Stone a saw?

[steven c newman]

Ok, I have a D-7 Lightweight saw from about 1953 or so. Nice crosscut saw, for around $5. There is one problem with it. It likes to make a right turn while cutting. Then it will bind up in the cut.

Thinking MAYBE run an oil stone along the right side of the teeth? Either with or against the "grain" on the teeth? It is a nice 26" long saw, stamped as an 8 ppi (?) crosscut. IMAG0001.jpgRight about here, it started to bind a bit. Bolts are brass, but the medallion is steel. Does have a decent readable etch. Would like to get it to at least cut straight. IMAG0002.jpg Just a saw....

[David Dalzell]

I have run a stone from toe to heel. It worked for me. I don't know it toe to heel, or heel to toe makes any difference. Do it lightly, try a cut, and run the stone again if needed. Have you checked the blade for straightness?

[David Weaver]

stone or file is fine. Light pressure back to front (in case you have a tooth set wide).

one stroke, try the saw.

Mind the pressure across the toothline so that you do it evenly from front to back.

[Adam Cruea]

stone or file is fine. Light pressure back to front (in case you have a tooth set wide).

one stroke, try the saw.

Mind the pressure across the toothline so that you do it evenly from front to back.

I was just going to say something similar.

The only other suggestion I have is to let the saw's plate weight be the only downforce when stoning the toothline. What I do is set the saw on the stone, then just lift up on the back with the side of a finger or my fingertips, no man-handling) and then just drag the saw a constant, deliberate speed. Works a charm to not make too drastic of a change.

[Kim Malmberg]

Steven,
You are working with fresh pine or spruce on a concrete surface. Is your timber cupped? If you are resting a knee into a cupped surface you will tension the wood and the wood will bind just about any saw, no matter the set.

Another pointer is checking your tooth line. Is your saw plate straight? Hold the saw upside down with the teeth facing you and sight along the blade. Do you see a straight line or a curve? If your plate is straight and your timber isn't cupped, check your set. Do you have more set to one side? If not, does the edges of the plate feel inconsistent? If you have filed more aggressively on one side you will feel more of a burr on the more aggressive side.

[steven c newman]

Treated 2x10. Just sat it on the porch to cut. Foot was the clamp. Tooth line is straight, and so is the plate. Set Might be a bit too much. There is a lot of set to the saw, as bought. Haven't got around to sharpening it, yet. Was trying to see how it cuts, then decide on a sharpening. Wasn't much, if any cup. Just bought that board the day before. There is some cup, now, but the Tapcons seem to be holding things done...Middle step needed an add-on tread to make it easier to go up and down from the porch.