Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Slotting a saw handle

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Mt Jackson, VA
    Posts
    309

    Slotting a saw handle

    I'm putting my first backsaw together and have a couple of questions regarding the kerf size in the handle I'm making. My new plate is .025" thick so I'm assuming that would be the ideal size kerf to make in the new handle. If I use my new plate to cut the kerf it will be 0.30" thick due to the set already on the plate. Is this too sloppy for a good fit?

    My only other saws are panel, dovetail, and a small gents saw all with kerfs way off from my new plate. I was thinking of taking my calipers to the borg and getting a cheap saw just to slot the handle if I can find the right size. Anybody run into the same problem as me?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
    Posts
    27,484
    Blog Entries
    1
    One trick is to make the slot in the handle before you set the teeth.

    Here is my post on building a back saw:

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...Back-Saw-Build

    In your case you might try cutting a kerf on a piece of scrap and see how it does. You could also try shimming it with plane shavings if it is loose.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Mt Jackson, VA
    Posts
    309
    Thanks Jim. I hadn't thought of the plane shavings. I bought the plate sharpened already, but in the future I'll be using one without set.

  4. #4
    Just try the plate in scrap. I've always used a separate saw that tested well with the plate, one that cut well and had set. A tighter fit (not one so tight that you have to force the saw in, but one where you don't have a funny looking fit) is always nicer.

    At any rate, any scrap you have laying around will tell you whether or not it will look good, just try it and look at the fit on scrap after you've cut the scrap to the depth of the cheeks where the cut stops on a saw.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Mt Jackson, VA
    Posts
    309
    I figured as much Dave. I'm just being lazy tonight. I'm going to make a couple of test cuts tomorrow.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Mt Jackson, VA
    Posts
    309
    It turns out my dovetail saw provided the best fitting slot. I used the technique in the picture to get my kerf established nice and straight and then clamped the handle in a vice and finished off the cut. I read about it somewhere and it seemed like the best method for me to use. I had some scrap pieces of laminate laying around and used one as my last shim to slide the handle on. It worked out really well and wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it might be.
    Attached Images Attached Images

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •