Waxing 10/4 cocobolo board for storage?

[Jim Neeley]

I recently picked up a beautiful piece of coco about 24" long by 10" wide in coco. The ends were sealed with some form o wax but the faces are exposed and I'm seeing a hint of surface checking in this tropical wood.

Since it may be a year or so until I get ready to use it, I'd like to seal the faces as well to reduce the effects due to seasonal humidity changes. I'm thinking something akin to the wax on ebony. Should I melt and pour paraffin over it or? Somehow applying hot wax doesn't sound right.

Jim

[Chuck Darney]

I can't imagine it checking on the faces. Are you sure they're checks and not the grain?

The wood is very oily. Just wipe a dry rag across the face and see what comes up. If you haven't used cocobolo before, be careful. Some people are sensitive to it or develop a sensitivity like I did. The oily orange dust will cover anything and everything. It will also contaminate any other woods you use it with.

I don't use it much anymore because of the above. It's a shame it's such a BEAUTIFUL wood.

...Chuck

[Scott Holmes]

There is a product called Anchor Seal that works well

[steve worcester]

The reason the ends are waxed and not the face is the ends are open pores. Think of it as a bundle of straws. The ends are end grain, the sides are face grain. End grain is open and looses moisture at a rate much higher than the face. The idea behind proper drying it is to allow it to dry at a rate where the radial and tangential loose moisture to allow it to dry without cracking. Sounds easy until you research the ratio at which the wood dries. Only mesquite drys at a 1:1 ratio. The rest becomes personal rocket science based on your area and the temperature and humidity levels of your environment.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

I've never seen a rosewood thicker than 2 inches that didn't surface check.

[Jim Neeley]

Thanks, guys! :-)