Any good books on dovetailed infill planes?

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I really want to build a dovetailed infill plane out of bronze and steel so that the dovetails show. I found some great tutorials online, but searching for a book didn't yield any books specific to this type of plane making. I am wondering if any of you can steer me to a good book. The main thing I want to read about is if there are any recommendations on which metals to use. I have seen brass as well as bronze sides with steel bottoms. To me brass and steel would cause galvanic corrosion. I also just want to read up on various ideas or techniques.

[Zander Kale]

To me brass and steel would cause galvanic corrosion. I also just want to read up on various ideas or techniques.

I've looked and don't know of any books on construction, however, there are many great web pages that go into quite a bit of detail. Take a look at Bill Carters web site: http://www.billcarterwoodworkingplanemaker.co.uk/index.html

Brass & steel are fine - brass is used as filler when brazing steel. I have several brass/steel dovetailed planes that are over 10 years old, no issues. Aluminum and other [ferrous] metals can be an issue, especially if salt/sweat is involved. Bronze (copper & tin) has a nicer patina (in my opinion) than brass (copper and zinc) and Silicon Bronze has even less corrosion (no sure about that one, but is a lot less than brass). Stay away from "soft"/low temp silver solders and their acid fluxes, they are really difficult to clean and will rust steel for years. Hard silver + fluoride fluxes work great but the flux is really nasty stuff.

[Brett Luna]

I can't recommend a book but the current issue of Shop Notes (No. 136) includes a how-to article on just such a beastie.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Well whaddya know- and my Kindle version just showed up. Thanks. I like the Damascus steel one in the article. Sadly, it would rust to pieces here. That's why I want to use bronze and stainless.

[David Weaver]

I haven't dovetailed damascus or bronze, but I've done tool steel to tool steel dovetails and mild steel to brass (not sure of the alloy).

The best thing to do is to look at a quick tutorial about the shape of the dovetails and then just cut and file a couple. Just take a few pieces of scrap and do it so you get the feel for filing, leaving excess tail material with a back cut and peining it together.

[Kees Heiden]

Stainless steel? Good luck!

[david charlesworth]

Malcolm,

My third book has three articles on the construction of a Shepherd kit.

As usual, I go into considerable detail. I had some invaluable advice on peining from Karl Holtey.

best wishes,
David Charlesworth

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Thank you, David. I will grab a copy of that. Much appreciated.

[Brian Thornock]

I would recommend against the stainless part, as most alloys tend to work harden. That means that, depending on how much peening you have to do, you might get it half way smooshed and then be trying to peen hardened steel. Or you might get it peened and then have to sand back the hardened remainder, which in conjunction with the softer bronze, could result in a poor surface finish. If you do decide to go that route, keep us posted, as I like to build the occasional infill and I like hearing others experience.

[mike holden]

Malcolm
Try "Making and Modifying Woodworking Tools" by Jim Kingshott, ISBN 0946819327
There are plans and instructions for two different dovetailed planes as well as a plethora of other tools and wooden planes.
Highly Recommended!
It is out of print, but I would try abebooks.com.
Mike

BTW, this book was published by the same folks who published David Charlesworth's books - Guild of Master Craftsmen Publications Ltd.

[David Weaver]

I like to build the occasional infill and I like hearing others experience.

Me, too. The one thing I found difficult to sort out was getting materials that didn't cost the moon. Finding large exotics big enough to make a closed handle plane, and dry, and in the right orientation was a chore. And then buying the appropriate metals (naval brass and cartridge brass were suggested to go along with a steel sole) was also difficult to do economically. Someone cutting their own cap iron will need brass or bronze bar stock for the cap iron, a suitable cap iron screw, steel for the sole and then bronze or brass sides. Then suitable dry stock (walnut from a gunstock blank can be used, but those aren't that cheap either). To make an 18" panel plane is expensive.

It may be unavoidable, but when you're thinking of making your first plane (which should be something shorter than a panel plane, anyway), getting those details taken care of is a pain.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I would recommend against the stainless part, as most alloys tend to work harden. That means that, depending on how much peening you have to do, you might get it half way smooshed and then be trying to peen hardened steel. Or you might get it peened and then have to sand back the hardened remainder, which in conjunction with the softer bronze, could result in a poor surface finish. If you do decide to go that route, keep us posted, as I like to build the occasional infill and I like hearing others experience.

Thanks Brian (and Kees)- I was actually concerned about work hardening the stainless. I have gained some knowledge of metals over time, mostly from boatbuilding and tools, but this highlights why I was hoping for a book that might discuss specific metals to use or not to use. My biggest concern is galvanic corrosion from two "unfriendly" metals, and also getting a steel that is too hard to peen or a brass/bronze that is too soft.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Me, too. The one thing I found difficult to sort out was getting materials that didn't cost the moon. Finding large exotics big enough to make a closed handle plane, and dry, and in the right orientation was a chore. And then buying the appropriate metals (naval brass and cartridge brass were suggested to go along with a steel sole) was also difficult to do economically. Someone cutting their own cap iron will need brass or bronze bar stock for the cap iron, a suitable cap iron screw, steel for the sole and then bronze or brass sides. Then suitable dry stock (walnut from a gunstock blank can be used, but those aren't that cheap either). To make an 18" panel plane is expensive.

It may be unavoidable, but when you're thinking of making your first plane (which should be something shorter than a panel plane, anyway), getting those details taken care of is a pain.

I am making some gudgeons and pintles for a boat with an unusual curve to the stern, so it needs a custom part. I have made the plug and am sending it out to be cast in bronze. I thought about sending out a plug for a cap iron and who knows- maybe even a plane body. The guy said if he can fit them all in one mold then he could cast them at once and save me labor overall. Otherwise, it would be cost prohibitive, i.e. if I were not already getting a part cast.

[Brian Thornock]

Brass and bronze are not quite as big of risks with galvanic corrosion when compared to something like steel with aluminum. If you want to use bronze and stainless, a pinned construction should work just fine and you won't have nearly the risk of work hardening, though you should still exercise caution when drilling and grinding the stainless. Also, a pinned construction can me made invisible. Yes, dovetails look really cool, but if you are set on stainless, I would probably go pinned.

I have some really nice 12/4 black walnut that my brother gave me from a tree he chainsawed up. That's going to get used for plane infills and perhaps a bridle plough plane.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Pinned is good. I prefer the look of the dovetails but not dead set on that. I love the look of this one: