Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Doing this out of solid wood I would use the grain orientation as shown in Johnny's drawing. It is essentially continuous grain which allows the entire top to move as a unit without needing to compensate other than how it is secured to the base.
You might consider 1/2 lapping the joints for future disassembly. The center section overlaying the 2 side pieces. They could be pulled together from underneath with screws going into threaded inserts. These fastenings could be very small as they would only be used to keep the 3 sections in plane. The flanking bases would be doing all the heavy lifting.
Here is a terrible photo of a very nice walnut top that was grain oriented this way. In this case however the joints are secured and aligned with dominos and are solidly glued together.
Top-Side-Walnut-top.jpg
"... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
WQJudge
Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
This gizmo.I guess it is called a "Furniture Connector". I clamp my mating pieces together, then drill a pilot hole through both pieces. Use the pilot hole to drill out to the desired diameter on each piece, hey presto, connected. I started using them years ago when joining the face frames of bookcase runs and wanted something unobtrusive. Don't ask me where I found them, because I had to buy like a hundred of them a few years ago and haven't sourced them in a while.
David
Here is an image I found of the idea I was trying to demo with the sketchup
cornerdesk.jpg
Not many like this though. The other approach is much more typical.
I agree with Al to the extent that I see that form as a trendy anomaly that will soon be declared passé . Not so sure about the schway thing, but much better to be facing something other than a corner. It's ok to have an "L" shape desk but I
think a non corner seat with desk out in the floor works better, even in a small room.
I've built a couple of computer tables using 3 sections in an "L". I simply cut some steel rod for use as dowels. I put two on each end of the middle section and simple inserted them without glue. I've never had any issue with the sections pulling apart and it allows them to be broken down should the table ever need to be moved. The tables I built were all oak but it should work with any hardwood. I also built them without the center section coming to a point. That has seemed to work better to deal with out of plumb walls as well as provide a place to run wires.
Dan
One thing to consider is that the splay form made a lot more sense when monitors where 20" deep. It allowed you to park the monitor in the corner and still have desktop space in front of it. With the advent of flat screens, the splay now just creates a large unreachable area in the corner. An L shape actually yields more usable real estate, while using less floor space.
I align the top sections with biscuits glued into one side and then use these top latches HERE. These are not the exact ones I used but look very similar. The corner desk is outdated as mentioned. I mean, if that is what you want then have at it, but feel free to get creative.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "You don't have to give birth to someone to have a family." (Sandra Bullock)