Scored a free dewalt ras

[Dan Masshardt]

I brought this sucker home that I picked up for free.

Made right around the corned in Lancaster, PA. :-)


Now I have to get it switched back to 120 as I have no 240 in the shop yet.

There is a switch right on the side. Should I be okay to just change the plug or the wiring too?

[Myk Rian]

Flip the switch and put the pin in it.
Add a new plug.

[Michael Arruda]

Is that a GW? Great little saw. I use one for all my cross cutting at the shop. I will be selling it soon, not for lack of utility, but since I will be upgrading to a GP I have in storage. I'm moving and can't take both with me.

Get a good negative or no rake blade on there and it'll cut wonderfully. I started out with an MMB with a Diablo blade on it and couldn't figure out why it kept binding and jumping at me in the cut. Turns out it was the rake angle- with a positive rake, the blade was self feeding into the lumber. On the GW-I I have a Ridge Carbide blade on it that cuts wonderfully.

Check the bearings, get a good blade, make a Mr Sawdust table for it and do a proper alignment and she'll work for another 100 years. The carriage bearings are somewhat special convex bearings- I pulled mine, soaked in acetone for a couple days, then soaked in oil to relubricate. Works pretty smooth now.

Have fun,
Michael

[Harold Burrell]

I brought this sucker home that I picked up for free.

Man...you suck, big time.

[Dan Masshardt]

Flip the switch and put the pin in it. Add a new plug.

Thank you. That's what I needed to know. Sounds like it couldn't be much easier to switch back and forth. Nice job dewalt.

[Mark Bolton]

Don't see too many things on here that Im really envious of but gosh, that is a screamingly nice deal. Good for you man.

[Dan Masshardt]

Is that a GW? Great little saw. I use one for all my cross cutting at the shop. I will be selling it soon, not for lack of utility, but since I will be upgrading to a GP I have in storage. I'm moving and can't take both with me. Get a good negative or no rake blade on there and it'll cut wonderfully. I started out with an MMB with a Diablo blade on it and couldn't figure out why it kept binding and jumping at me in the cut. Turns out it was the rake angle- with a positive rake, the blade was self feeding into the lumber. On the GW-I I have a Ridge Carbide blade on it that cuts wonderfully. Check the bearings, get a good blade, make a Mr Sawdust table for it and do a proper alignment and she'll work for another 100 years. The carriage bearings are somewhat special convex bearings- I pulled mine, soaked in acetone for a couple days, then soaked in oil to relubricate. Works pretty smooth now. Have fun, Michael

Thanks for all the info. Yes it's a gw.

I had no idea about rake on a blade. I had an old craftsman that would self feed like that.

How can I tell if the blade is negative or no rake?

I'm guessing the cheaper blades are all positive rake?

[Dan Masshardt]

Don't see too many things on here that Im really envious of but gosh, that is a screamingly nice deal. Good for you man.

I'll tell you what - it's a shame nobody has any appreciation for these. It was on Craigslist for $50.

Emailed and turned out I know the guy. He says that he needs it out of the garage just come take it.

No other interest in almost a week. For. $50.

[ShawnE Curry]

That's a great saw. I restored my grandfather's MBF earlier this year - the baby brother of your saw. Get the Mr. Sawdust book: http://mrsawdust.com/. Tells you all you need to know about restoring and realigning the saw, and a trick or three for operating it. OWWM is a good resource as well http://www.owwm.org/.

[John TenEyck]

I paid $150 for a GW-I about 20 years ago, and have never regretted it. I replaced the motor and arm bearings at that time, and just replaced the motor bearings again last year. It's a wonderful machine and gets used for all my precision cross cutting work. As nice as the factory base is, it was too small for my work so I made a new frame and installed it on an 8 foot long bench. What a pleasure it is to use. I used Dewalt's Owner's Manual to align the saw and found it very straight forward.

That was a great score. Enjoy it.

John

[Dan Masshardt]

I can't turn this thing on. Is there a key or something that goes on the top right?

[John TenEyck]

I can't turn this thing on. Is there a key or something that goes on the top right?

There is a key on the smaller MBW, I think it is, but I didn't know of any on the GW. But if there is, it'll be pretty obvious, sort of a metal box on the right side of arm, power wire coming in and going out, and a hole where the key goes. You can either try to find a replacement over at OWWM, or just bypass it. I'd bypass it at least for now so you can get it running, even if you intend to make it all original later.

John

[Brian Gumpper]

That is a great deal. I have a 10" GW with a 1" arbor and as much as I love that saw, just don't use it. Will be up for sale soon.

[ShawnE Curry]

Attachment 291678image.jpgimage(1).jpeg

Here's a couple pics of the key on my MBF. They're not easy to come by - I'd check with your friend to see if he still has it. If not, check ebay - there are guys who part out these saws, so check there for any parts you need. I lost my key for a while when I transported the saw from my parents barn to my basement workshop; luckily my dad found it in the snow outside the barn. So I had to bypass the switch for a while - took some pics of how the wires were hooked up, and then rewired it to a regular light switch I had kicking around. It's about the worst placement for a switch though - who wants to reach all the way to the back of the saw while the blade is running? I picked up a cheap equipment on/off switch, and wired it to that. I left the key switch in place on mine though, since the key was found; so now it simply serves as a lockout key.

[Dan Masshardt]

Here's a couple pics of the key on my MBF. They're not easy to come by - I'd check with your friend to see if he still has it. If not, check ebay - there are guys who part out these saws, so check there for any parts you need. I lost my key for a while when I transported the saw from my parents barn to my basement workshop; luckily my dad found it in the snow outside the barn. So I had to bypass the switch for a while - took some pics of how the wires were hooked up, and then rewired it to a regular light switch I had kicking around. It's about the worst placement for a switch though - who wants to reach all the way to the back of the saw while the blade is running? I picked up a cheap equipment on/off switch, and wired it to that. I left the key switch in place on mine though, since the key was found; so now it simply serves as a lockout key.

I only see one pic but thanks very much for all the info. Hmmm. I was thinking last night about one of those safety switches on the front of the saw.

It looks like that switch could possibly be replaced with a new keyed or toggle switch. ?