Router Table Tops - Phenolic vs MDF

[George Bokros]

I am considering upgrading my router table with a new top and fence. I am considering whether the added cost of phenolic vs MDF (between $90 and $135, depends on what size Woodpecker top I choose) is worth it. I know a cast iron top is best but truthfully I don't know anyone that has a cast iron router table top.

Your thoughts?

Thanks

George

[Ken Platt]

Well, I have a cast iron top, got the biggest I could find, from Bench Dog IIRC. I like it. I figured, all my other tool tops are cast iron, why not the router table?

That said, before this I had a laminate one which slowly dished in the middle despite my attempts to shore it up. But it was inexpensive and served for many years just fine.

Ken

[Jamie Buxton]

MDF has a few drawbacks. Over time MDF sags, unless it is well-supported by the box below. MDF is soft, so it wears easily. MDF swells if it gets water on it.

MDF covered top and bottom with formica gets around most of those issues. But I have to admit mine sagged over the course of twenty years or so.

Cast iron top? Well, I'm somebody who has one. Peachtree, $240, is an extension wing on my Unisaw.

[Clay Fails]

I have the General International with cast iron top. I like it and would recommend you take a look at it. Very nice packsge with the fence, lift, etc.

[George Bokros]

I have a good lift, Woodpeckers Side Winder. I just really need a better fence but thinking that a new top would be good to add.

[George Bokros]

Does anybody have a phenolic router table top???


George

[Phil Thien]

Does anybody have a phenolic router table top???


George

Well the top of my lift is phenolic and it has worn terrifically. Personally, I'd make my own top. But if I was buying one, I certainly would pick the phenolic over the MDF.

Only warning is much of the phenolic I've purchased hasn't been flat. But I imagine Woodpeckers is using nice flat stuff.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

George
Have you seen my no sag router table top. IIRC it was about $50.00 plus. Tom http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...age+router+top

[Mike Heidrick]

Two layers MDF (glue and screw together), biscuit on an edge of 1.5" Oak, Laminate (bought a defect piece from menards for $10) the whole top. Cut out for teh router plate or lift. Attach to a table that has good supports. Works amazing and super cheap. That was my delta saws extension table - The saw fence was used to clamp on the router fence. I am sure the new owner still uses it.

[Don Huffer]

Well, I have a cast iron top, got the biggest I could find, from Bench Dog IIRC. I like it. I figured, all my other tool tops are cast iron, why not the router table?

That said, before this I had a laminate one which slowly dished in the middle despite my attempts to shore it up. But it was inexpensive and served for many years just fine.

Ken

I have a feeling I'm not going to be happy until my top is cast iron. God for you.

Don

[Don Huffer]

I saw a Corian top on a router table and will probably build my next one out of that. I have a router lift but it doesn't hang from the top. So sagging is not a problem.

Phenolic is a very good choice.

Don

[William C Rogers]

I have a phenolic top. I bought one of the JoinTech tops from the guy selling them on eBay. It had a minor blemish on the back side. I installed it in a old piece of hardboard similar to a solid wood door about two inches thick. It is very solid. My previous top was two pieces of 3/4 MDF with a Formica top. Worked fine but had a leak in the roof and the water got to the MDF running that top. I have never had a cast iron top so can't comment on that, but can tell you the phenolic is much better than the MDF. If phenolic, I would get one already machined for the lift. I wanted to be able to use a feather board and had to cut the slot in my top. Phenolic is tough and basically trashed that bit for the one slot.

[George Bokros]

Thanks for all the input. I have decided to get the phenolic top from Woodpeckers. I am not however purchasing the stand to go with it, instead will be using my existing stand / legs. With phenolic being so hard my plan is to mount the phenolic top to a piece of plywood using the per-drilled and tapped holes in the phenolic to attach the top to the ply then attach the ply to my existing stand / legs. This will be less expensive, WP leg set is for their larger top is $190, and allows me to recycle my existing stand / legs.

Does this sound like a good plan??

Thanks

George

[Don Huffer]

George
Be sure to just make it flat. But please don't get out the micrometer and feeler gauges. Research the best height for working. Router work is different than other work and for me I like it a bit higher than work bench and table saw. Just MHO.

Don

[George Bokros]

George
Be sure to just make it flat. But please don't get out the micrometer and feeler gauges. Research the best height for working. Router work is different than other work and for me I like it a bit higher than work bench and table saw. Just MHO.

Don

My current router table top is 1" thick. The phenolic is only 3/4" that plus the 3/4" ply will make the new top ~1/2" higher than the height of my current router table top.

My table saw is 3 1/2" higher than my router table now.



George