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Thread: SawStop or PM66?

  1. #1

    SawStop or PM66?

    I have an old Powermatic 66 that I'll be restoring soon. I also will soon be receiving a SawStop cabinet saw from a friend (long story). My question is- I'll find myself in the enviable position of having to choose which one of these fine saws to keep. This will be my 2nd saw- I have an SCMI slider that I use for most things. The 2nd saw will be set up facing the slider, with a shared outfeed table between.

    Do you consider the SawStop to be as good as the Powermatic? Other than the safety feature of the SawStop, one big advantage I see is the riving knife.

    I am a fan of old iron, and really love Powermatic, and hate the thought of replacing the PM66 with the Taiwanese made SawStop. But it may make sense.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
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    15,332
    SS without question.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Bainbridge Island, WA
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    I have owned a PM66 and a Unisaw, then bought a SS, I never looked back. Although I am a big fan of PM (3520 & a mint 141 BS), SawStop's are awesome.

    Best of luck!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Edmonton, Canada
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    2,479
    What version of SS is it? I think their ICS version is better than *any* other traditional cabinet saw of that size (note "size" and "cabinet saw").

  5. #5
    What version? I don't think it is the "industrial cabinet saw"- I think it is the professional cabinet saw. It is a few years old- it may be their first cabinet saw that they released.

    Tell me this- on a sawstop, do they provide a way to test that the flesh sensing mechanism is functioning without actually triggering the stop? I assume this thing has some rigorous start up tests that the computer does as it powers up.

    Another question- Over the years, I've learned to power all my electronics through a UPS, for the sole reason of protection from lightning surges and crappy power in general. I run all computers, stereo, tv, etc through a huge UPS in the basement.

    I'd be very nervous having the sawstop electronics exposed to the vagaries of the power lines. I guess the solution is to switch off the 220vac to the saw when not in use. I actually do this now- all my 220vac tools are powered through a huge switch, which also powers a big red light, so I know when everything is armed. I actually have an enormous UPS that puts out 220vac- I need to check that supplies enough current to run the SS. The batteries are toast, but all I care about is power conditioning and not running when the power goes away.

    I wonder if folks have had their sawstops fried from lighting hits?

    I don't think I'd have any sort of warranty on this saw.
    Last edited by Lynn Kasdorf; 06-02-2014 at 5:06 PM.

  6. #6
    The first saw from Sawstop was the ICS. You'll know it by its 30" deep table. It was designed to rival the 12" saws out there. I have one and can say that, even without the brake, it is better than any other 10" saw out there.

  7. #7
    BTW, it does constantly run diagnostics and has a flashing signal system to alert you to any issues. All you need to do to test the sensing mechanism is touch the blade with the saw off and you'll get a signal. Sawstop also has the best manual ever made which details all of this quite thoroughly.

  8. #8
    Also, for what it's worth, I'd rather worry about sensitive electronics and lightning strikes than amputation.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    I have a powermatic 66, its a fine saw, does its job, but I'd go saw stop for the safety and the riving knife personally given a choice. In fact if SS had been available when I bough the 66 I would have gone sawstop then. I used a saw stop for a while at a side job, I wasn't all goo goo for it, I don't consider it cut wise to be functionally above the competition, but its a good solid cabinet saw, and having the break is just a great asset should you ever need it. I look at it like this...If I had $4K I didnt know what to do with I'd put it in the kids college funds rather than take a bath on the 66 and buy a new sawstop, but I'f someone rolled a SS up to my shop door....I shake the old 66's hand, thank it for its service and fire off a crags list add.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Saw Stop definately. Two very good saws but one is better than the other.
    Shawn

    "no trees were harmed in the creation of this message, however some electrons were temporarily inconvenienced."

    "I resent having to use my brain to do your thinking"

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Boston
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    1,740
    I would keep the 66 and put a Forrest dado blade in it and keep it exclusively for dados and sell the saw stop if I could. I'm not sure how you got it but maybe it wouldn't look good if you sold it.
    Don

  12. #12
    Well, as I said, whichever I keep will be my 2nd saw, and will probably have a dado in it a lot of the time. Maybe I can arrange a 3 saw setup...
    The PM66 has 2 large cast iron wings- so it will have a lot of iron table to the right of the blade.
    The more I think about it, having a sawstop for doing general purpose stuff is appealing, especially since I have 12 and 14 year old boys that I hope will get interested in the woodshop before long. I'd feel better about them using the sawstop.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Edmonton, Canada
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    I don't think you'll regret keeping the Sawstop, especially if you want to have trainees in your shop...

  14. #14
    Sawstop customer support is top notch. I would factor that into the equation.

  15. #15
    I agree with SS hands down, two. Both hands and all fingers down.

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