Serious Ultimate Gouge -my perspective

[Jeff Gilfor]

This flute design looks remarkably similar to the 10V Hurricane gouge i picked up recently as a trial. I really love the way it cuts.

I suspect that these Serious gouges will be a wonderful addition to my little arsenal of tools if/when I get to buying more. Right now, Doug Thompson's steel is lasting long enough to preclude needing replacements for many many months to come.

I do like the end-to-end fluting idea. Very useful to allow flipping it around to go from roughing to finishing cuts, or from walls to bottoms.

[Roger Chandler]

Back when I first joined SMC and the next year or two, there were always tool discussions and such on different threads........posters in our turning community were quick to share a new tool they acquired and how well it was working for them, or in some cases dissatisfaction........many a dollar was saved by the knowledge imparted by these reviews, and more experienced turners were helping newbies and less experienced turners avoid mistakes and maximize their value on dollars spent for tools.

I just wanted everyone to know, that it is in this same spirit I posted this review...........sometimes we simply get used to looking at things one way, and that is okay, but in doing so, we can miss some really beneficial innovations and quality ..............if this thread helps you in some way, that is my hope!

[Reed Gray]

The terms for flute shape are confusing. I like John's description of the sides being more oval. Some V shapes are way too pointy, like the old Glaser I have. Just don't like them. I have some older Oneway gouges that are more parabolic. The Thompson V are pretty open, and the U is more of a semicircle, not even a U or C. I picked up one of Lyle Jamieson's parabolic fluted gouges, and it is more open than most. Now, what really gets me is that some times on one piece of wood, one tool will give a great cut, but not on the next. I switch flute shapes, and another tool works better. No idea why. I do prefer to roll my gouges over on the side 45 to 90 degrees, and prefer the more open fluted designs, because there is a larger sweet spot. Some prefer to have the flutes more up, and cut in the nose, just slightly on the uphill/against the wood side. I think this is the Ellsworth method. This one makes me nervous....

robo hippy

[Bill Wyko]

I just purchased a Jool Tool sharpening system so now my Glaser Synergy gouge is sharpened on a flat plane vs the curve of my wet sharpener. i have to say, my gouge seems to hold an edge much, much longer and seems to make a better cut. I've only turned 2 bowls and a grip for an airplane brake handle but it's still not even close to needing a sharpening. This grind is slightly less than an Elsworth shape.
jooltool1.jpgjooltool.jpg

[Dale Miner]

Some prefer to have the flutes more up, and cut in the nose, just slightly on the uphill/against the wood side. I think this is the Ellsworth method. This one makes me nervous....

robo hippy

Nervous? Yeah, me too. I cringe when I see that presentation. It works until it oops, and when it oops, it is a big OOPS!

[robert baccus]

Concerning the steels mentioned above it is my understanding that V10 and powdersteels are superior to M2 AND m4bECAUSE THE 2& 4 REFERS TO THE VANDIUM %. anything HIGHER THAT 4% REQUIRES POWDERING AND MOULDING TO STAY TOGETHER. It will not melt together. Also these high vanadium steels are not necessarily harder but only wear resistant. Chipping would be the product of poor tempering and not additives. I like U shape also but use both shapes.

[Thom Sturgill]

One question not addressed so far - If you look at a Thompson versus a D-Way you will see ridges in the flute of the Thompson that Dave polishes out. IMHO, these ridges have to effect the shape of the cutting edge and possibly the surface being cut. Where does the Serious tool fall in that spectrum?

With my older M2 gouges I would sand the inside of the flute when I got the gouge and maybe again later after I had used some of the tip. With Thompsons that seemed futile, the steel was harder than the sandpaper, not sure about M42, that gouge was already polished.

On a side note, there was a video posted recently where Doug gave a talk to a club and he discusses Vanadium and Powder Metal. M42 (what D-Way uses) has, I believe, 1% Vanadium and an added 8% cobalt, and 9-10% Molybdenum as well as other things. Doug also discusses flute shape, claiming that a straight V when ground to a slight curve gives an almost identical edge to a parabolic flute ground straight (Ellsworth) .

[Jeff Gilfor]

I have taken to polishing the flutes of my Thompson gouges. I use an abrasive rubber wheel on a grinder, then leather stropping wheel and polishing compound.

Doesn't make me a better turner, but I do think that the tool finish is much better, especially when combined with flat (not hollow ground) sharpening that I've switched to recently. The jury is still out though. Really need a good six months to say for sure.

It seems obvious though that, if the flute has ridges, then so will the sharpened edge. Ridges might be good in potato chips, but not on turning tool edges.

[Ralph Lindberg]

Jeff is correct, only you probably need to hone the flute of even a D-Way. Since the act of sharpening leaves a burr.
You probably don't need to hone all the way up the flute, at least when you sharpen.
I have a chunk of maple screwed to a face-plate, with various sized beads turned on it. Each of the beads has buffing compound (a black compound for steels) worked into the wood.
Of course I hold the chisel UNDER the buffing block, so the action goes away from me and the tool would be pulled out of my hands and away from me, when (not if) something bad happens.

[John Keeton]

We have drifted off topic, but with a lot of great information. Roger did a good review and for the sake of those that may search the forum for matters being covered here, I am going to close this thread and as soon as Ms. Keeton gets thru on our computer, I will start a new thread regarding some of the topics being mentioned. Not sure if I can move any of the posts, but I will try.

That way, this review stands on its own and the other information can be collected in another thread.