Buffed wax finish on tabletop streaking in use, other options?

[glenn bradley]

Steve, that is not what the instructions say on the can. They say to "allow to dry for a MINIMUM of 20 minutes - longer if possible."

I'm not arguing, I'm just supplying information . . . From their site:

Application -
Apply Black Bison Fine Paste Wax sparingly with a cloth on a delicate / French polished surface or with Ultra Fine steel wool (Liberon grade 0000) when a deeper penetration is required.
Allow to dry for 20 minutes, or until touch dry, and then buff with a clean cotton cloth or furniture brush.
Repeat the operation on new or very dry wood as it may require two or more coats.
For a better finish, buff with the Liberon Furniture Brush once the last coat has dried.

[Andy Pratt]

That is not what the instructions say on the can, I do have one sitting in front of me (2013 purchase) and I did quote it exactly, so let's please move on. I appreciate seeing the info from their web instructions and realize that it is slightly different from the can instructions. That being said, if you have read my previous posts you will realize that I actually tried less, more and equal time (vs. either set of the instructions) for the wax to dry, on three separate occasions, with similar resulting issues, so the discussion over the instructions on wait time is irrelevant at this point. I am not blaming the product (I really like it and use it a lot actually), I am simply looking for advice/input on my application/methodology.

The purpose of this thread was to find out if anyone had thoughts as to why I was experiencing smudges/streaks in the wax in this specific application, whether or not another brand of wax would eliminate/reduce this, and if I could improve my application method to mitigate or eliminate smudges/streaks.

I appreciate all of the genuine attempts to help and have gained useful information as a result of them. I don't want this to turn into a wax vs no-wax debate, I use wax and will continue to do so because I believe it is the best way for anyone to protect their expensive-to-repair table top clear coats. If you disagree please make a separate thread, it doesn't help me or anyone else who will read this in the future if this thread turns into a debate on whether or not to wax the top of a table finish, that is a different topic that different people will have interest in.

I have ordered another wax to try out, and I will update my results here when I use it.

[Willem Martins]

What maintenance? I built a very special series of mantle clocks to commemorate the death of my beloved father-in-law. Each of his grandchildren got one. They all still look just like they did when finished with Watco Danish Oil and Johnson's Paste Wax 7 years ago and the most maintenance any of them have ever had is wiping with an old cotton t-shirt. Are you saying car polish is immune to dust? If you are talking about hard daily use items like table tops then I doubt whether any kind of wax, natural or synthetic, is going to reduce maintenance to a nicely varnished surface.

I also have a granfather clock with mineral oil and paste wax, my father built, going on 50 years no maintenance. On a side table though, a momentary drop of water, or a cold glass causes immediate damage. I do not use car wax, the 3M compounds have no residual wax once buffed, it just leaves a texture and feel dependent on the type of finish and the specific compound selected. There are a few, they work real fast, requiring only a light rub, or more intensive if there were defects in the finish. Look on the 3M website. They are expensive, however, I have five bottles purchased 10 years ago, used on many pieces and they still have a long time to go.