Grizzly Track Saw Questions

[Mark Westerman]

I am looking to get a track saw and have narrowed things down to the two green models, one very expensive, and one not so much. So, I am trying to determine if the Grizzly will work well enough for my needs (small personal shop).

1. There are a few posts that have had some concern that if you run a cut with the bevel gauge set at 90-degrees, and then run a 45-degree bevel cut, that the bottom edge of the anti-splinter strip may be shaved or undercut during this 45-degree cut such that there is no longer a zero clearance condition on further 90-degree cuts.
Has anyone confirmed, with their Grizzly track saw, that after a 45-degree bevel cut, the zero clearance on the anti-splinter strip is maintained on subsequent 90-degree cuts?

2. I have also seen a thread regarding arbor wobble with the Grizzly. This seem like something that would definitely impact cut quality, no matter how good the blade. Has anyone else noticed this wobble?

3. Those of you that have a Grizzly track saw and are using an upscale blade (Freud, Festool, etc.), are you noticing Festool like cut quality? Does the cut with this upscales blade still need additional work such as a touch up with a plane, etc?

4. In a couple of threads, it was noted that some degree of effort was required to lock and unlock the depth stop block to change depth of cut. Is this a common issue"

5. Has anyone had problems with the anti-splinter strip coming un-glued?

6. I would also like to hear from those of you that have had one of these saws (Grizzly, Shop Fox, Sheppach, etc.) for some length of time, how they have held up over this time and if there have been any major durability issues?

Thank you all, in advance, for your time and responses.

[J.R. Rutter]

2. I have also seen a thread regarding arbor wobble with the Grizzly. This seem like something that would definitely impact cut quality, no matter how good the blade. Has anyone else noticed this wobble?

4. In a couple of threads, it was noted that some degree of effort was required to lock and unlock the depth stop block to change depth of cut. Is this a common issue"

5. Has anyone had problems with the anti-splinter strip coming un-glued?

6. I would also like to hear from those of you that have had one of these saws (Grizzly, Shop Fox, Sheppach, etc.) for some length of time, how they have held up over this time and if there have been any major durability issues?

Thank you all, in advance, for your time and responses.

I will give my two cents on the questions that I have experience with.

2. It is not the last word in smooth, but considering the price, isn't too bad. It has been 10 years since I used a Festool plunge saw, so I don't remember well enough to compare the two.

4. The depth stop is calibrated as though the saw is sitting directly on the workpiece, so you have to add on the thickness of the track. It does lock up tight and needs to be wiggled a bit to free it up. If you don't crank down hard on the locking knob, then it isn't as much of an issue.

5. Mine was not fully adhered to the track out of the box, but once I pressed it firmly into place, it has stayed (since Dec 2013).

6. My first project with it was trimming some maple counter tops, which it seemed to do fine with fresh out of the box. Second task was cutting 1/4" plywood with blade projecting 1/16" into mdf backer. The saw died midway through the second cut (hot electrical smell) and got replaced under warranty. The second saw seems to be doing fine, but I'm still just cutting thin sheets with it.

[david brum]

1. There are a few posts that have had some concern that if you run a cut with the bevel gauge set at 90-degrees, and then run a 45-degree bevel cut, that the bottom edge of the anti-splinter strip may be shaved or undercut during this 45-degree cut such that there is no longer a zero clearance condition on further 90-degree cuts.
Has anyone confirmed, with their Grizzly track saw, that after a 45-degree bevel cut, the zero clearance on the anti-splinter strip is maintained on subsequent 90-degree cuts?

I have read the same thing. I haven't ever had reason to make a long bevel cut on my saw, so haven't personally seen it. The same applies when changing blade styles or brands. One thing I do know for sure is that you can unstick the anti-splinter strip and move it over a little bit when it is new. i did that when I changed out the original blade.

2. I have also seen a thread regarding arbor wobble with the Grizzly. This seem like something that would definitely impact cut quality, no matter how good the blade. Has anyone else noticed this wobble?

I had a tiny bit of arbor wobble in mine but I felt the same thing when I examined a Festool saw at Woodcraft. In my case, it definitely doesn't affect tear-out.

3. Those of you that have a Grizzly track saw and are using an upscale blade (Freud, Festool, etc.), are you noticing Festool like cut quality? Does the cut with this upscales blade still need additional work such as a touch up with a plane, etc?

I bought the Oshlun Festool-compatible blade from Amazon. It definitely cuts better than the stock blade, although it looks nearly identical. Next blade I buy will be a Freud thin kerf.

4. In a couple of threads, it was noted that some degree of effort was required to lock and unlock the depth stop block to change depth of cut. Is this a common issue"

I keep the knob for the depth stop lubed. Mine was stiff at first but has broken in nicely.

5. Has anyone had problems with the anti-splinter strip coming un-glued?

Nope, although I could see it coming loose in really hot weather if used outside.

6. I would also like to hear from those of you that have had one of these saws (Grizzly, Shop Fox, Sheppach, etc.) for some length of time, how they have held up over this time and if there have been any major durability issues?

I've had my Grizzly saw for about a year. I don't use it every day, but it has been used pretty hard. I've cut 1 1/2" material with it without problems.

Thank you all, in advance, for your time and responses.

I think these saws are basically fine. I had to tune mine to get (what I consider) good performance. You don't have to do that with the premium saws but you also save a bunch of money if you don't mind doing the work. It's the classic Grizzly vs European trade off.

[Joe Scharle]

I've had one for over a year (Scheppach) and the first one burned up when sizing a ext door, but it was replaced under warranty. I made a couple of mods, first being an Oshlun blade. Cut 1/4" off of the spring and added a spring loaded blade lock. I use mine for cutting down sheet goods and trimming doors, but I'm sure I don't have 10 hours on it yet. I had the same strip problem; just pressed it back into place. Bottom line, I cut my sheet goods to final size and am happy with the saw.

[Patrick Harper]

Have you considered the Makita track saw? I recently purchased mine and I love it. I've used the Festool a few times and I can honestly say that it is every bit as good as the Festool and much cheaper. I haven't heard many positive reviews of the Grizzly. Regarding the Makita, it's very accurate, well-made, and powerful. In fact, its more powerful than the Festool. However, it does not have a riving knife like the Festool. Other than that, I've had no complaints. The depth/angle settings hold well. The track is dead straight. The cuts are very clean. I purchased mine on sale for $320, but you can usually find them for about $400. That's still $185 cheaper than the Festool.