Jeff Jewitt - Walnut finish (When to fill the grain)

[Dave Fairfax]

I am going to follow a finish by Jeff Jewitt (FWW #176)

It goes as follows: dye, seal with shellac, apply glaze, clear topcoat.

My question is, if I wanted to fill the grain, which I do; when and how should I go about filling the grain. I assume I would do it after the dye and before the seal coat of shellac. Just not sure how I should do it. Thanks.

[Prashun Patel]

Some grain fillers can stain the wood themselves. Assuming the filler does not require bare wood application, I'd dye, seal (with shellac or topcoat if compatible), fill, seal (with shellac or topcoat if compatible), glaze, seal (or topcoat if compatible), ||: top coat :|| .

In many cases you can eliminate the dye on walnut in favor of a darker tinted shellac or top coat.

[Dave Fairfax]

Thank you for responding. How exactly should I fill the grain. The only way I have done it is with pumice and blo and wet sanding the slurry into the pores

[Steve Schoene]

I would do it with a commercial pore filler. The best, but far most expensive, is the Sherwin Williams grain filler. It's virtually all silex as filler which shrinks little, and offers a bit of translucency which adds to depth in the final results.

I would seal the dyed wood with a light shellac application, and then use the pore filler tinted to be just a tad darker than the overall surface. By sealing before the filler you limit its effects mostly just filling the pores with only a little effect on the rest of the surface. This avoids using so much pigment that you obscure the wood grain.

[Dave Fairfax]

Awesome, thanks guys. Im gonna pick some up today.

[James Conrad]

Epoxy is another choice for filling grain. Use an open time that allows you to work it, do your staining prior and test compatibility with your finish. A medium stiff squeegee is good to use in removing excess.

Whatever method, be sure to show us your results!

[Chuck Darney]

I find that walnut takes very well to raising the grain with a damp rag then sanding it down lightly. You may do this a few times before the grain no longer raises. Again, light sandings between the damp rag and I think you'll find that there's little or no grain to fill.

[Dave Fairfax]

Also, does anyone have a recommendation for an Oil-Based Glaze?

[Prashun Patel]

What kind of look are you going for?

If you are looking for black patina in the crevices, then (just for availibility) i've used black/ebony oil stain. Depending on the look you want, you can use it well mixed, or let it separate and either use the thin top (as a wash) or the thick bottom (for a darker look).

You can even use the pore filler as a glaze depending on the look you are going for.

Glazing is about the most forgiving part of the process. If it looks bad, you can wipe most of it off provided you have sealed your wood properly.

Make a test board....

If you are doing all this for learning, or you are going for a specific look, then power to you. However, if you are really just trying to make the walnut look wonderful, you may find you are doing a lot of extra steps for minimal benefit.

Just sayin'.

[Dave Fairfax]

Prashun-

You nailed it. I am just trying to make it look great, with deep rich warm browns good walnut has. Im a rookie when it comes to finishing, so I am basically going to try processes others have come up with. Im willing to put in a lot of work to get it right, but would also appreciate a simple method if it comes out ok. I recently bought some Waterlox and will be experimenting with that as well.

[Prashun Patel]

My own personal favorite on Walnut is in fact Waterlox. Its amber color warms up and darkens the walnut a lot.

It is not necessary to grain fill walnut just because it's open grained. The only time you'd need to do that is if you are looking for a glassy, flat surface.

You may find that a couple coats of wiped on Waterlox provides all the sheen and color you need, and you may find that the open grain does not bother you.

I (humbly) suggest you make up a test board with just Waterlox.

If you dislike the sheen after several coats, then experiment with the filler on a new test board, knowing it will alter the color.

If that still leaves you wanting more color, consider the dye beforehand.

Glazing (for effect) or toning (for color adjustment) are wonderful techniques to learn (I'm still learning), but they don't improve the look of every project - especially (IMHO) woods that already have a dark rich color on their own.

[Dave Fairfax]

Great information Prashun. Thank you.

I'll try the waterlox tonight. Im fortunate enough to have a almost limited supply of super clear walnut; but still dont want to waste any of course