Need suggestions for mortise chisel

[Bill Rhodus]

The point Josh made about plowing a shallow groove to position the mortice can be an important one in some circumstances. This can speed up layout and allows you to make a heavy cut right away rather than an initial shallow cut to reduce tear out. I sold some pig stickers and bought the Narex based upon the quality of their bench chisels and have not been disappointed. The bulk of woodworkers could buy a 1/4 and 5/16 Narex mortice chisel and forget about this issue so they could focus on building something.

[Sean Hughto]

Perhaps I missed a post here, but I never heard about a plowing a groove to start a mortise. It might be a good practice mind you, but what I was talking about, and thought Josh was talking about is that a very common use of m&t is in frame and panel construction - and there you need a groove for the panel - it is easiest to just plow the length of the rails and stiles, chop your mortises and cut your tenons in the rails in such a way so as to fill any goove the might show on the stile members at the top and bottom.

[Adam Cruea]

If you're dead-set on getting a new mortise chisel and it being Ray Isles, I can say with certainty that TFWW is very good about holding the stock they do get aside. It might take a while, but months can pass and they'll remember to send you things.

I had to get a replacement for my 1/2" mortiser. It was ever-so-slightly curved, so that when you put it down and went to whack the bolster, it was tilted slightly to the right and it annoyed me to no end. I mentioned this almost a year after I got the chisel (I tried to put up with this, but just couldn't) and TFWW ended up replacing it. I mentioned it before Christmas, I think, that it was off, and just got a replacement maybe 2 weeks ago.

Anyway, long story short, great business and they will keep their word. And the RI mortise chisels rock. I used the 1/2" that got replaced for hogging out all the mortises on my hickory work bench. 16 in all, ranging from 1 1/2" deep to 3 3/4" through-mortises. That hickory chewed up the D2 and took some insane chunks out of it, that's for sure.

[Derek Cohen]

Just for reference, I used my LN #49 to create T & G boards for the back of a pair of chests, and then retained the settings for the groove in the frame.



When it came to chopping the mortices (for the ends) in the groove, I discovered that the groove was a non-standard size ... one third of ½” … which is … well, it is more than a 1/8” and less than a ¼” chisel. Luckily the friendly salvage yard also had a bin of unused ¼” mortice chisels ($5 each). I grabbed one and ground the sides until it was a perfect fit for the #49 groove (the sides were also relieved to a slight trapezoid). These did a great job.


Regards from Perth

Derek

[Gary Muto]

As stated previously, the Narex Chisels from Lee Valley are true to inch measurements. I don't remember my exact measurements but I remember that they matched, dare I say... my router bits.

Those Chisels also have black wooden handles. Some complain about the handle fit. I guess they are a little on the large side but they don't bother me. my hands are probably larger than average.

[Bill Rhodus]

Derek, this is similar to what I was referring to in my previous post, however, a much shallower groove and using my plow which has standard irons to match the mortice chisel. After having done the groove/mortice in your post, do you see yourself using your plow to reference mortices in some circumstances or were you "turned off" by the mismatch issue?

[Jim Leslie]

The only mortise chisel I have is a 3/8" LN. Bashed out a LOT of mortises with it without any issue at all.

[Jim Sevey]

I bought the set of Narex mortise chisels several months ago. I have no experience with other brands but I am happy with these chisels. Seem to hold an adge well. About 15 minutes ago I opened the box and took out my new Narex left and right skew chisels for cleaning out half-blind dovetails. They look to be the same quality. Good value for the price.

[Darren Brewster]

I'll just through my hat into the ring for the Narex mortise chisels. I think they are a good size for furniture work, keep a decent edge after you hone though the factory bevel a little way, and the price can't be beat.

[Graham Haydon]

"I'll just through my hat into the ring for the Narex mortise chisels. I think they are a good size for furniture work, keep a decent edge after you hone though the factory bevel a little way, and the price can't be beat."

Could not of put it better Darren.

[Glenn Samuels]

I've got a set of these chisels from Germany that seem to be made very well:

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com...info/101-0605/

[peter gagliardi]

I didn't see them mentioned, but you should at least look at the excellent chisels by Barr Tools in Idaho. They are quite robust, and a dream to sharpen. They are a socket style like the Lie-Nielsen, but unlike Lie-Nielsen, they actually KNOW how to make a PROPER socket to receive the handle, and quite importantly, it keeps the handle secure!
These can be used for rough and fine work, and take and hold a wicked edge!
However, they are not bargain basement priced tools, they ARE worth every penny they cost!

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Unless the plow is quite deep, it won't really help you steer the cuts so much as just help you start them in the right place when mortising. That's half the battle, of course.

I have actually just taken a few swipes with the plow to start my mortise when I had the plow set up, that's what I was kind of mentioning - it just makes setting the first strikes of the mortise chisel easier, giving your chisel something to register in, which helps when working with a long chisel. And if you want a clean mortise, makes it a little easier. Not something I'd go out of my way for, but since the plane was there, I did it, and then cleaned the "micro-groove" away with a few swipes of the jack plane after the mortise was done. Kind of an odd-ball way of doing it. Like Sean says, really one normally only does this when working in F&P construction.

[Adam Cruea]

I've got a set of these chisels from Germany that seem to be made very well:

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com...info/101-0605/

Dumb question; ever used a mortise chisel without a leather washer? I'm curious how much force the leather absorbs on strong blows.

[Mike Henderson]

Dumb question; ever used a mortise chisel without a leather washer? I'm curious how much force the leather absorbs on strong blows.

Pigstickers do not have a leather washer. Leather washers seem to only be used on some chisels, both regular bench chisels and mortise chisels.

Mike