How to make laminate flush with edging?

[lowell holmes]

You know, the small trim routers so popular today are an outgrowth of the laminate trimmers we used back in the 70's.

The "Formica" (that's what we called plastic laminate in those days) bits did a good job of trimming formica to an edge.

We even used 14" course mill bastard files to level the formica.

I feel like you are over thinking the issue. You can make a practice piece of top to see how it works before you commit to trimming it.

[Steve Menendez]

Maybe I'm misunderstanding the surface you are trying to trim, but would it be possible to flip the surface "upside down", so that the laminate rests on a flat surface, then install the edging against the same flat surface?

Steve.

[Art Mann]

Maybe I'm misunderstanding the surface you are trying to trim, but would it be possible to flip the surface "upside down", so that the laminate rests on a flat surface, then install the edging against the same flat surface?

Steve.

That is a good idea. What I did was clamp some guide blocks onto the formica work surface that protruded out over the edge and used those as a guide to rest the edge material against. I couldn't turn the laminate face down on a flat surface because I had already mounted the table top to the cabinet base. It just wasn't that much trouble to get it right.

Edit: Having seen Ken's top, I might do it that way if I need to do it again. That looks nice.

[Sam Murdoch]

Here is my kitchen counter top done as I described and as Ken did with his router table. You can see I just eased the edge of the laminate with a small round over bit.
Not better - just different.

ctop.jpg

[johnny means]

This is what I'm talking about. Pretty much standard operation in the countertop industry. The idea being to use pre finished edging in laminate tops.

[Kevin Post]

I agree with Ken and Sam when they advise applying the edging to the plywood then covering the whole thing with laminate is the easiest. The countertop fabricators do it this way and chamfer the edge as is shown in the photo of Ken's router table.

That said... When do we ever do anything the easy way. I applied the banding after (just like you want to) because I wanted to feature more of the hardwood edge than a chamfer would. I carefully applied masking tape to protect the laminate during sanding and machining then trimmed it flush using a router and pattern bit. It was not 100% flush yet.

I obtained the perfectly flush and finish-ready surface using a cabinet scraper to carefully clean everything up. If you've never used these, they're magical. Test your methods on a mock up first in case you have a no-cuss policy in your shop.

[johnny means]

In the industry the lam over option is the considered pretty cheesy. Its defeats the point of the wood edge. The wooden edge allows you to create a softer or fancier profiled edge. It is also a way to prevent chipping and lifting of the laminate. Neither of these objectives is achieved with a lam over.

[Mel Fulks]

Interesting observation, Johnny. Sam's method is so rarely used around here that I can't comment other than to say I
like it. Have done a lot of tops where the wood had to be hand leveled to the laminate,and I don't like that. I do think that
the industry always has a bias toward the more expensive option. Rounded wooden edges are more expensive but the rounded post formed edges are a sign of going cheap and square edges cost more. Makes no sense to me.

[Sam Murdoch]

In the industry the lam over option is the considered pretty cheesy. Its defeats the point of the wood edge. The wooden edge allows you to create a softer or fancier profiled edge. It is also a way to prevent chipping and lifting of the laminate. Neither of these objectives is achieved with a lam over.

But for a kitchen or bathroom counter where standing water is often an issue - the lam over method results in a seamless top and you still get a nice wood edge. No brainer for me - cheese I'm happy to eat .

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I would install the edging after the lamination. You can level the edging with a trim router and a pattern bit.

I have done this a couple of times, worked great. I own a Festool Router, an edge plate

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool...g-plate-486058

and the angle arm

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool...gle-arm-486052

IF you go there, they have a nice picture of how to use these to handle this with no problems. Where do you live? I am in Columbus Ohio... If you are close, I am happy to help you with this.

[Ian Scofield]

I have done this a couple of times, worked great. I own a Festool Router, an edge plate

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool...g-plate-486058

and the angle arm

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool...gle-arm-486052

IF you go there, they have a nice picture of how to use these to handle this with no problems. Where do you live? I am in Columbus Ohio... If you are close, I am happy to help you with this.

I live in WA, unfortunately nowhere close to where you live otherwise I'd take up your offer in a heartbeat. Looking at those festool pictures, that's of course exactly what I want. It's always the festool products...

I agree with Ken and Sam when they advise applying the edging to the plywood then covering the whole thing with laminate is the easiest. The countertop fabricators do it this way and chamfer the edge as is shown in the photo of Ken's router table.

That said... When do we ever do anything the easy way. I applied the banding after (just like you want to) because I wanted to feature more of the hardwood edge than a chamfer would. I carefully applied masking tape to protect the laminate during sanding and machining then trimmed it flush using a router and pattern bit. It was not 100% flush yet.

I obtained the perfectly flush and finish-ready surface using a cabinet scraper to carefully clean everything up. If you've never used these, they're magical. Test your methods on a mock up first in case you have a no-cuss policy in your shop.

Thank you for the tips/advice. I've never used a cabinet scraper before and this describes the process I think I'm going to go with to a T. I do want to show off the edge more than just a regular chamfer...but who knows after a quick mockup I may decide to laminate the whole top and chamfer the edges.

Do you have any recommendations for a cabinet scraper that you use?

[Chris Padilla]

Do you have any recommendations for a cabinet scraper that you use?

Cabinet scrapers are a dime a dozen. Just search online for some and pick up the cheapest. The key to a cabinet scraper is SHARPENING them so google that as well.

[Larry Browning]

I built my router table top like Ken F. did his. However if you are dead set on your design, I think the tongue and grove concept is good. But I think doing a spline would be easier, quicker, and more accurate. Install the laminate and trim flush to the top. Get yourself a slot cutting router bit and cut a 1/2 in deep slot centered in your top. Then without changing the depth of the bit in the router, cut the mating slot in your edging boards. Then make your splines out of 1/8" hardboard 15/16" wide. You should make a prototype like your pictures for practice. It should lineup perfectly. I used this method to join together cherry plywood. Of course the cherry veneer is thinner than paper so getting the edges aligned perfectly was a must. It worked great!.