First large leg build with Lock Miter bit, questions

[Bill Huber]

I know there was a thread on this but I can't find it so I am asking.

I am making 6 legs, they will be 3x3x18 and I am using the lock miter bit for the joints.

1. Is there a better way to make them and not use the lock miter?

2. When using the lock miter do you do 2 parts with the same edge and then the other 2 with the matting edge to make the assemble easier?

3. What clamps do you use when gluing then up?

4. When gluing do you worry about getting glue down in the small groove of the joint?

5. Do you make them like a 1/2" longer and then cut them down to size?

Thanks......

[johnny means]

IMO, the lock miters don't offer any advantage in this application. They do, however, offer up a good chance of a sloppy fit.

I would simply glue up my mitered boards in pairs, making sure to get nice right joints. Them I would joint the two exposed glue faces on each assembly so that they were perfect coplanar. These assemblies would then be glued and clamped like any two boards would be glued up. This approach eliminates any error introduced during the sizing, milling, or assembly processes.

[Dick Mahany]

I tried lock miter bits a number of times on legs about 2.75" square and ~24" long with less than desirable success. They did work, however even after a lot of precision measuring, painstaking set up, test pieces, and jigs for hold downs and guides, I still had corners that left me disappointed. (I used a router table with lift). Ultimately, I remade the legs using a conventional lamination glue up with veneer on two faces. I was using QSWO and they came out much better with the latter method. Could just be me, but my lock miter bits sit in my cabinet never used any more.

When I glued the lock miters up, I used the Bessey F type screw clamp ( not K bodies). I also did the glue up with the method you asked about as it seemed to make it easier. I tried cauls to try to keep things in alignment, but they just didn't turn out to suit me especially given all the work that I put into them.

[Mel Fulks]

Bill, glad to help but I thought you bought the set up gauge and liked it. No? I make them a little long. Make the pcs so that you will have to clamp in only one direction. I use wood strips for glue cauls with paper under them so that they don't stick to project. You can put glue on just one piece but I always at least put some glue on opposite 45 edge. They don't need to be clamped long , saw a guy put glue on a piece that was supposed to be left loose to wrap a metal support. He put glue on it ,saw his mistake immediately and still had dificulty removing it.

[David Wong]

I remember Mark Singer showed a great technique for laminating table legs. See 12 foot Wenge dining table thread.

[Cary Falk]

I 45 the edges and then use a biscuits to hold it together while I get clamps on it. I can glue the 4 sides up all at once. Super easy.

[Alan Bienlein]

I know there was a thread on this but I can't find it so I am asking.

I am making 6 legs, they will be 3x3x18 and I am using the lock miter bit for the joints.

1. Is there a better way to make them and not use the lock miter?There are always other ways. You could just cut 45's and use tape to clamp them up.

2. When using the lock miter do you do 2 parts with the same edge and then the other 2 with the matting edge to make the assemble easier?Yes that way you only need clamps on one side.

3. What clamps do you use when gluing then up?I just use my harbor freight "F" style clamps.

4. When gluing do you worry about getting glue down in the small groove of the joint?I use a brush to spread the glue around so it's on all surfaces of the joint.

5. Do you make them like a 1/2" longer and then cut them down to size?No.

Thanks......

I see there is a lot of dislike for a joint that a lot of people have trouble setting up right. Now that this jig is on the market those days are long gone and no need to save all those set up blocks.

[Mel Fulks]

Never used a router .But carbide cutter on shaper works well . I wrote a couple of lengthy posts on old thread that work
well and guaranty no tear out regardless of the wood. Oh, I think a power feeder is a nessesity .

[Bill Huber]

I tried lock miter bits a number of times on legs about 2.75" square and ~24" long with less than desirable success. They did work, however even after a lot of precision measuring, painstaking set up, test pieces, and jigs for hold downs and guides, I still had corners that left me disappointed. (I used a router table with lift). Ultimately, I remade the legs using a conventional lamination glue up with veneer on two faces. I was using QSWO and they came out much better with the latter method. Could just be me, but my lock miter bits sit in my cabinet never used any more.

When I glued the lock miters up, I used the Bessey F type screw clamp ( not K bodies). I also did the glue up with the method you asked about as it seemed to make it easier. I tried cauls to try to keep things in alignment, but they just didn't turn out to suit me especially given all the work that I put into them.

I did find on my test legs that I was not clamping them very well and went to the F style clamps and that is doing better.

I remember Mark Singer showed a great technique for laminating table legs. See 12 foot Wenge dining table thread.

The problem is Mark has a LOT more skill then I do, his work is really something.

[Bill Huber]

Bill, glad to help but I thought you bought the set up gauge and liked it. No? I make them a little long. Make the pcs so that you will have to clamp in only one direction. I use wood strips for glue cauls with paper under them so that they don't stick to project. You can put glue on just one piece but I always at least put some glue on opposite 45 edge. They don't need to be clamped long , saw a guy put glue on a piece that was supposed to be left loose to wrap a metal support. He put glue on it ,saw his mistake immediately and still had dificulty removing it.

The jig is great and I have been using it on some drawers with great success but with the 4 boards so close together I am having a problem with one of the corners. I have changed the way I was cutting the boards and am using different clamps and this is helping a lot.

I see there is a lot of dislike for a joint that a lot of people have trouble setting up right. Now that this jig is on the market those days are long gone and no need to save all those set up blocks.

The little jig is great, I can set up a lock miter bit the first time in most cases and the only time it takes 2 shots is when I don't get my head down and look at the height line straight on.

[Bill Huber]

I 45 the edges and then use a biscuits to hold it together while I get clamps on it. I can glue the 4 sides up all at once. Super easy.

I just may try cutting them at 45° and then using biscuits, I don't use them very often but this just maybe the time.

[Pat Barry]

IMO, the lock miters don't offer any advantage in this application. They do, however, offer up a good chance of a sloppy fit.

I would simply glue up my mitered boards in pairs, making sure to get nice right joints. Them I would joint the two exposed glue faces on each assembly so that they were perfect coplanar. These assemblies would then be glued and clamped like any two boards would be glued up. This approach eliminates any error introduced during the sizing, milling, or assembly processes.

This is a really good method. The major concern is how much material gets lost during the jointing process? Second, I don't have a jointer. I wonder if this could be done with a planer sled? Of course, then I would have to worry about snipe I suppose.

[Steve Jenkins]

I just miter all the pieces and glue them all at the same time using clear packing tape instead of clamps. The tape will stretch and will provide plenty of pressure. It is a long grain joint so you don't need to reinforce it. I wrap the tape near one end and about every 6" down the length.

[Mark Grotenhuis]

I just made some 3X3X36 legs for a bunk bed I am building using a lock miter bit. They came out beautiful but it was really hard to set up. I would recommend cutting your stock 1/16th wider than your finished dimension as your lock miter bit will probably take off 1/32" on each edge. Use steady even pressure and you should be able to make a beautiful joint. A rock solid quality router table is a must. I built Norm's router table, and while it is a nice table, using this lock miter bit made me wish I had a cast iron top with a micro adjust router lift. I made my legs a good inch longer than I needed and cut them off to length after the glue set. I found that was much easier than trying to get them perfectly square during the glue up. Hope this helps!

[John TenEyck]

That's how I do it, too. These tapered porch columns are really just large table legs. As long as your TS can accurately cut 45 degrees with the blade parallel to the fence (ie not a Sears TS) it's easy. Biscuits to keep things aligned makes the glue up go very easily. I used packing tape for clamping pressure and couple of clamps to keep things square.

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John