. My favorite set up is a big PC 7518 in a lift....but thats headed quickly towards $700. Lots of bang....lots of bucks. If you need to spin really big bits, the PC 7518 is unbeatable.

Bits? My favorites are whiteside, infinity, and amana, with freud and cmt coming in just behind. Freud quadra cuts are IME excellent and belong in the top category as well. The differences are subtle, but the best router bits tear out less and leave a bit better surface quality. Might be the carbide, the sharpening, or the shear angles and other geometry. Not sure, but they just work better. I spend on the best when it matters, for solid carbide joinery bits, for cope and stick sets, for complex profiles that would be more difficult to sand. I also have a pile of those green bits from wood craft, they used to blow them out each month, a few different basic profiles, at $5 each. I bought a pile of them, multiples in certain cutters. These work very well, I can't imagine how they sold them so cheaply. Don't know what the price point is now, but they are IMO reasonably good. There are other good brands around, eagle, MLCS come to mind.

A friend gave me a pile of router bits he was given that were basically brand new, came from a Dr who wanted to try wood working but quit the hobby, they were yellow, not sure the brand...cheap chinese junk. I tried a few, wound up throwing them in the scrap bin. Not good, not safe, not acceptable. So there are those sorts of things out there too. Not every $5 router bit is bad, but some are.

[Don Huffer]

Pound for pound the best router in its class is the Porter Cable 690. The main stay of all shops. Every fixture known to wood working was designed around this router. I still use the first one I bought over 25 years ago.

I used the Tr12 in a router table and hated it. Great powerful router. Best suited for swinging big bits. The spring is way too strong and the slide doesn't move so well for fine adjustments. Which is what you need in a table.

Don

[Michael Mahan]

I use a Porter Cable 7518 3 & 1/4 HP multi speed motor only & an Incra router lift
you can get the motor only PC for $254.oo on sale at WoodCraft they post it on sale every 2 months at that price
that fact that I can change bits above the table & adjust bit height with flick of my wrist Priceless
you can add a DRO from Wixley for about $50.oo that makes it a breeze to set up cuts & reduces test cuts to minimum
the fact that I no longer has to bend over to eye ball the bits & not having to get on my knees or bend over to mess with the router under a table setting the height .
saves my back , my knees , my eyes & most importantly saves me time & frustration .

[Rich Engelhardt]

Also, sort of as a bonus question, I'm also wondering what brand is best for router bits. I've seen the same bit cost between $5-40 from different brands. To me that sounds like the $5 bit is junk and the $40 one is overpriced, so I'm wondering which brands the best for this.

Whiteside, Freud and/or Eagle America make the best bits.
Break out your wallet though because they cost dearly.

What you get for your extra $$ are things you can't really see.
They are better balanced, which means the run true and vibrate less @ high RPM.
They have thicker and better carbide - which means they hold an edge better and can be resharpened.

For a little less for more utilitarian uses, I like Bosch. They're ok and priced pretty right.
I bought a 2" top bearing bit to make ZCI plates for my table saw.
I made 10 or 12 inserts with it and IIRC, I paid ~ $25 or $35 for the bit - but - "store bought" inserts from Woodcraft are $23 each so I saved some money.

For real work where removing material is primary and appearance is secondary, MLCS, Skil, Ryobi. (things like rabbets and making circular cut outs)


BTW - the Triton seems to be about the best deal going.
People that own them love them.
I went with a Freud 1700 instead of a Triton because @ the time, Triton was in trouble and looked like they were going under.
Now, years later, Triton is still around and healthy & the Freud line of tools is gone - - -go figure!

[Bill Huber]

I am not sure if I could say it is the best router, I have not used them all, but I have had very good luck with it, the Bosch 1617 EVS 2 1/4 hp.

You can get the motor only for around $160 and then add and FX lift from Rockler which go on sale a lot for $180, right now the lifts are selling for $204.

I had a table with above the table adjustment but I still had to go under the table to unlatch it and then re-latch it. This for me was a real pain in the butt.

I then got the FX left and a different table and I loved it, it is so much better then just using the above table adjustment on a fixed base router.

The Bosch router did everything I ask it to do, raised panels and cabinet doors with no problem, I did take smaller cuts with the panel bit but it still did a great job. The only problem I had with the router, and I think they have fixed it was the dust getting into the switch.

I guess what I am saying is save up a little money if you need to and get a lift, they are great.

[Art Mann]

I never engage and release the clamping mechanism on my M12V when I adjust the height. The combination of the plunge mechanism, spring tension, friction, and gravity keep the height adjustment solid without any other clamping. In fact, I seldom reach beneath the table for any reason. I use the Router Raizer add-on to adjust height, which is less than half the cost of even the cheapest router lift and does exactly the same thing, as far as I can tell. The Router Raizer can be used with most of the high power plunge routers.