Current Table Saws any safer than older table saws?

[Rod Sheridan]

There are several safety improvements that have happened since the invention of the tablesaw

- blade guard with dust collection ( finger and lung protection)

- riving knife or splitter

- better in cabinet dust collection ( Lung safety)

- 3 function rip fence

- format style sliding table

- blade braking during saw shutoff (Not SawStop type technology)

- flesh sensing technology coupled with microsecond blade braking (Sawstop)

Note that with the exception of SawStop many of the above safety features are a century old, the most recent aside from SawStop is about 50 years old.

The issue is that the North American style saw hasn't really changed in the last 50 years, while other designs have improved.

Many of the above features such as overhead dust collection, and 3 function rip fence can be added to any saw with a bit of ingenuity...........Regards, Rod.

[Charles Li]

Charles - Are you looking for a full size stationary saw or a portable? I ask because a full size generally represents better value, more upgrade potential, and tend to be safer by way of having more mass, much better stability, and considerably more operating space in front of the blade. I would only look into a portable if you need to stow it on a shelf or move it from jobsite to jobsite.

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I don't think I can commit the space for a cabinet saw right now. Still trying to carve out storage vs workshop.

[Charles Li]

Been reading a few books and watching safety videos. Going to look for a class as well. I don't have any WW buddies but feel confident I have enough resources (like this forum!) to do things right. Probably pulling the trigger on the Bosch.

[Rod Sheridan]

Been reading a few books and watching safety videos. Going to look for a class as well. I don't have any WW buddies but feel confident I have enough resources (like this forum!) to do things right. Probably pulling the trigger on the Bosch.

The Bosch is a good portable saw............Regards, Rod.

[Ronald Blue]

Here is a possibility for you Charles. It will help you decide if you want to invest in more expensive tools and give you an idea what tools you want or need. This link is in the Chicago CL.
chicago.craigslist.org/chc/off/4450243900.html

[Doug Hobkirk]

Or maybe get a track saw system? The material doesn't move, instead you move the saw over the top of the material. Much safer, IMO. I am too poor for a Festool setup, but I am very impressed with how well my EZ system works. I have a "saw table" that's about 4'x2' on top, the track is attached by a pivot at both ends, and the piece to be cut is slipped under the track. The weight of the saw and track effectively clamps the work piece down. I have a longer track and another support "table" when I want to cut large panels, like a 4x8.

Just another idea.

I still occasionally use my table saw. When I do use it, it definitely feels more dangerous.

[scott spencer]

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I don't think I can commit the space for a cabinet saw right now. Still trying to carve out storage vs workshop.

Keep in mind that a cabinet saw and hybrid take up the same footprint, which is actually less space than an older style contractor saw with an outboard motor. It isn't until you add fences with extra ripping capacity that the footprint increases on either. I'll reiterate that a full size stationary saw is inherently safer to use than a portable.

[Charles Li]

Here is a possibility for you Charles. It will help you decide if you want to invest in more expensive tools and give you an idea what tools you want or need. This link is in the Chicago CL.
chicago.craigslist.org/chc/off/4450243900.html

Wow that is awesome and not far from me! I was trying to find some classes at the community college and village but came up with nothing. Maybe WW isn't as popular as it used to be? That looks like a great place and will definitely check it out. Thanks.

[Charles Li]

Or maybe get a track saw system? The material doesn't move, instead you move the saw over the top of the material. Much safer, IMO. I am too poor for a Festool setup, but I am very impressed with how well my EZ system works. I have a "saw table" that's about 4'x2' on top, the track is attached by a pivot at both ends, and the piece to be cut is slipped under the track. The weight of the saw and track effectively clamps the work piece down. I have a longer track and another support "table" when I want to cut large panels, like a 4x8.

Just another idea.

I still occasionally use my table saw. When I do use it, it definitely feels more dangerous.

I've been doing the standard circular saw jig and kreg rip for sheets of plywood. I'm doing that insulating foam technique to hold the pieces as well which I agree makes it feel safe. Obviously not a real track saw but good enough results with my cheapo circular saw. The only annoying thing is no dust collection. However, I wanted to rip a 2x4 in half and as far as I could figure, the only way I could do that with my current setup would be screwing it to a larger piece. The narrow and smaller cuts seem impossible (or just a bad idea?).

[Charles Li]

Keep in mind that a cabinet saw and hybrid take up the same footprint, which is actually less space than an older style contractor saw with an outboard motor. It isn't until you add fences with extra ripping capacity that the footprint increases on either. I'll reiterate that a full size stationary saw is inherently safer to use than a portable.

I guess when I think cabinet I think it's hard to move. Is that not necessarily the case? I don't need portability in the sense of going to a job site but there will be times it needs to be moved out of the way. Probably more often that I want.

[Cary Falk]

I guess when I think cabinet I think it's hard to move. Is that not necessarily the case?

Not the case at all.I have to move mine every time I want to use it.

[glenn bradley]

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I don't think I can commit the space for a cabinet saw right now. Still trying to carve out storage vs workshop.

Right, common misconception. Cab saw generally has a smaller footprint than a contractor saw with equivalent capacity due to the motor not hanging out the back. It will be larger than a jobsite saw with a universal motor.

[scott spencer]

I guess when I think cabinet I think it's hard to move. Is that not necessarily the case? I don't need portability in the sense of going to a job site but there will be times it needs to be moved out of the way. Probably more often that I want.

A cabinet saw will be heavier to move than a portable, but they're still pretty easy to move around with a mobile base. Well worth the slew of advantages gained by skipping the portable....other than portability, every aspect of using a saw is generally nicer to do and likely more accurate with a cabinet saw than a portable.

I honestly don't believe that a small portable saw with a riving knife is safer than a full size saw that has a splitter. Consider the "landing zone" where the wood settles before contacting the blade. With a full size saw you get in excess of 12" of operating space. With a portable you're lucky to get half that, meaning that hands are inherently closer to the blade, and there's simply less of a buffer zone. Add to the equation the sheer mass of a full size cast iron saw, vs a portable....it's match of 50-75# vs 250-550#. I don't know of anyone who's knocked over a full size saw, it's much, much easier and more probably to have a 60# saw move in the middle of a cut. I don't feel that modern safety devices overcome the inherent safety advantages of having a larger saw. Add those modern safety devices to a larger saw, and you've got the best of both worlds. I realize there are many workarounds and common sense tricks that a seasoned veteran can do to keep a smaller saw reasonably safe....I'm just stating the case for saving the smaller saws for situations when they're the only viable option.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Strongly prefer the cabinet saw because the motor and such are inside the cabinet so it is not sitting out where it might catch on something (or someone).

I would not use a table saw without a riven knife or something to keep the wood from totally closing on the blade (since even with my modest use I have had that occur a few times). I suppose that to be fair, even with the riven knife, proper feeding technique is a huge help to avoid the kick back while you smack the "stop the saw" button. So, as already stated, no simple push stick.

I am fond of those dust guards and such that keep my hands away from the blade... My hands have hit it at least once or twice, which means i was getting kind of close anyway.

The newer saws usually have better dust collection, which is important for me and where I use my saw (basement).

I opted for the sawstop, which I know is outside your budget at the moment. But, if you are able to somehow gain access to the primary safety features such as a riven knife / splitter, anti-kick back pawls, blade guard, etc. it will make a difference (in my opinion).

[David Kumm]

Don't let mobility be an issue. I'm 60 and move 2000 lb machines every day. 3000 is a deal breaker but 2K is a piece of cake and most steel body machines are way lighter than that. Dave