Construction Grade Lumber for Furniture?

[Charles Li]

Firstly, I'm very new to woodworking so pardon my ignorance. However, I can't seem to find a straight answer for the viability of using construction grade lumber for furniture. It seems to be very popular to use 2x4's, pine boards, and the like for furniture in the DIY circles. There's a lot of plans from people like Ana White using affordable wood like this to make very useful pieces. I'd like to too! However, pretty much everything I read here says not to because of the instability of the wood. Basically, it in very short time it will warp, cup, or split leaving you with a useless piece. I find it hard to believe that all furniture is doomed to failure if built with construction grade material if it's this popular. I see work benches made out of 2x4's all the time (granted with a different top). It must be stable in some scenario. So that's my question. What scenario can you use construction grade lumber successfully? Just make sure it's dried out enough? Only use a specific type of pine? Are there certain finishes to avoid? Differences between indoor and outdoor? I'm in Chicago so I see both extremes with temperature and humidity. I don't need things to last a lifetime or look like the most gorgeous piece ever. But, I do like the idea of learning with cheaper material and getting something useful out of it for a good number of years. Thanks for any insight!

[Gary Petit]

Charles,

I have made a few pieces from construction grade lumber. I have made outdoor wheel barrow planters, kitchen tables, benches, etc. I have not noticed any warping or any splitting in the wood myself. I usually just look for the best lumber the big box stores carry. Now, pine is not the first choice of lumber I go to for outdoors. It does not stand up well to the elements. Rots very easily, that is why you use pressure treated lumber for outdoors. I have made some pieces of furniture out of that too. It really is what your prefer, and budget allows really. I enjoy using oak, cherry, walnut, cedar at making projects. I am from southern Wisconsin, so we get the same type of elements. Outdoors you want to use different types of finish, if you plan to go that route. Although, you can use construction pine, and paint the piece, and use it outdoors too. I have done that for a family member, and it is still standing today.

Hope that helps a little bit.

[Mike Heidrick]

Do what you want Charles. If you want to make a chair from a 2X, knock yourself out.

[Howard Acheson]

The biggest issue with construction lumber is that it is dried to a much higher equilibrium moisture content (EMC) than architectural lumber. The way around it is to carefully inspect the lumber before purchase. Check the mill stamping which should tell you the initial EMC. Understand that most construction lumber is dried only to about 18 to 20%. Furniture lumber is normally dried to about 6 to 8% EMC.

If you buy construction lumber expect to stack and sticker it in a dry location where there is some small amount of air movement through the stack.. Give it 3 - 6 weeks of drying before using it. It would also be a good idea to buy a wood moisture meter.

[Charles Li]

Charles,

I have made a few pieces from construction grade lumber. I have made outdoor wheel barrow planters, kitchen tables, benches, etc. I have not noticed any warping or any splitting in the wood myself. I usually just look for the best lumber the big box stores carry. Now, pine is not the first choice of lumber I go to for outdoors. It does not stand up well to the elements. Rots very easily, that is why you use pressure treated lumber for outdoors. I have made some pieces of furniture out of that too. It really is what your prefer, and budget allows really. I enjoy using oak, cherry, walnut, cedar at making projects. I am from southern Wisconsin, so we get the same type of elements. Outdoors you want to use different types of finish, if you plan to go that route. Although, you can use construction pine, and paint the piece, and use it outdoors too. I have done that for a family member, and it is still standing today.

Hope that helps a little bit.

I just made a side table and stained it with Thompson's water seal. It's my first foray into this but now wonder if it will make it through the summer lol. Sounds like painting will give the most longevity but I prefer the look of the stain. Guess I can't have it both ways with pine. I can store it under the deck in the winter not sure if that will help. I'm a bit leery of using pressure treated with the kids. They'll be leaving drinks and food on it. I want to make a bench for the driveway so sounds like I should consider paint as that will stay exposed. Thanks!

[Phil Thien]

I've made plenty of stuff from construction lumber, mostly for the shop (tool stands, etc.). I make a point of buying decent lumber when I see it, I like Doug-Fir quite a bit. Sometimes I can find vertical-grain Doug-Fir 2x4's and other dimensional lumber that is nearly defect-free. When I can find stuff that is free of defects, I buy it and let it sit in my shop until I'm ready for it. Construction lumber can have a higher moisture content, but honestly I've found it less reactive (moves less after I machine it) than hardwood I've used.

[Charles Li]

The biggest issue with construction lumber is that it is dried to a much higher equilibrium moisture content (EMC) than architectural lumber. The way around it is to carefully inspect the lumber before purchase. Check the mill stamping which should tell you the initial EMC. Understand the most construction lumber is dried only about 18 to 20%. Furniture lumber is normally dried to about 6 to 8% EMC.

If you buy construction lumber expect to stack and sticker it in a dry location where there is some small amount of air movement through the stack.. Give it 3 - 6 weeks of drying before using it. It would also be a good idea to buy a wood moisture meter.

The wood I just used for the side table sat for about a month and my cheapy moisture meter read around 9%. Hopefully that will be enough. Do you think a dehumidifier would help at all? This is just a residential type one you'd stick in a room. My "workshop" is 10x15 ish above ground so I'd think it could make a difference?

[jack forsberg]

much of the work i see on you tube is very rustic and put together with pocket hole screws. My self i don't see the point in using this wood for fine work when i can get real wood for not much more (about 50 cent more a foot). Most of what i see are pieces that take a weekend to build. That said not all constitution grade is the same wood . Theirs eastern white pine /fir/ red wood /cedar. and all of theses are better suited than the most common white spruce that is pron to gum pockets and warpage it a high level. spruce is good for stick framing. All i see as the reason is this wood is cheap and common at your home center. wood is cheap get the good stuff.

[Mike Olson]

Construction grade lumber is OK if you don't plan on slicing it up. If you keep full size 2x4 pieces and just cut to length then you shouldn't have much problem at all. Most of the 2x projects you see online are just that.

If you plan on cutting it up into thinner stock then try really hard to find Fir 2x4's They are orange/yellow in color and are SOOOOOOOO much better than the generic white 2x's
I have some pretty good experience now with slicing 2x4's into thin strips. The white Pine I tried to use I would actually see the pieces start to twist after putting a freshly cut piece down and all those little knots start cracking and splitting open.
The Fir acted fine, no twists and the few knots stayed intact.

if your interested in what I just built with a Fir 2x4 you can check it out here:



Also the Summers 2014 2x4 challenge just finished up. I think there were ~ 80 entries all made from 2x4's

[Prashun Patel]

Houses are framed with construction lumber. It'll make perfectly functional furniture.

The movement we all bemoan is an issue in making tight fitting joinery and keeping it perfectly straight.

If you build the aesthetic around this fact, it's quite possible to make nice, and appropriate furniture with it.

Shoot, I was in a restaurant in NYC yesterday where they used the cheapest, rawest wood on their tables. They didn't remove any milling marks, and they let it split right down the center. But they just built around it, emphasized it, and made it part of the look. Even to my prejudiced eye, I have to say it worked.

Try not to use 'green' wood; use only 'KD'.

[Mark Bolton]

While dimensional lumber (framing material) could be acceptable for a finished surface in certain areas I think one main thing to consider is that all the same issues apply. If your conscious of wood movement and build accordingly your results can be perfectly find and in some cases very nice. Lower grades, and less dry grades, of material are commonly used even in commercial furniture building however the use is appropriate to its condition. For instance a carcass for an upholstered piece of furniture can accommodate lesser quality materials. Other pieces can incorporate lesser quality secondary woods. And so on.

Of course if your thinking of building finish furniture out of framing lumber you'll have to allow for a substantial leap away from fine furniture but seeing as your OK with that have at it.

The bottom line is material selection, and an understanding of wood movement, are the most critical.

[Peter Kelly]

Shoot, I was in a restaurant in NYC yesterday where they used the cheapest, rawest wood on their tables. They didn't remove any milling marks, and they let it split right down the center. But they just built around it, emphasized it, and made it part of the look.

Also, that restaurant may or may not be there next week

[Rich Enders]

The extra cost of common furniture grade material over construction grade is almost incidental. You have to weigh this against your time.

[Shawn Pixley]

You can make functional furniture from construction lumber. The wood is strong and won't collapse in compression. Construction lumber around here is typically fir or pine in "Wet or Kiln Dried (KD)" grades. Both when bought would be too wet to use immediatly for fine or craftsman like joinery. I made utility pieces in my youth for shelving, utility tables, base for a futon mattress, etc. None of the pieces I would consider fine furniture.

Wet wood will shrink, bend, twist, cup and check. This is not all perefctly predictable. If you can afford to wait to sticker and dry it, everything will be better. For what it is worth, I have seen shows where the "builder" built pieces that stood an looked good for the pictures but I would be surprised if they lasted a few years without looking horrible or falling apart. Remember in these shows all it need to do is look good for the reveal.

if you are interested, go for it. You will learn a lot. If your expectations are modest, you will be proud to say,"I built this." There is a value there that everyone should have. There is a wealth of experience here happy to share. Just don't be unhappy if they don't confirm your opinion.

[william watts]

I am also thinking of using construction grade lumber for an outdoor bench. Our lumber yard has premium grade Douglas Fir 2X that has few knots and is straight. I would stack and sticker it in the rafters of the garage. Temperatures in this summer climate reach 100 on a regular basis. Temperatures in rafters of the garage I bet would get to 120. Humidity stays around 30%. Douglas Fir is listed as having moderate weather resistance and if it is maintained it should last a good longtime. Here is a pic of a bench I will try to duplicate, It has a brass plaque on the back stretcher that says 1984. I don,t know what kind of wood it is, but has not been maintained.