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Thread: Question about cabinet saws and mobility

  1. #1
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    Question about cabinet saws and mobility

    I've just started doing research on my first "nice" table saw purchase and I'm considering a cabinet saw. My main issue is shop space. My shop is a 2 car garage that usually has 2 cars in it. So the saw has to be on a mobile base. I have 220v and I have space along the back wall to store the saw when not in use.

    My hobby woodworking is sporadic - some times a daily thing and then possibly weeks/months with very little.

    So my question is, do cabinet saws mind being constantly moved around? I'm just wondering if rolling one into/out of position on a regular basis will cause me to constantly have to re-align and re-adjust things.

    As I said, I'm just starting to look but the Grizzly 1023 and 0690 look promising and in my price range.

    Thanks for your input.

  2. #2
    They are fine with being moved. Large sliding table saws are sensitive to moving but regular table saws aren't.

  3. #3
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    It shouldn’t be a problem with the right mobile base. I have a Unisaw with the 52” fence system. The Delta base lifts and supports the saw and table as one unit. I don’t move it often but I never have any alignment issues when I do move it. I much prefer a welded base over a bolt together base.
    Last edited by Bruce Page; 03-27-2014 at 11:14 PM.
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  4. #4
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    When I had a Unisaw, it moved all the time. They make special mobile bases just for cabinet saws, including the Grizzly models you mention.

    1023.jpg

  5. #5
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    They can move fine. I had a 1023slx for almost 10 years and a shopfox mobilbase. Worked fine. I'd recommend the Sawstop industrial base. I've got it on my sawstop now and its fantastic. I can move my big TS around with a pinky. Recommendation, go with a full Cabinet saw. Don't do the hybrid, you can avoid issues with the reg cabinet saw. Good luck.

  6. #6
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    One of mine rides in a trailer, and gets moved in and out of houses in the bucket of a front end loader. It's an old Unisaw with 52"fence on a mobile base with an overarm dust arm that's mounted on the base too. I aligned it when I started using it for this purpose around four years ago with a micrometer. It's still cutting dead true. I don't think rolling one around in a garage will matter a bit.
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    Last edited by Tom M King; 03-27-2014 at 11:16 PM.

  7. #7
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    Mine hasn't complained so far...

    My wife insists on parking her vehicle in my shop during the winter - so everything in my shop is mobile also. Here's the base I've made for my Grizzly cabinet saw: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...TS-Mobile-Base

    Ive since added 8' rails, and the saw hasn't come out of alignment in 3+ years of moving the saw around by pushing on said rails. Enjoy your new saw!!!
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  8. #8
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    Thank you all for the replies.

    Bruce, do you have any welded, universal bases you would recommend?

    Jason, that's a very nice looking stand. Is it still holding up well?

  9. #9
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    Michael, my only MB experience is with Delta and HTC. I prefer Delta.

    Here’s a pic of my Uni when she was shiny new 15 years ago. The base, Delta P/N 50-289 lifts the saw and table from the foot lever above the center wheel. It works great on my shop floor.
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  10. #10
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    You can build your own base, Woodcraft has some very nice casters they keep in stock, designed for machines, with foot brakes.100_1810.jpg100_1813.jpg100_1812.jpg

    I may get ridiculed for my use of a Craftsman router table in my saw, but hey it works!
    My base is made from 3" X 3" X .250" square tubing, there is no deflection in my base.
    Mine is fairly mobile, I think there would be a definite benefit from larger wheeled casters though. The tool box looking thing is actually an old drawings or blue print cabinet, converted into my tool box for my cabinet saw. My TS has enough weight that I have yet to worry about locking casters, the base is probably over a couple hundred pounds itself! If you notice the saw sits inside of the base while the converted tool box sits on top of the base, 1/4" plate is under the TS welded to the frame.
    Last edited by Jak Kelly; 03-28-2014 at 12:20 PM.

  11. #11
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    Hi Michael, first welcome to the forum.

    Secondly, do yourself a favour and look at a small sliding saw such as the Hammer K3, lots more functionality and capability in a small space than a cabinet saw.

    3) A cabinet saw or small slider doesn't take up any more room than a contractor saw, are just as mobile and provide far more functionality.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VL54SR0nXgM Here's a video well worth watching.

    Here's a good video, the saws come in different sizes, I have a B3 Winner with the 49" sliding table in a townhouse shop, great space saving solution......Rod.

  12. #12
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    I'll add to what Rod said. I had a cabinet saw with 52" rip capacity to the right of the blade. It had to be rotated 90 degrees from its cutting position in order to get the car in the garage--hence it was on a mobile base. No problems with adjustments, but meant my DC hookup wasn't permanent. I replaced it with a slider with 39" rip to the right of the blade, but with the removable outrigger, almost unlimited rip to the left of the blade using the sliding table. The sliding table moves parallel to the car and the saw does not even need to be on a mobile base, it just sits where it is.

  13. #13
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    Thanks again guys.


    I wish I had the room for a nice 52” wide table like that but I’m going to have to make due with a smaller size.


    Rod I have looked at the sliding saws but honestly I just can’t justify spending that much. I thought that in the future (if I go with the Grizzly) I might look into their T10223 sliding table as an add-on. But certainly down the road a bit.

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