Need advice on a new smoothing plane

[Brian Holcombe]

I have a LN #4 in bronze with a 55 degree angle frog. I set the chip breaker tight to the edge and have a very fine hone on the blade and I also set the throat fairly tight but not super tight. Smooths very well, and I generally take a thin cut.

[Jim Matthews]

IMO backlash is not that big of a deal, as is not the ability (or inability rather) to move the frog back and forth with that screw. Most of us (not all) have more than one plane (like 2 #5s) so the frog is set for an operation and pretty much stays there forever. The depth backlash, like I said does not bother me, I do adjust often, but it is not (back and forth back and forth).

As someone mentioned my cheapo fleabay #4 works awesome on most anything./p

If you're constantly adjusting a plane back and forth - yet never shaving off the thickness you're after - it's not really an adjustment.
It's a setting - too coarse or too fine.

A properly adjusted plane will allow you to back off the blade if you're tearing out, or advance the blade if you want to hog off.

That's kind of the point, innit?

[Pedro Reyes]

If you're constantly adjusting a plane back and forth - yet never shaving off the thickness you're after - it's not really an adjustment.
It's a setting - too coarse or too fine.

A properly adjusted plane will allow you to back off the blade if you're tearing out, or advance the blade if you want to hog off.

That's kind of the point, innit?

Can't tell if you are agreeing or disagreeing with me (both OK since I was expressing an opinion). I also don't know if this is semantics misunderstanding.

The frog I don't move once I set it. The depth of cut is set (adjusted) at the beginning of a planing operation, but I don't go back and forth much, and not at all once I find a sweet spot, so it does not bother me if there is a little backlash, that was all I wanted to convey.

/p

[Brian Lefort]

new Stanley #4. Very nice plane, $150.00. I have this, both block planes, and the shoulder plane along with the bevel up jack. all solid tools. Great workers.

[Graham Haydon]

I like my Quangsheng (wood river) #4 and it is fine for smoothing. It would be interesting to contrast your purchase with what you have, i'm not sure you will find it improves things that much if your current planes are in good order. The most pleasing aspect of buying new is not having bits and pieces missing or damaged.

[Pat Barry]

The most pleasing aspect of buying new is not having bits and pieces missing or damaged.

That could be part of it. Plus, I really want to try something new. I do have a new Buck Bros smoother but I rarely use it (actually its probably 15 years old now that I think of it and I still keep it in the original box)

[Bobby O'Neal]

My smoother is a WoodRiver V3 #5. Works like a charm.

[bob blakeborough]

There is likely going to be as many opinions on this as there are on shapening stones. I just got a Veritas bevel up smoother that works really well for me. I know I'm not the only one who likes this plane. Previously I had been using a Record #4 that didn't work so well.

I have many planes, and this one is by far my absolute favourite tool in the shop! I have never run across a piece of gnarly wood it won't tame. If I was told tomorrow I have to get rid of all my planes except one and I could only ever own that one, it would be this plane I kept...

[Pat Barry]

Well first I'd like to thank everyone for their input.
Second admit my discovery that my Bailey plane is actually a #3, not a #4.
My #4 is a HD Buck Brothers that is loose and a PITA to hold and use.
Third - post the results:
40 response total
10 = Stanley / Bailey #4
7 = Stanley / Bailey #3
3 = LN #4
2 = LV SBUS
2 = LV LBUS
2 = other brand # 4 (Record, woodriver)
16 = one vote each for a huge variety including wooden coffin smoothers, Old Street, Norris A5, japanese style smoothers, #603, #604, # 4 1/2, #7, and #8

I am ready to order the LV SBUS or LBUS. I also plan to search the antique stores and flea markets for an old Stanley Bailey #4 and buy a new / upgraded blade for it and the #3 as well.

Thanks again for all your thoughts on this

[paul cottingham]

Just a quick suggestion. If you buy the LV plane, get the one that has the same blade as their jointer and jack. That way you can interchange blades easily, and only buy one each of the toothed or higher angle blades if you ever decide you need them.

[steven c newman]

Before you throw away that Buck Brothers POS plane-like object....REMOVE that iron. That is about the only GOOD thing in those planes. I have one in a Stanley #5 rebuild. Once flat and sharp, really a nice 2" iron. I have sharpened that iron twice in over a year's worth of work. Almost like a 14" long smooth plane.

While some will say get the extra irons for those fancy planes, as they fit several others, remember, you would also have to BUY those other planes, with their irons, too. With those Buck Brother irons ($3 @ HD) one can buy a nice group 9 clean off the hook on that shelf) and grind each just a little different. Maybe a straight edged one, one with just the corners knocked back, one with a slight camber, and another with a big, honking camber. 2" irons will fit both the #4s and the #5s out there. Save the chip breaker as well, as Buck Brothers don't sell them. Lever cap? ehhhhh, not so good....