Beginner woodshop - recommendations for first tools?

[dawn villaescusa]

I'm retired and have recently discovered woodworking -- after building a bookcase, some shelves (see project forum for some pix) and a side table I can say that I'm really enjoying myself! I have a few electric handtools and several non-electric ones (I grew up in the house of a carpenter and have always loved tools). My workspace is about a quarter of our garage, so about 10x12 or so. My worktable is one of those folding Workmates, and I also have a workbench for tools and some additional work surface (sorry for the poor quality phone pix).
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I figure that I'll probably be doing shelves, tables, and boxes for awhile, along with some cat toys. I doubt I'll be trying to rip 4x8 sheets of plywood at home or anything like that. I have really enjoyed using reclaimed wood for my projects to date (all 4 weeks of experience under my belt ). I aspire to someday build a worktable/bench!

Electric tools include:
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7 1/4" Skilsaw
1/3hp Skil jigsaw
Mikita 9.6 cordless drill
3/8 Skil corded drill
4" sander
Dremel with Router and Drill Press attachments
(I used the router for dados and rabbets, slow going but it works. Used the "drill press" for peg-holes for the adjustable shelves on my bookcase.)

My wish list right now is for a marking gauge, wood vise (or two), new set of chisels, and maybe a lathe (ok, that one will probably wait a bit).

I'd like to ask the community what your recommendations are for the next tools, accessories or other things that I should purchase or put on my wish list (other than lighting and ventilation - have been reading other threads for that info)? Thank you!

[Pat Barry]

I will tell you to pick a project then identify if any of the work involved in that project requires a tool you don't have. The answer to that will tell you what tool you need. As far as ripping a 4x8 sheet of plywood, if you buy it from HD for example, have them rip it / cross-cut it to rough size for you. Otherwise, laying it on a couple of 2x4's on your garage floor and that skilsaw will make short work of the cutting - not precision cutting though. I got by for quite a while using a straight piece of plywood cutoff as a guide for my circular saw to make long straight cuts. Have fun.

[dawn villaescusa]

Thanks! My next project is more shelves (I have zillions of books). I will say that cutting the shelf-boards to be exactly the same was challenging - I was thinking a chop saw might need to be the next power tool? Or do I really need a table saw for that? Then there's the whole router issue...

[Rich Tesoroni]

Not sure your area, but poke around for an older Craftsman table saw. Might be able to get pretty cheap.

As far as new tools, don't buy junk. Won't like and they don't hold any value. Something like the used table saw could probably move along for what you paid.

If you search here you'll find a lot of posts of tools people like, as well as the ones most don't.

Rich

[Pat Barry]

Getting shelves cut to matching lengths can be done pretty well with a circular saw but not freehand. Measure the offset from the blade to the edge of the saw base plate and then clamp a straightedge to your shelf at the offset distance and run the baseplate of the saw right along the straightedge. For example, for an 8 inch wide shelf, clamp about a 12 to 16 inch piece of plywood to the shelf with the edge overhanging the shelf so that it supports the edge of your saw base plate and helps to guide you into to cut. The nice thing about a piece of plywood is that you can use the factory cut edge which is pretty straight and you can clamp it quite ways to the side of your saw so the clamps don't interfere. Of course, if you want to spend money then a sliding miter saw is nice (but pricey). My 10" miter saw (not a slider) will only cut a 5 3/4" wide shelf so the slider gets you much more capacity. The beauty of the miter saw is that you can re-cut and just shave a tiny bit off to get the accuracy you want.

[dawn villaescusa]

Not sure your area, but poke around for an older Craftsman table saw. Might be able to get pretty cheap.
Rich

I was given an old PowrKraft table saw - motor and bushing seem to be in good shape, but no fence or miter and the cord was chewed up. I don't think I have what it takes to restore this guy. Any Oregon members want a project?
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[dawn villaescusa]

Getting shelves cut to matching lengths can be done pretty well with a circular saw but not freehand. Measure the offset from the blade to the edge of the saw base plate and then clamp a straightedge to your shelf at the offset distance and run the baseplate of the saw right along the straightedge. For example, for an 8 inch wide shelf, clamp about a 12 to 16 inch piece of plywood to the shelf with the edge overhanging the shelf so that it supports the edge of your saw base plate and helps to guide you into to cut. The nice thing about a piece of plywood is that you can use the factory cut edge which is pretty straight and you can clamp it quite ways to the side of your saw so the clamps don't interfere. Of course, if you want to spend money then a sliding miter saw is nice (but pricey). My 10" miter saw (not a slider) will only cut a 5 3/4" wide shelf so the slider gets you much more capacity. The beauty of the miter saw is that you can re-cut and just shave a tiny bit off to get the accuracy you want.

I rigged up a jig to get my 29" lengths and it worked pretty well. I think I was hampered more by my workbench size/shape and lack of good clamps than anything else. Thanks for the tips on the miter saw - I have alot to learn!

[Myk Rian]

I think you'll get the most use out of a good SCMS (sliding compound miter saw). Others here can recommend a good brand. I don't have one.

[John TenEyck]

The idea to get a used Craftsman belt drive, cast iron tablesaw is a good one. You can buy them in my area for $150 nearly every day. Cheaper than a miter saw and far more versatile. I built a lot of pretty nice stuff when I first started out with a Sears TS, a router and a few bits, and some hand tools. If you put it on a mobile base you'll have room for it in your small space. Put a shop built router table in place of one of the extensions and you'll have a lot of capability in a small footprint.

John

[Greg Peterson]

Table saw will excel at rip cuts of virtually any length. When it comes to cross cuts, width of stock and/or length of stock being cross cut can present challenges.

It did not take me long to realize that something needed to be done with all the dust (not chips or what is generally considered saw dust by the lay person).

If you plan on adding any more power tools (table saw, band saw, jointer, planer...) you might want to consider DC.

My DC consists of a Harbor Freight DC unit with a Wynn Environmental cartridge filter, a Jet AFS-1000B air scrubber, a Ridgid shop vac with a hepa filter and Dust Deputy, and so I know the air is safe to breathe, I have a Dylos particle counter.

My DC systems aren't perfect, but they go a long way towards making the hobby safe and pleasurable.

[Paul Symchych]

Agree with Myk.
Don't forget that a table saw eats up a lot of floor space.

[dawn villaescusa]

I'm keeping an eye on Craig's List. Harbor Freight has a compound miter saw #98199 with good reviews (one of the exceptions listed on a beware of harbor freight webpage). In the meantime, I need to get a better prybar and finish taking the fence apart so I can make the rest of the shelves for our bedroom (1 down, 3 to go).

[Gary Petit]

I agree with a lot of peoples comments above. Figure out what projects you are planning on doing, and see what tools you might need if you don't have them already. I recommend staying away from harbor freight compound miter saws. I got mine and returned it right away. Pulled it out of the box and had rust all over the saw. Although, craigslist is a great place for used tools. Always good deals. Just picked up a great 15 inch grizzly planer today from a guy. Enjoy your journey in woodworking, you will love it!!

[John Sanford]

Clamps. For the "Quick-Grip" type (pistol grip one handed bar clamps), keep an eye out for when the big box stores have 4 packs of mini Quik-Grips (?) (by Irwin) on sale for about $20. Depending on the deal, they can all be 6", or they can be 2 6" and 2 12". Those are the minis. For the larger ones, I much prefer the Jorgensen's over the Irwin's, they are more comfortable to use. Stay away from the cheap variants of this type of clamp.

In addition to clamps, a decent low angle block plane, and a decent jack plane. The two planes will allow you to quickly shave just a hair off a board in order to fit, all without making the fine dust that sanding will cause. Oh, and if you don't have one, a good 12" combination square. It's a very versatile beast.

[jim hedgpeth]

My biggest recommendation would be a couple saw guides for that Skill saw.
I have a short one and a long one, mainly for breaking down sheet goods, but if I didn't have a table saw they would get a lot more use. Can be used as a guide for most any cut if you want.
I dont want to infringe on any copyright stuff so here's a link....something like this..................http://www.wwgoa.com/shop-made-circu...-easy-awesome/

A miter saw would be a good addition for you from what you have said.
I would pony-up for a middle of the pack "bang for the buck" version from a reputable company.
I dont have one, so I will leave recommendations to those who do.
I doubt I would try the HF one. You may find it OK, but my luck with "cheap" tools has always been pure frustration, and an extended vocabulary.......... on the dirty side. Then down the road I finally get a "better" tool, and WOW this thing works great.
On second thought, maybe thats why I'm happy with some mid grade stuff instead of "Top of the line".
Never looked at it that way till now.

A couple of speed squares are always handy, and relatively cheap..http://www.amazon.com/Swanson-SO101-...s=speed+square
Being a triangle they can't be knocked out of square if you drop them. Come in several sizes, I probable have 6-8 of them and use them a lot. They stand up on their own if you need both hands, bang the foot against the side of a board and mark at 90* or 45* in a flash, use to guide a circle saw for 90*cross cuts, and a whole world of more complicated stuff.

Things you mention wanting............
Marking gauge............. for small stuff, I have and love this because I can set 2 "depths" as long as they are both less than ~1.5-2". http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...13&cat=1,42936
Veritas also has very nice full size wheel marking gauges, which I have also.

Chisels are one of those things where opinions can be different, and sometimes very ......... heated. Some prefer old ones restored to useable, others Japanese style, or new classic style, or........... you get the idea.
I have the 8 pc. set of these http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791.../dp/B004TK0IG8
and have nothing but good to say for them. Not the cheapest, or most expensive, but they hold an edge well for me and do everything I have asked of them. 4pc set ~$100 delivered 8pc ~$160 to me the 8pc is a better buy so I went that way. I would rather have them, than need and not have.

Hope that's helpful, and keep enjoying your woodworking projects no mater what tools you do or dont add down the road.

Jim