Question: Do old tools rust faster?

[Frederick Skelly]

Yesterday I re-tuned the bottom of my MF #9 to remove a very slight depression in front of the mouth, taking it all the way through 320 grit. The entire sole is very flat now and the tool FINALLY takes a full width shaving. Im really excited and pleased. (Got motivated to try again after following Kees' "Sacriledge" thead last week.) Now Im trying to figure out how to keep it from rusting.

I tried mineral oil previously. It works fine on new tools like my block plane. But it doesnt seem to work as well on my old planes. I quickly get a very light film of what looks like rust - so thin its almost a discoloration. So yesterday, I carefully waxed all my new and old planes with Johnson Paste Wax, after searching the archives for another solution. This morning, the old planes are showing that rust-like film again.

I recall that new planes are a different metal compound than old ones (ductile iron?). Im guessing thats part of it. But Im wondering:

1) Does anyone else experience this rapid oxidation, rusting or whatever it is, on your old tools but not your new ones?

2) How do you prevent or at least reduce it?

Thanks in advance guys. Have a very Happy Easter!
Fred

[george wilson]

Since ductile iron consists of cast iron that has had some of the high carbon content burned out by sustained exposure in high temperature ovens to make it softer,I'd think that the ductile iron would be less prone to rusting. High carbon content adds to easier rusting.

Old time machinists(and me also) kept their tools in tool boxes with small lumps of camphor in them. The camphor slowly evaporates,keeping oxygen off of the tools,or perhaps depositing continually a thin coating of camphor oil. It might be more the latter as I always noticed a slightly greasy feel on tools kept in such chests with camphor.

You used to could buy little cakes of camphor in the drug store. But,like so many things,not any more. It can be ordered on the internet. Be sure the tool box is reasonably air tight .

[Matthew N. Masail]

I wonder if some kind of cold-blue or browning solution might help.

[Steve Voigt]

Fred, is the film developing on an old surface, or on one that you've freshly sanded? If it's the latter, are you cleaning the plane thoroughly after sanding, but before oiling? If not, the dust that you've forced into the pores of the iron is probably oxidizing and mixing with the oil to create the film you're seeing.
Whatever the cause, I doubt that rust will continue to spread as long as you keep the tool dry and oil it occasionally, so I wouldn't be too concerned.

[Sam Stephens]

i prefer a heavy coat of either wd-40 or a light grade machine oil like 3 in 1 on plane soles and other tools immediately after cleaning. Rapid rust is pretty common IME. Not sure if this is residual metal dust or not. I've tried paste and paraffin waxes and been displeased to say the least -perhaps they need to be worked into the pores? Never tried the snake oil touted in the mags, but I'd guess they'd perform similar to my choices above. FWIW, my tools are in a non-ACd garage in NC -not the most humid, but certainly ranks up there for trouble.

[Stanley Covington]

In general, newer steels contain scrap metal content with higher amounts of chrome and nickle than did older steel, which contained more virgin iron ore, and so should rust less, theoretically.

If your planes are still rusting after applying mineral oil, I suspect they are contaminated with something acidic or salty. Maybe sweat from your hands, or air-borne salt, or chlorine. To neutralize this, make a solution of either washing soda or washing borax (20 Mule Team, for example) in distilled water (tap water contains chlorine). Add a few drops of Tide liquid laundry soap (not dishwashing soap, which is acidic). Disassemble your planes, and vigorously scrub the sides and soles with this solution. Wipe each plane dry as soon as you are done, but do not rinse. Use paper towel to remove any water from screw holes too. Let it air dry, then coat with Corrosion Block, if you can find it at a Marine Supply retailer. Let this sit for 24 hrs, then coat with CRC 3-36. If there is surface rust, wet sand with 400 wd sandpaper and CRC. Wipe clean and recoat. Let the screw holes dry thoroughly before reassembly.

The metal should be clean of corrosion inducing chemicals now, and sealed. Corrosion Block is very good at getting water out of the pores and then sealing them, but is not good for long-term. CRC 3-36 comes in a spray can, is non-stinky, non-sticky, handy, very effective at preventing rust, and won't stain wood.

Make an oil pot and soak T-shirt cloth with lightweight synthetic motor oil. 5W Mobile 1 or Royal Purple are great. When you are done using the plane for a time, or need to lube the sole, wipe it with the oil pot. The oil won't hurt wood at all. I know the idea of using motor oil is strange, but no other lube has had more attention and development than these racing-grade synthetic motor oils. They don't oxidize, stink, discolor, evaporate, or run away from metal (surface tension).

Avoid touching the sole or sides with your bare hands, especially if you are sweating. Not always possible, of course.

George referred to camphor blocks. The modern equivalent is moth balls. MBs were originally developed not for keeping bugs out of clothes, but to keep bugs, rats and rust out of sealed up and "mothballed" ships. They vaporize forming a gas that is unkind to bugs, mildew, vermin, and IRS employees, and that coats metal with a rust-inhibiting film. The expensive VCI rust prevention products, also developed for the US Navy originally, use this principle effectvely. A few of these in a toolbox (airtight is best) will really help prevent rust.

But I doubt it will keep the IRS out indefinitely.

Stan

[Simon MacGowen]

Have you ever tried Dupont Telfon lubricant which resists water and gives a nice coating. Silicone free and safe for woodworking tools: http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubr..._dry_film.html About $7. I use it on both power tools (tablesaw gear, saw blades, drill bits, etc.) and hand tools.

Much much cheaper than Bostik products but as equally effective, if not more. WD40 repels water but doesn't stay on a service long enough for rust protection.

Simon

[Larry Frank]

In general, I would think that any surface that has been machined such as the sole of a plan will not have any carbon loss. It is really hard to make any guess without knowing exactly what type of cast iron and how it has been treated. If there is any carbon burned out it could make a place for moisture to stay and result in some corrosion.

As a metallurgist, the relatively low amount of chrome an nickel in "newer steel" will not "theoretically" make any difference to corrosion levels. The steel making shops that use scrap metal are very careful about the amount of chrome and nickel in scrap and save the scraps that have any elevated level for use in grades that call for those elements. In addition, during the steelmaking process, some of the chrome is oxidized out of the liquid steel because of oxygen blowing so the levels are typically not very high.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks guys. I wasnt smart enough to clean the freshly polished surfaces before waxing. Im betting thats the place to start and if it doesnt work Ill try your other suggestions.

I appreciate the help.
Fred