Jointer knife Set Up

[Tom M King]

The thicker knives require you to grind down a wrench thin enough to be able to tighten the bolts. I ended up doing that for an old 8" Delta jointer I have, but then found out that Woodworkers Supply sells the thinner knives-don't know about carbide though.

[Jeff Duncan]

Not having luck finding carbide tipped knives for my Delta 037-195 jointer. The knives are 6 1/16 x 5/8 x 3/32. Closest I find are 6 1/16 x 5/8 x 1/8. It would seem 1/32 shouldn't be an issue but I am a newbee at this so I am thinking the 1/8 thick would NOT work.

Anyone have first hand knowledge of this?

Thanks

George

Don't you need backers with the carbide knives? I'm not positive, though I know for shaper tooling you have to have steel backers for carbide….it's just too brittle on it's own. Personally I'd stick with a good quality HSS as carbide is crazy expensive and unless your jointing a lot of man made materials probably unnecessary?

As far as setting knives you can save yourself some money and look up the "stick method". It's just so much easier and will get you up and running without spending on gadgetry.

good luck,
jeffD

[Dennis Peacock]

I glued 2 boards together and then glued some cheap magnets to the 4 corners plus 2 magnets 1" back from what would be at the throat of my jointer. I set my knives that way every single time. Total cost was $5 plus 2 scrap walnut boards. Works perfectly every time.

[CPeter James]

This is my favorite setup. I have Jointer Pals, and about 3 other methods, but this one gets the knives within .002" with a little effort. The cost is less than $15.00. A piece of plywood, two magnets and a $10 dial indicator from Enco. the large flat foot is available from several suppliers on line. I bought several at one time just to have on hand.

CPeter

[Jim Andrew]

CPeter, that is the closest thing I've seen to the old Powermatic jig.

[Don Huffer]

For the record. I don't think there is anyway your knives have slipped. That would be catastrophic.

Before or during knife replacement make sure the machine isn't out of true. Can the out feed table be raised and lowered?

Are both beds on the same plane?

Do you move the machine around? Any hard bumps lately?

Gibbs worn on in feed side?

[ken masoumi]

This is my favorite setup. I have Jointer Pals, and about 3 other methods, but this one gets the knives within .002" with a little effort. The cost is less than $15.00. A piece of plywood, two magnets and a $10 dial indicator from Enco. the large flat foot is available from several suppliers on line. I bought several at one time just to have on hand.

CPeter

CPeter,nice jig,did you make it because you didn't have a magnetic holder or was it because it's more accurate with this jig?

[George Bokros]

The jointer is on a mobile base but it is in the basement and there have been no major jars. Both beds are on the same plane. The knives are dull, I have run considerable material through the shop.

I have adjusted the existing knives, new ones are on order. I am not sure this situation did not exist from day one but I never noticed it. I did find that the outer end of the cutter head is .002 higher than the inner end. I am guessing it could be worn cutter head and / or bearings but I am also not sure this did not exist from day one. I guess I will adjust the new knives so the inner ends are .002 higher than the outer ends to true up the cut. There is more than enough knife width for the knives to still be adequately secured and safe, does it make sense to do this?

I did buy the Oneway Multi Gauge.

It has been two frustrating days.

Thanks for the input and help.

[John Schweikert]

George,

I feel for you. The small grizzly jointer I used took me a while to master a method to get the knives set well. I finally just used a Wixey mini digital height gauge ($25) with great success with the beds set in plane.

Since you bought the Oneway gauge, I'd say you were 1/3 of the way to paying for a Byrd head. With the sawmillcreek discount at Holbren.com, you can get a Byrd Shelix for your 037-195 for a shipped price of $314.10. I bought one in December for a used Jet jointer I got off Craigslist. I'm totally blown away with the quality of cut with the Byrd. Can't say I'll ever go back.

I hope with some more experimentation and practice you can get the knives set well. Otherwise think about returning the gauge and buy a Byrd.

[Mel Fulks]

You say the knives are dull, I think that is the main problem. If you have an actual nick ,try jointing an edge there and you
will see how different that makes the work ! I have seen guys needlessly start adjusting stuff based on what results they
get from a nick...when all they needed to do was move the fence an inch.

[George Bokros]

You say the knives are dull, I think that is the main problem. If you have an actual nick ,try jointing an edge there and you
will see how different that makes the work ! I have seen guys needlessly start adjusting stuff based on what results they
get from a nick...when all they needed to do was move the fence an inch.

Moving the fence an inch will not help, I am using the full 6" width face jointing.

George

[George Bokros]

TI guess I will adjust the new knives so the inner ends are .002 higher than the outer ends to true up the cut.

After I posted this I realized that setting the knives using the One Way referencing the out feed table takes the cutter head relationship to the out feed table out of the picture.

[Mel Fulks]

George, not saying it will help in this case. Im saying table adjustments are often made that are completely unnecessary. If you joint an edge where there is a nick , and joint another in the sharpest
spot ,you will see that it makes a big difference. Test boards should be at least four feet long.

[George Bokros]

How do know if the gibs need to be adjusted? What else should I check to solve tapering edge to edge when face jointing?

Thanks

George

[Mel Fulks]

I just wouldn't worry about that now. If you install sharp knives level with out feed table and still have a problem ...it might be solved by SMALL simple up or down table adjustment.