Redimensioning Lumber

[Jim Koepke]

Just curious what type of wood the 9 deg rake is used for, or if it would be fairly generic.

Roger,

That is pretty much a generic use saw. It is used in just about any wood from pine to purple heart. 9º is about as relaxed as one wants on a rip saw. Lately my saws are getting a bit more aggressive by being filed at 5º rake for rip saws.

jtk

[Roger Rettenmeier]

Thanks, Jim. I have a a couple of rip saws filed at 5 that I use for dimensioning wood. A plane will cure any rough finish. I have some 4/4 and 5/4 stock (random width 4 to 7 inches) that I may try resawing by hand. I will set up one of the saws between 7 and 9 degrees.

[Eric Gracka]

how much do you need to take off, and do you hsve a use for the piece remaining?

1/4" off of each face of 2x6 pine, to be used for a benchtop. I have no use for the removed wood.

[Eric Gracka]

Eric, What is the end product? A table top? Aprons? From what I understand, you don't care about the wood you remove (can all be planed away as opposed to resaw). 1/2" on a 2"x8"- 8 foot board is a lot of wood. Do you need the piece to be 1" specifically? (that's what a 2x8 will end up after you take 1/2" - Texas math, don't ask). Why not just S4S it by hand (scrub, jack, jointer if all needed), figure out what the dimension ends up being and work around that.

/p

Hi Pedro:

It should have read:

"On one project I want to remove 1/4" off of both faces of 2x6's. The material is 8 foot 2x6 pine. If I use a scrub plane, I intend to smooth with a #5 and true with a #6."

The wood will be used for a 8' x 3' x 5" benchtop (wood is laid on edge, and I am removing 1/4" off of each face so they can be glued and screwed properly).

[Jim Koepke]

I have no use for the removed wood.

Is it legal to have wood stoves in your area?

Know anyone that has one?

jtk

[Pedro Reyes]

Hi Pedro:

It should have read:

"On one project I want to remove 1/4" off of both faces of 2x6's. The material is 8 foot 2x6 pine. If I use a scrub plane, I intend to smooth with a #5 and true with a #6."

The wood will be used for a 8' x 3' x 5" benchtop (wood is laid on edge, and I am removing 1/4" off of each face so they can be glued and screwed properly).

Eric, 2x6and2x8 from the BORGs have heavily radiused corners, I would start at the edges (not faces) with your #5 then a jointer (your #6 if that's what you have) and then see how far from getting a glue face you are, I think at this point all you'll need is to joint the faces, I would not call that redimensioning.

If I may suggest, if you can get 2x12s, these boards IMO, can be ripped in 3, removing the area around the pith in the middle and ending up with 2 quartersawn boards about 2x 4-1/2, which is plenty thick for a bench top. Then you would simply joint edges and faces. You do have to pick thru the boards to find some like that, but very doable. Just me.

/p

[Curt Putnam]

Eric,

Please do not use screws in your benchtop glueup. Glue alone is more than strong enough. There is a law that says there will always be a crew wherever you need to drill a hole.

[Eric Gracka]

Eric, 2x6and2x8 from the BORGs have heavily radiused corners, I would start at the edges (not faces) with your #5 then a jointer (your #6 if that's what you have) and then see how far from getting a glue face you are, I think at this point all you'll need is to joint the faces, I would not call that redimensioning.

If I may suggest, if you can get 2x12s, these boards IMO, can be ripped in 3, removing the area around the pith in the middle and ending up with 2 quartersawn boards about 2x 4-1/2, which is plenty thick for a bench top. Then you would simply joint edges and faces. You do have to pick thru the boards to find some like that, but very doable. Just me.

/p

Thank you for the suggestion - I think you just saved me a lot of grief.

[Eric Gracka]

Eric,

Please do not use screws in your benchtop glueup. Glue alone is more than strong enough. There is a law that says there will always be a crew wherever you need to drill a hole.

Thank you for the advise - the screws are now gone. Is Titebond III the way to go, or is there another effective/cheaper glue.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I used a few screws in glue-up on my benchtop, but only to help compensate for a lack of clamps. The screws were removed after each successive glue-up (I did the top in stages, initially by face-gluing two benchtop slabs I got off craigslist to reach a thickness I thought I wanted, and then adding some more strips.

Curt is right though - there will always be at least one place you want a hole where there is a screw - even if you though you removed all the screws! Guess how I know this . . .