15" planer table/bed roller removal

[Bob Rankin]

Does anyone know how to remove the table roller from an average 15" planer? I see a bolt on either end of the roller on the side of the casting but when the set screw is loosened and the bolt turned the roller just adjusts up and down, this how you adjust it but how do you remove it? I need to replace a bearing, it just keeps turning around.

[Matt Day]

I'd like to know too! When I overhauled mine, I couldn't for the life of me figure out how they were removed. There must be some trick to capture part of the roller to keep it from turning.

[Gordon Davis]

I did a complete break down awhile back and I remember I had the same issue. I will check my notes and photos and will post later.

[Alan Marchbanks]

Bob,
I would go to Grizzly's site and download one of their 15" planer manuals. It might be very similar to yours.
Alan

[Bob Rankin]

rollers.jpg

They're all identical but it doesn't mention how to remove them.
There doesn't seem to be a way to lock the roller from rotating. I tried using
the set screw on the other end to hold it somewhat, then jamming a wood wedge in
the bed gap to stop the roller but it just broke the wood and I didn't want to
force it more. It didn't seem right.
#4 is the eccentric shaft (hex bolt
end).

[Matt Day]

Thats exactly what i found Bob. I looked at that diagram for quite some time too!

[Larry Palanuk]

I loosened the allen screw on top, and then grabbed onto the spindle. (Item 4 in the picture in post #5) then worried it back and forth while pulling until it finally came out. You might need to soak with penetrating lube. By the way... The bearings for those are the same as what skateboards use, so they are cheap and easy to find.

[Erik Loza]

Idea: What if you jammed a piece of soft leather in between the bed roller and opening in the cast iron table to keep it from turning? Like the finger of a pigskin glove?

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Larry Palanuk]

That wouldn't help since nothing is threaded. The spindle of the eccentric axle (item#4) is supposed to be a close fit into the skateboard bearing inner diameter. The problem may arise that that "close fit" may have rusted into a "pressed fit". That is why you may need penetrating lube.

Idea: What if you jammed a piece of soft leather in between the bed roller and opening in the cast iron table to keep it from turning? Like the finger of a pigskin glove?

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Bob Rankin]

image.jpg
I got the shafts out by banging away using vise grips to hold the bolt end and hammering outward with a small crowbar on the vise grips themselves. They survived. The part that was tight was the eccentric part tightly seated in the bearings. The hard part will be getting it all back together holding the roller in the table and banging the shaft to seat the bearing. I can't do one side out of the table. Not enough clearance.

[Don Burch]

Bob,
You do not say why you need to remove the rollers. If you are doing maintenance and reinstalling the roller, my question my have no answer here.
I recently acquired the Laguna 16" ShearTec and have thought the bed rollers do not seem like a good idea. My thought is, they will always tend to mar the face that is on the table.
Have you noticed any performance difference since removing.

Don

[Bob Rankin]

"my question my have no answer here."
Not sure what you're trying to say here but yes, it was just for a bearing replacement. It's done now, and I do use the rollers just a hair, no sniping "if that's what you mean by maring"

[Don Burch]

The bed on a lunchbox planer is continuously smooth. These larger planners, with more power, have an interrupted bed surface. The down face will be somewhat compressed going over these rollers, thus marred. I guess I am questioning the functionality of these rollers.

Don