Walnut trim - Crown, chair, base. Glue or pin nail? how to address the nail holes

[Dave Fairfax]

I have never installed stain grade decorative millwork before and am wondering what is the best way to approach. I have several hundred feet of crown, chair, and base to install, all of it is Walnut. Im used to nailing everything and caulking the holes, then painting.

Do some folks use enough pin nails until glue sets up? And what to do with the pin holes from finish nails.

Lastly, I would much rather finish before installing, is that possible?

[George Bokros]

If I am installing stained crown molding and chair rail I always stain and finish prior to installation. It far easier than trying to mask the wall and ceiling to protect from stain. It is very difficult to hide the stain particularly on a textured drywall ceiling. Actually I would stain baseboard and casing prior to install also.

George

[Jim Matthews]

Pin nailer and purpose built adhesive.

There's no reason why you couldn't at least seal it before putting it up.
What is the final finish you have chosen?

I would want to apply that after caulk and fill of any gaps.

[Stephen Musial]

For chair rail that's easily seen, I use a small gouge to lift a sliver of wood. Put the nail in and then use hide glue to hold the sliver back in place. Nothing to fill, no muss, no fuss. I then finish, caulk then paint.

For baseboards and crown, I'll use an 18ga. nailer to attach the molding to a stud or lathe (or whatever). After it's finished, I go back and fill any holes with the appropriate colored wax stick. To attach quarter round, I'll use a 23 gauge pin nailer and then go back and wipe it with a wet rag. The wood swells and the hole pretty much disappears.

[Dave Fairfax]

Top coat will be 4-5 coats of waterlox.

[John McClanahan]

If I am installing stained crown molding and chair rail I always stain and finish prior to installation. It far easier than trying to mask the wall and ceiling to protect from stain. It is very difficult to hide the stain particularly on a textured drywall ceiling. Actually I would stain baseboard and casing prior to install also.

George

This, plus I saw on an episode of the Woodwhisperer, where Marc would stick a dab of blue painters tape where he wanted to brad nail. After nailing thru the tape, he would smear a dab of tinted wood filler in the hole with his finger and pull the tape off. Worked slick for him.

John

[Jim Matthews]

Waterlox has a strong odor when curing.

I think you're wise to finish it before installation.
Otherwise, you'll have the windows open for ages.

I'm curious why you would choose this finish, as the surfaces won't be handled much.

[Sam Murdoch]

Yes, finish before install. Fill nail holes with soft tinted wood filler or these - http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/cata...asp?ictNbr=106. The tape and nail and fill is on 1st thought - a bit tedious - but on 2nd thought a pretty good idea.

[Dave Fairfax]

Waterlox has a strong odor when curing.

I think you're wise to finish it before installation.
Otherwise, you'll have the windows open for ages.

I'm curious why you would choose this finish, as the surfaces won't be handled much.

The whole room will be finished that way, wainscoting, columns, coffered ceiling, etc. The project is a private home cinema with Walnut and Maple Burl. The waterlox is purely aesthetic. I tried over a dozen finishes, and settled on Orange shellac followed by several coats of waterlox, it came out fantastic, especially the crotch and curly walnut I have.

[Brian Williamson]

+1 on Waterlox for trim.

I have it on all the trim, windows, doors, and floor of my house.