wood spirit

[doug williams]

20140409_213516.jpgThis is the spirit I was talking about for Mark Yundt. I'm still learning the art of sculpting to me anyway to get everything in proportion. Don't know if I got this loaded right, not to puter savy. Getting the eye area and nose seems to be the hardest part right now. Just need more practice. The style of burrs to use in this area was what I was wondering about. I have a long way to go with this, but it's fun. Thanks Doug

[Mark Yundt]

There you go!
Thats one way of loading a pic. it works.
Another is click on advanced when you post. A screen comes up that you can load photos to and they'll appear with the post as well.
Regardless , now I have a better idea what your question is related to. Did you do both or is the one a model for reference?
It seems that whatever bits you are using are doing the job for you. Sometimes it's a matter of using what you have to get started until you discover that a smaller bit, or one shaped differently would serve you better. That's why I suggested a flame for example. It can be used for finer detail with the point and also act like a ball to remove more stock when laid on its side. Also works well for blending cuts.

As far as practice goes you have quit a bit on just this piece alone. I'm sure you've gotten a good idea of what the bits you have are able to do as well as you learning control of them.
Making the cuts and removing wood is the easy part. You know most of what you need at this point. You're developing motor skills and adapting as you sculpt watching how the wood responds to the various bits. Now , as you say, you need to learn proportions etc.

The skills necessary to remove wood either with power or chisels is grasped very quickly. A project or two gives you that. With chisels for example a stop cut, waste cut and shearing cut are the only ones I , for example or a newbie will use.
The difference lies not in the cuts so much as where to make the cuts. That's why at times a newbie will gingerly poke at a carving unsure of where to make , and how deep to do the next cut. "what if I remove too much wood!" They know how to make the cut, just not where.

Or, in a class situation they'll do a great carving with an instructor present but at home alone can't produce the same results. So,,,take another class to get a carving . When you learn to see , and have the basic rudimentary skills of carving, you will be able to carve anything your mind can come up with.
Now the goal is to develop the only real skill set needed to produce a carving of any type. The skill of learning to see.

Then, it will matter little if the tool isn't as sharp as it could be ( mine aren't for sure ) or the exact right tool for the cut, or any host of reasons that might be thought of. If you see what needs to go to find the form most any tool you grab can be made to work to a great extent. Naturally for refinement there are those that are needed but you'd be surprised.

another example is you can use the same pencil and paper and make the same marks that someone who can draw will make. The only difference here too is they can see where to make those same strokes that you can make to produce a sketch .
They learned how to see. Without honing THAT skill , all the practice is for little gain . And it's easily proved to be true.

[doug williams]

Thanks for the advice. The one on the left was done first, right second. Same log 7 inch wide chain sawed in half. Have printed pictures of different faces I have found on the net to get ideas. Bought some flex cut knifes practiced on some 2by2s on the corners like I saw on you tube videos. Pine doesn't look like anything so tried some hard wood limbs and wow when you put some oil on. You're exactly right on where to make the stop cuts to give it the 3 dimension feature. That's my problem with my inexperience of carving. Learning where to put those marks as you say is what I'm trying to get to. Thanks for the advice and encouragement, I really appreciate it coming from such a talented carver taking the time to respond. You work is gorgeous with the details woven in proportion to the projects. Thanks again Doug

[Mark Yundt]

Hi Doug,
Sorry for the delay in responding. I was determined to complete the last addition of 150 ft of the molding job and I wrapped it up this evening around 7:00! Yippee!
All total it came to the length of 4 1/2 football fields length of molding and just over 31,000 leaves. This last bit they added on only represented 3,200 leaves. Not bad for 2 weeks work. I'll deliver it on Monday.

Now, with your project.
At first glance ( on my phone) I wasn't sure if you did both or used one as a model. But then I looked and the wood was so similar I had a hunch you did them both.
Wow. The differences between your first and the second are like two different carvers did them. You learned a lot. Kudo's to you. If the second looked too much like the first you'd have lost something or used the first as a model. You didn't and it shows.
Your perspective and location of features hits much closer on the second piece for sure. Granted there is no right or wrong way to do a Wood Spirit and it can look like whatever you want it to be. But the balance and configuration of the face,, and even the style of the hair and beard are a much nicer presentation on the second. I"m sure you can see the differences.
And in no way am I disparaging your first piece. You gave it a go and that's what counts. And look where you ended up. First pieces are a great reference as to where you came from and where you are.
Just for an example my first decoy looked like an aircraft carrier. Flat. The head looked like the control tower sticking out of it. Another carver said I should carve " rounder". OK. So I did. The second looked like a football with a head! Hey,, we all start somewhere and thankfully we learn and progress. Those who fail to understand history are condemned to repeat it.
Anyway,
As far as carving a face goes the key to remember, even in a relatively shallow piece of wood where you're not carving in full 3D is to reference everything in relation to each other. Think of a coin for example. It's a perfect example of carving on a relatively flat surface yet if you look at it , it has great perspective yet each surface is mere thousanths of an inch apart. Cool huh?
There is your perspective!
As long as you keep the depths and heights relative to each other the face will look good. The second face is pretty much there. The nose is better located in relation to the cheeks. The overall face is better proportioned to the rest of the features. This is just my opinion and as I said a wood spirit can look however you decided it to look.
Another bonus to doing a piece like this is the face can be sunk into the wood and the hair and beard almost billowing out and away from it.
With this approach you are a few cuts away from doing a Greenman carving. Throw in some leaves for a variation in carving and you're good to go.

[Ryan Mooney]

Nice work Doug. You definitely improved substantially in the general feel/layout from the first to the second, although the first really is dang nice for a first shot.

[Terry Beadle]

Really good work. Be sure to write "Excellent Wood Carver" on your next resume.

Thanks for posting !