Building Window Frames & Sills

[Rich Riddle]

I recently purchased vinyl replacement sliding windows to install in a greenhouse via C-List. Now it's time to make the frames and sills. Does anyone have a quick link or advice for building the frames? The windows look very similar to the ones below. Thanks.

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[Peter Quinn]

Are these non flange windows? That's the view from the inside, I'm looking to see what's happening in the outside. By frame you mean exterior trim? Are you looking to pre attach an exterior trim package to in essence create a nailing flange for installation? Much depends on the site conditions of your structure, ie siding, framing, etc.

[Mark Bolton]

As Peter eluded to you've likely bought an inexpensive replacement window and the problem is now you have to build the non-existent "existing" window to put the replacement window into.

We run into this all the time where customers will go and buy several windows from a local manufacturers odd lots warehouse for what they think is a great deal (anywhere from $25-$100 depending on size) only to find that for us to build a proper frame and sill for such a window will cost far in excess of what a brand new flanged new construction window would cost.

It's only a greenhouse so you don't have to be too particular I suppose but if you are planning to build a proper frame and sill you are better off re listing these and buying a flanged new construction window rather than the replacent.

[Todd Burch]

Tell us (show us) exactly what you bought, with some pictures of the sashes and/or assembly, including fronts/backs/sides. Will these windows need to open?

Todd

[Mark Bolton]

Tell us (show us) exactly what you bought, with some pictures of the sashes and/or assembly, including fronts/backs/sides. Will these windows need to open?

Todd

A replacement window is just a square frame, no flanges or fins, made to specifically to fit into a pre-measured opening. That opening provides all fastening, weatherproofing, and so on other than a bead of caulk around the vinyl unit.

The easiest way we've found to make these windows work is to make a cheap 4/4 sill with horns. Frame the opening 1/4 - 3/8 wider than the unit and tall enough to accommodate the replacement and the sill while leaving the outside face of the unit flush with the exterior wall face. This means the framed sill will be slope/rolled. Then apply a flat casing on the two sides and the head. And caulk.

[Rich Riddle]

Fortunately I don't charge the wife labor or time charges for making things so that won't make it more cost beneficial to sell and purchase new construction windows. The windows will slide without any issues since they are already in tracks. I found link on how to quickly make the window frames so it won't present a problem. Thanks. Here is a picture of one of the windows by the way. They are all identical.

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[Mark Bolton]

I was referring building an actual frame and sill. Perhaps 6/4 all the way around, fabricating a true sill, and from a material that will compliment the decay resistance of the vinyl window you plan to install. Even if your labor is free the materials would likely cost what a new home center vinyl slider would cost. And of course the job would be done in 15 minutes with 12 roofing nails as opposed to the days to fabricate.

For a greenhouse all vinyl would be handy.

[Phil Thien]

So Rich, I'm curious how you're going to proceed here. Like, what kind of material you plan on using, and how you plan on building the frames?

I was looking at some window frames in a basement where I was installing some new light fixtures. They weren't very large but they were so simple I feel I could crank them out in 20-30 minutes each.

[Peter Quinn]

I'd still like to see the view from the exterior of these window. Is there a place to attach the trim? Are they vinyl clad FJP frames or straight extruded vinyl? You could make azek exterior casing with a built up sill, pocket screw the frames together, screw up from beneath the sill into the bottom of the frames to attach it, then use a high stretch adhesive urethan caulk and a few clamps to permanently attach these. If the price was right its not insurmountable to install them regardless. There are still "non-flange" but not replacement windows available, I did some Marvins like that last year, had to create a faux sill and trim it out, caulked and glued the trim on to give some weather resistance. Issue there was client had specific trim requirements that Marvin couldn't easily meet and had to match existing. If this is for an exterior green house I see it as a cosmetic issue, if this were for my home I'd dump them and get flange windows, there simply is no way to match the weather performance of a well flashed modern flange window. Windows are the primary source of water infiltration and damage in the building envelope after perhaps a failed roof, but roofs fail after decades, poorly installed windows begin to fail almost immediately.