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Rabbit RL_XX_6040-60 watt Laser engraving/cutting machine Oh wait its a 3D Printer my bad LOL
Lasercut 5.3
CorelDraw X5
10" Miter Saw with slide
10" Table Saw
8" bench mount 5 speed Drill Press
Dremel, 3x21 Belt Sander
It's just something I found I was good at Mike, I never use it or do any of it these days
cheers
Dave
You did what !
Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )
Trotec 80W Speedy 300 laser w/everything
CAMaster Stinger CNC (25" x 36" x 5")
USCutter 24" LaserPoint Vinyl Cutter
Jet JWBS-18QT-3 18", 3HP bandsaw
Robust Beauty 25"x52" wood lathe w/everything
Jet BD-920W 9"x20" metal lathe
Delta 18-900L 18" drill press
Flame Polisher (ooooh, FIRE!)
Freeware: InkScape, Paint.NET, DoubleCAD XT
Paidware: Wacom Intuos4 (Large), CorelDRAW X5
While you're looking that up also look up power clip so that you can shape the checkering.
Mike Null
St. Louis Laser, Inc.
Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
Gravograph IS400
Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
Dye Sublimation
CorelDraw X5, X7
looks like some homework ahead...
Don Corbeil
_________________
Trotec Speedy 300 (80W) w/rotary
CorelDraw Graphics Suite x6
PhotoGrav v.3
AutoCAD 2000i
LOL .. it took me a couple of minutes for that one on the right, but I was
also on the phone at the time.
From a single square .. I'd probably go to Transformations, Position and
move it over the same width as the square and Apply to Duplicate as many
times as I needed to. I know there's better ways, I just don't know them and
that would work. Once I had a whole line of them, then I'd select the whole line
and go down. Power clip to your outline...
Simplest way is just draw the shape you need, and give it a postscript fill as Mike said above..
Here's some rifle stock engravings, one was going on a prize 3030 for a cowboy action group, the other two aren't checkering but serve the same purpose. These were done on a old single shot Mod. 82 Cooey pattern .22, that I bought for $8.00 53 years ago.. Done ten years ago when I was still in the 'nothing sacred' phase of my new laser..
Last edited by Bill Cunningham; 03-13-2014 at 10:49 PM.
Epilog 24TT(somewhere between 35-45 watts), CorelX4, Photograv(the old one, it works!), HotStamping, Pantograph, Vulcanizer, PolymerPlatemaker, Sandblasting Cabinet, and a 30 year collection of Assorted 'Junque'
Every time you make a typo, the errorists win
I Have to think outside the box.. I don't fit in it anymore
Experience is a wonderful thing.
It enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.
Every silver lining has a cloud around it
For giggles, I passed this thread and the cool video of the laser checkering process to my friend who is a gun smith. He was suitably awed by the speed of that laser. He did let me know that a typical rifle stock checkering job would take 8 to 16 hours depending on the skill of the gun smith. How does that compare with your experience Dave Sheldrake? My friend was curious as well since he is new at that and still at the bottom end of the learning curve.
I am also curious how much difficulty you have finding the right settings on a laser to get the 3D pattern done without burning the wood in the process? Cool stuff everyone!!
Dave
900x600 80watt EFR Tube laser from Liaocheng Ray Fine Tech LTD. Also a 900x600 2.5kw spindle CNC from Ray Fine. And my main tool, a well used and loved Jet 1642 Woodlathe with an outboard toolrest that helps me work from 36 inch diameters down to reallllllly tiny stuff.
Dave
In the laser engraving business there's an old woodworking term that you might be familiar with when it comes to power settings on wood items when you don't know what they should be. It's called "sneaking up on it". Just increase the power in increments until you're satisfied.
Don't be intimidated by the idea that you're going to ruin everything you touch. You'll catch on very quickly.
Mike Null
St. Louis Laser, Inc.
Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
Gravograph IS400
Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
Dye Sublimation
CorelDraw X5, X7
Hiya Dave,
8 to 16 hours seems about right depending on the check tools used (and the area required), if it's follow cutters that tends to be quicker but single points take a longggg time and a steady hand.
cheers
Dave
You did what !
Thanks Dave!! He was certainly wowed by the laser doing it in that video. It was cool to watch that. I think he will continue to develop the skill though. He is in IT like me and really enjoys doing hand work when he is not taking mallets to computers and servers. Doing something that is not digital in your off time helps with the sanity! Kind of like my lathe work is for me!
Hope all is well with you!
Dave
900x600 80watt EFR Tube laser from Liaocheng Ray Fine Tech LTD. Also a 900x600 2.5kw spindle CNC from Ray Fine. And my main tool, a well used and loved Jet 1642 Woodlathe with an outboard toolrest that helps me work from 36 inch diameters down to reallllllly tiny stuff.
John, I'm not at my Corel station now, but I believe all you do is select the smart fill tool. One of the options is for patterns, and one of those options is to create one. You have to have the image you want to use already saved and select it. Another, probably easier way to do it would be to take the pattern and copy/past it, then use the power clip tool to get rid of excess. If you just enlarge the original pattern, it will make the scales or diamonds bigger. If you don't want that to happen, you'll have to copy, paste and join the patterns until you get a big enough image to use. I'm sure someone more Corel literate than I could explain it better. Hope this helps. I've been playing with Corel and the laser for almost a year now. Using this thread and a little additional research, I was able to do this in a piece of scrap cherry.20140316_100759 (775x800).jpg Also, I would like to thank every one on the forum, your postings have been a huge help!
Last edited by Bill Munroe; 03-24-2014 at 8:21 PM.
Live Oak Forge
40W Epilog Mini 18
Shopbot 32"x24"x6" PRT
Shopbot 48"x48"x6" PRS
Next Engine Scanner
Artcam
CorelDRAW X5
Multiple and various other implements of destruction
I know it's an old thread but I've just become enamored with CNC woodworking of late. I have a CNC background but it's been many moons since and I've done nothing with lasers but cutout parts from stainless and titanium sheets using a 1KW co2 laser.
Could an add-on laser to a Shapeoko 3 do gunstock checkering of various patterns? I plan on doing exotic hardwoods and would prefer not to burn the wood and still be able to see the underlying grain in most cases, but it would also be nice to have the ability to contrast like Bill Munroe's example above. Am I dreaming or can one get powerful enough laser on a really small router?
This is what I love about this community!! I've been researching how to do a vector fill with cross hatching instead of rastering to speed jobs up and still get the same filled look, so I finally took the plunge and got Corel Draw just this afternoon. I was just googling how to do it and came here and bam, here's my answer. Now onto trying it out and seeing how it works for the application I'm using it for. Anyone use it for vector fill instead of rastering? Please let me know some tips!
Rabbit Laser 36 x 48, 80 watt laser
Full wood shop
Plasma cutting machine, 4' x 4'
Vinyl Cutter