Pine finishing

[Bob Savage]

I've got some of what my vendor calls Carribean Heart Pine, and it's gorgeous but seems to be very oily based upon its weight and the residue it left on my sanding drum.

How would you recommend that I finish this? It doesn't seem like it would absorb much oil (though I could be wrong) and because it seems oily (full of sap?), I'm concerned about how lacquer would adhere.

Any advice?

Thanks,

Bob

[Prashun Patel]

What are you making?
I'd be concerned about that residue.

[Bob Savage]

What are you making?
I'd be concerned about that residue.

A plaque with an 8" x 10" picture in the center. The edges will be routed, some carved text and possibly an inlaid piece of Pao Ferro or some other wood which will also have carved text on it.

[David Eisenhauer]

Maybe seal with dewaxed shellac first? Then topcoat?

[Bob Savage]

Maybe seal with dewaxed shellac first? Then topcoat?

Thanks David. I've been looking around and it seems dewaxed shellac alone is a recommendation because most finishes won't stick. Not exactly what I wanted to hear but you've got to listen to the wood.

[John TenEyck]

Once you apply a coat of dewaxed shellac you should be to apply any clear coat you want over that, including lacquer.

John

[Bob Savage]

Once you apply a coat of dewaxed shellac you should be to apply any clear coat you want over that, including lacquer.

John

That is excellent! Thanks John. Sounds like I have a plan.

[Steve Schoene]

Jofn is correct that you could apply other top coats over the dewaxed shellac. But for a decorative plaque shellac by itself would be an excellent finish fully durable enough. Shellac doesn't darken over time and is good at resisting the transfer of water vapor.

[Bob Savage]

Jofn is correct that you could apply other top coats over the dewaxed shellac. But for a decorative plaque shellac by itself would be an excellent finish fully durable enough. Shellac doesn't darken over time and is good at resisting the transfer of water vapor.

Thanks Steve. I like this approach too because it's simpler.

[David Eisenhauer]

Rule of Thumb - Dewaxed shellac sticks (can be applied over) to any kind of finish and any kind of finish can be applied over shellac.This allows you to mix oil based and water based finishes as long as you separate them with the dewaxed shellac. Shellac (waxed kind usually) was the furniture industry finish of choice before the very fast drying NCL (nitro cellulose lacquer) was introduced to the industry. Most older furniture from the earlier 20th century (US manufacture) had a shellac finish. Depending on your age, you may remember the "white ring" on furniture surfaces resulting from putting wet glasses on the furniture and getting yelled at by your Mom for doing so. That was shellac allowing moisture to creep under the finish and creating a "cloudy ring". Fix was/is to put a warm, drying pad/item over the ring to get rid of the moisture/white ring. Shellac is a very nice looking finish, just not a durable finish for heavy use/wetter environment areas like kitchens and bathrooms. I think your plaque would look great with a shellac finish. Generally speaking (without getting into "French padding"), shellac is another one of those finishes that benefits from multiple, thin layers and is easy to work with. Best of luck.

[Bob Savage]

That is awesome info, thank you very much David! Shellac it is. Oh, and yeah, I remember the white ring. Never knew what caused it.