How would you make this brick molding?

[Phil Thien]

Hello. I am in need of some 1-3/8" thick brick molding/brickmoulding (I think we need a standard for spelling this).

The stuff at the local borgs is all 1-1/4". I plan on checking w/ a real lumber yard but imagine theirs is the same 1-1/4". For the amount I actually need at this time, laminating a 1/8" thick piece to the back may be the best solution (although it would be a PITA).

So I started looking at bits and most of them are 3" in diameter. I assume my DW618 could spin that but wow. I imagine the low speed at which I'd have it rotating would really reduce the power the router delivers. I know the DW618 has an electronic speed control, but I'd imagine (I do not know this) that the power curve for a universal motor favors more RPM's.

So I found a vertical bit, 1" in diameter, that is a brick molding bit. Kind of a vertical panel raising bit. Vertical panel raising bits never really got that popular, did they? I don't know why, is there a downside to these? $40 isn't bad, but the bit I found is from Woodline, I'm unsure of the quality.

So then I wondered if I could make this using maybe another smaller profile, and then removing some additional waste at the table saw, making a taller kerf cut. I'm including a picture of the profile.

So oh great ones, how would you tackle this? Would you:

(1) Laminate 1/8" more onto the back (I need to find unprimed I suppose, too, or scrap the primed).

(2) Go with a 3" diameter bit and make your own.

(3) Go with the vertical (1") diameter bit and make your own.

(4) Use a combination of another router bit + table saw (and suggestions for the other profile would be handy).

Thanks in advance!

P.S. BTW, all this brick molding I'm finding is pine. Ugh. I'd prefer cedar, no? I would swear that 25 years ago I could find moldings in cedar or pine, now everything is pine? I know it is getting painted but I've not had great luck w/ the longevity of pine in the elements, painted or not.

[Mel Fulks]

I find that to be a particularly ugly profile .And every time I see it the feeble ogee part has gotten more feeble. I think they
do make it in PCV .

[Art Mann]

However you decide to create the odd size, I would not use either pine or cedar if you plan to paint it. PVC material will last longer and look better longer than either one. Some of the nicest and most expensive houses being built today don't use exterior wood trim.

[Judson Green]

Check Fillingers.

[jack forsberg]

oh boy

However you decide to create the odd size, I would not use either pine or cedar if you plan to paint it. PVC material will last longer and look better longer than either one. Some of the nicest and most expensive houses being built today don't use exterior wood trim.

i guess your looking for a work around as that is a common HSS pin cutter($25) for a sharper head? The old sears HSS heads may even have that profile for use with the RAS/ TS molder head.

[Peter Quinn]

I would do it in PVC. I too find that to be the most generic profile conceivable, don't feel stuck with it, you could create the same functionality with any manner of router bits and add more visual interest if trimming the whole opening, which may be worth your time? Fast and dirty, just laminate an 1/8" to the stock profile with gorilla glue and be done, clamp them in pairs face to face with caulks on the outside to minimize clamps.

[Tom M King]

How many feet do you need? If just a few, like for the one door you're working on, I'd make it on the table saw, and use hollows and rounds for the little profile. I'd use Cypress, but you probably don't have that up there.

I think I have one of those old Sears molding heads that Jack mentioned. If you'd like, I can check to see if I can find it. I remember buying one, but don't remember ever using it. I'll be glad to send it to you. If I have one, I bought it in the '70s, and if I haven't used it by now, I probably don't need it.

[Tom M King]

I went out to the old original shop, and found the molding head right off. Unfortunately, it doesn't have any cutter close to that profile. It does have a straight one if you want it to regrind. Comes with 40 years of dust and dirt on the package.holddownmoldinghead 006 (1024x768).jpgholddownmoldinghead 007 (768x1024).jpg

[Julian Tracy]

For a 1/8" difference - why bother? Exterior trim will be caulked anyways. Shim it if you need for the 1/8" and then caulk as per normal, which will fill the 1/8" gap.

JT

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I have a couple raised panel door router bits that one might be able to use for the profile on a larger piece of wood and then use a table saw to cut away the unwanted portions.

[Paul Incognito]

This is what I was thinking.
When I'm installing molding against masonry I caulk it in with this: http://www.sashco.com/products/mor-flexx/ Much nicer than having a white line of caulk against your brick. Oh, and another vote for pvc molding.
If you don't want it white, I've found it holds paint way better than wood.
Paul

For a 1/8" difference - why bother? Exterior trim will be caulked anyways. Shim it if you need for the 1/8" and then caulk as per normal, which will fill the 1/8" gap.

JT

[Phil Thien]

This is what I was thinking.
When I'm installing molding against masonry I caulk it in with this: http://www.sashco.com/products/mor-flexx/ Much nicer than having a white line of caulk against your brick. Oh, and another vote for pvc molding.
If you don't want it white, I've found it holds paint way better than wood.
Paul

I'm replacing ONE PIECE of brick mold around a door. So it has to be 1-3/8", or else I'll have to replace all of it. I have some concerns about how this door was installed, I don't really want to open any cans of worms right now by removing more of the molding. It could be okay, I don't know, I just don't want to find out I'm doing an entry door replacement right at this point in time.

I'm going to glue some stock to the back of a piece of pine brick mold and I'll prime/paint the snot out of it.

[Walter Plummer]

We used a bit like this. http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v139-2005 You can make the "flat" anything you want. For one piece for a repair I say glue on and don't look back. Good luck.

[Phil Thien]

We used a bit like this. http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v139-2005 You can make the "flat" anything you want. For one piece for a repair I say glue on and don't look back. Good luck.

Oh, I had missed that one. Hmmm...

Thanks for the link!

[Jim Andrew]

No longer than the pine brickmold lasts, seems if you were going to the trouble to make your own, you should use a wood with lasting power, like white oak. When I get around to it, planning to make some white oak molding for my house. Then the screws wouldn't loosen up on my storm door.