Another Question About Bandsaws

[Jim Koepke]

Now that a few broken blades have accumulated in my shop my curiosity runs to repairing them.

My question is there a small torch available to use for silver soldering.

I recall my dad using an acetylene torch for such.

I would prefer a little less investment yet still have reliability.

jtk

[Michael Mahan]

I think they have to be welded , silver soldering is not as durable as the silver is softer than steel
I'm no expert on this but common sense seems to be the case

[Myk Rian]

They can be silver soldered. Not sure how they hold up though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PICf6iJnSuk

[David Weaver]

Now that a few broken blades have accumulated in my shop my curiosity runs to repairing them.

My question is there a small torch available to use for silver soldering.

I recall my dad using an acetylene torch for such.

I would prefer a little less investment yet still have reliability.

jtk

There are blade welders on CL here once in a great while. I have no clue whether the fact they're there translates to being able to pick one up and actually accomplish welding a blade with it.

[Michael Wildt]

Smith equipment makes some small torches. Like the 'handi-heet' and 'silvers mith'. We do some hobby silversmithing and use the latter one. Its acetelyn and you can get different tips depending on the need. I'd guess regular brazing would hold up for this but that's just a guess.

[Richard Coers]

Propane torch works just fine. I routinely silver solder up to 3/4" blades. You have to sand or grind a long angle on opposite faces so you have a long scarf joint. I use a stationary disc sander and miter gauge to sand the angles. Lots of flux. I cut a little piece of silver solder, and put it on top of the flux. Bring the torch up from underneath. The flux will melt, then fairly quickly followed by the silver solder melting. Let it cool, and I use a little sanding drum in a Dremel to sand it flush. Works like a dream.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

My local welding supply shop will weld them, but...

Usually when a band breaks, its got issues in places other than the break, so generally time to replace it anyhow.

[Charles Coolidge]

Smith equipment makes some small torches. Like the 'handi-heet' and 'silvers mith'. We do some hobby silversmithing and use the latter one. Its acetelyn and you can get different tips depending on the need. I'd guess regular brazing would hold up for this but that's just a guess.

I would love to see a post and some samples on that.

[Brian W Smith]

It depends on why they "broke"?If they're worn out,looking very close for fracture lines disseminating out of the gullets........don't bother.If it's "broke" at the factory weld.....it's most likely an annealing problem.So,you need to be mindful of it's effect on your new joint.Silver soldering works very well,I'm told......we Tig ours.Annealing and grinding joints are just as important as the welding.........you want the grinder "lines" to be in the direction of the blades travel,not across it.

The small Smith torches are an extremely useful pce of "kit" in a shop.We have a big honkin gas axe,haha.........would love to have a sm Smith.The welding tips for our O/A torch,while pretty sm....are giants compared to these precision instruments.I love gas welding.Also,look for some info on Silicon Bronze "Tig rod"....we use it to good effect on a lot of interesting projects.

[Rich Riddle]

I know one of he old woodworking bandsaw units, a Powermatic (model 87) had a welder installed not the bandsaw itself. They must have been there for a reason. You can definitely weld the blades if you have the skill. Seems welding would be preferential to soldering a blade.

Powermatic 87 view:

D9320H.jpg

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I know one of he old woodworking bandsaw units, a Powermatic (model 87) had a welder installed not the bandsaw itself. They must have been there for a reason. You can definitely weld the blades if you have the skill. Seems welding would be preferential to soldering a blade.

Powermatic 87 view:

D9320H.jpg

I've been told those were for welding the loop back together after cutting it to cut interior to something. Like putting a jig saw blade through a hole. I have no idea of the accuracy of that info, but it makes sense.

[Michael Wildt]

Found this one great video on how to do exactly what was questioned. Silver soldering bandsaw blades.

http://youtu.be/mzKSk_Zs0Ew

[Wade Lippman]

I have welded plenty of them, but they get shorter because you have to create matching straight edges. Unless it is a new carbide blade I can't see bothering. I had a nice machine that made everything easy and a bandsaw that had good adjustment for blade length. Without that it would be spitting into the wind.

[Michael Wildt]

I truly wish I had time to do some post on this but currently all the tools for it is packed away since the kids are taking all the spare time. That said if you have specific questions I'd do my best to answer them. While it is my better half that does most of this I'm the tool junky behind it. We've done basic silver bands/rings/necklaces/earings etc. Stone settings as well. Texturing and patina as well. Haven't tried casting yet, but could be fun to try. Feel free to ping me off line.

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks to all for your help.

The video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzKSk_Zs0Ew

looks to be the way to go.

jtk