Call Cermark. If that fail, cut the can open and salvage what's in there.
Call Cermark. If that fail, cut the can open and salvage what's in there.
Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )
Trotec 80W Speedy 300 laser w/everything
CAMaster Stinger CNC (25" x 36" x 5")
USCutter 24" LaserPoint Vinyl Cutter
Jet JWBS-18QT-3 18", 3HP bandsaw
Robust Beauty 25"x52" wood lathe w/everything
Jet BD-920W 9"x20" metal lathe
Delta 18-900L 18" drill press
Flame Polisher (ooooh, FIRE!)
Freeware: InkScape, Paint.NET, DoubleCAD XT
Paidware: Wacom Intuos4 (Large), CorelDRAW X5
If you've only had one can fail, consider yourself lucky! I've had many. But never has the main tube been clogged.
Try this-- find an old can that worked, take the spray top off and let it soak in hot water or alcohol for awhile...
Take the spray top off the bad can, and set it aside. Some of those just don't work well. And what happens is, while the
top is blocking the spray, the valve in the can lets cermark seep thru, and then the valve clogs...
So take your can to a sink, get the water coming out hot, turn it down to a small stream and place the can under the stream. Let the hot water wash out the valve for about 2 minutes.
Shake the daylights out of the can, at least a full minute or more. Now the fun and messy part. Grab something that will fit into the valve hole-- I use a small HF T-handle allen wrench that barely fits-- and grab a rag to cover the can top, then push open the valve. Chances are you'll get a nice blast of cermark. It may take more than one push and/or a second rinse, but it's never failed me.
If it works, go get the spray top you were soaking, and a small paper clip or straight pin, and clear out as much remaing guck from the little tube. Blow it out with compress air if you have it. A couple more quick rinses in the water or alky won't hurt.
Shake the can good again, put on the clean top and hopefully you'll be good to go!
I've found that cans that clog don't have enough alky 'thinner' within, for whatever reason. Those cans require re-shaking almost constantly while using them....
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ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
FOUR - CO2 lasers
THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
ONE - vinyl cutter
CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle
The only time I used an airbrush resulted in clogging and more hassles in cleaning it up than it was worth. I have once again reverted to thinning the paste and, applying with a foam brush. Any tips on easy cleaning for an airbrush? I assume it has to be emptied after each use.
Hilton Lister. NZ
GCC Spirit 60w. Meistergram 912, Gravograph IT, Old Roland Vinyl Cutter, Hand engraving, Retired
Hilton, the trick on the airbrush, as mentioned by someone else here, is to use a cheap one. Don't use something like a Pasche for that. Get a cheap $10 Harbor Freight one, open the tip up wide, and it'll spray it fantastic. When you are done spraying, you can cap the jar off, run water through the pickup tube and it'll clean it pretty well. Next time you use it, put some alcohol in the jar mixture, stir it, and you're all set. It works really well. The cermark will eventually crack the pickup tube. At the first sign of any troubles, I toss it in the trash can and get a new one.
Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers
Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.
I got this sprayer at Home Depo for $20 bucks. I'm going to hook it up to my compressor and it should work fine! simple little gun that comes all apart for cleaning. I've got 2 compressors from my carpentry business and I'll just mix up my own cermark paste. I seemed to me to be a better vertion of the thing cermark was trying to sell with the can of compessed air...0416151924.jpg0416151941.jpg
Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )
Trotec 80W Speedy 300 laser w/everything
CAMaster Stinger CNC (25" x 36" x 5")
USCutter 24" LaserPoint Vinyl Cutter
Jet JWBS-18QT-3 18", 3HP bandsaw
Robust Beauty 25"x52" wood lathe w/everything
Jet BD-920W 9"x20" metal lathe
Delta 18-900L 18" drill press
Flame Polisher (ooooh, FIRE!)
Freeware: InkScape, Paint.NET, DoubleCAD XT
Paidware: Wacom Intuos4 (Large), CorelDRAW X5
hfairbrush.jpg
This is what I use- it's cheap, the bottles and air nozzle are totally separate, easy to work with.. I keep the bleeder hole plugged with a piece of toothpick, sprays fine and I can shake it without Cermark getting all over the place. I have some thin craft wire to run down the tube to clean it when it needs it.
The secret to having it not clog? Add more alcohol. I thin mine out big time, and put on 2 coats...
DO get an air pressure regulator. The difference between 5 psi and 8 psi is substantial!
>edit< -- another trick to keep from clogging, cut the intake tube so it's at least 1/8" from the bottom of the jar. Cermark separates real quick, shortening the tube keeps it from picking up the thicker solids...
And finally, because Cermark separates real quick, SHAKE as often as possible...
Last edited by Kev Williams; 04-16-2015 at 8:52 PM.
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ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
FOUR - CO2 lasers
THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
ONE - vinyl cutter
CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle
I use about a 10:1 ratio... too thin for some, but it has worked out quite well for me, and never once have I have a clog. I tend to shake between squirts, so that likely helps a bit. I never thought of shortening the pickup tube... but I suppose I don't need to if it hasn't caused a problem yet.
Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )
Trotec 80W Speedy 300 laser w/everything
CAMaster Stinger CNC (25" x 36" x 5")
USCutter 24" LaserPoint Vinyl Cutter
Jet JWBS-18QT-3 18", 3HP bandsaw
Robust Beauty 25"x52" wood lathe w/everything
Jet BD-920W 9"x20" metal lathe
Delta 18-900L 18" drill press
Flame Polisher (ooooh, FIRE!)
Freeware: InkScape, Paint.NET, DoubleCAD XT
Paidware: Wacom Intuos4 (Large), CorelDRAW X5
I was one who recommended stirring the devil out of the jar but somebody recommended putting some small nuts in the jar as agitators and I found that they work better than stirring.
Mike Null
St. Louis Laser, Inc.
Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
Gravograph IS400
Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
Dye Sublimation
CorelDraw X5, X7
I too use several cans a year. I don't worry about the waste, as it pays so well. I do occasionally run out of propellent or clog. I bought a re-usable container and can of propellent.
This works for me, but if I did it every day I may use one of the a fore mentioned methods. Any less and you are wasting your valuable time on them.
Last edited by Tim Bateson; 04-17-2015 at 3:33 PM.
Tim
There are Big Brain people & Small Brain people. I'm one of the Big Brains - with a lot of empty space.- me
50W Fiber - Raycus/MaxPhotonics - It's a metal eating beast!
Epilog Fusion M2 50/30 Co2/Fiber - 2015
Epilog Mini24 – 35watt - 2006 (Original Tube)
Ricoh SG3110DN
- Liberty Laser LLC
I didn't like the spray can at all. Very difficult to get the proper, thin coat. Paste with a brush or airbrush is the only way I'd consider doing Cermark.
Equipment: IS400, IS6000, VLS 6.60, LS100, HP4550, Ricoh GX e3300n, Hotronix STX20
Software: Adobe Suite & Gravostyle 5
Business: Trophy, Awards and Engraving
I used my new airbrush today for a bunch of champagne buckets. I was a little nervous as I had to have this job done by end of week and only my clogged can of Cermark. Plus it was my first time with an airbrush and I was pretty high on "clog fear"
All I can say is wow! The airbrush really did the business. These were my least stressful, highest quality engraves I have done. With the airbrush you can get a super fine coat, no runs at all. And washing is so much easier too. Here are a couple of pics from today's work.
stainless_bucket.jpg
stainless_hip_flask_front.JPG
Cheers
Keith
Universal Laser VLS6.60, Tantillus 3D printer, Electronic design
edns Group, Mairangi Bay, Auckland, New Zealand
As I've mentioned several times earlier, I prefer an air brush but my highest paying job is one where I must use a sponge brush--the one inch variety. It works well and is very economical.
Mike Null
St. Louis Laser, Inc.
Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
Gravograph IS400
Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
Dye Sublimation
CorelDraw X5, X7
I tried the tape when it came out years ago without any luck so that was a hundred bucks wasted. Recently I bought a can and from the start it was clogged and spitting. It made a big mess but I didn't call and complain. I used it instead of the rotary engraver to engrave over 300 big metal keys for some kind of church handout. They looked good when I experimented. I lasered, washed and dried one by one, looked great. I lasered the rest and an employee took the whole batch and soaked them in water as she took each one out and rinsed and dried. All the cermark came off! It left a faint amount, just enough that I had to use a scrubber to clean them. They even discolored so I used a degreaser, used metal etch primer, spray painted them satin silver and the ran them again without the cermark and the customer is happy. She was willing to pay for my trouble but it was my fault, not hers so I didn't charge any extra. She's happy but I'm not! I really thought I was going to save time using cermark and lasering 30 at a time instead of one at a time with the rotary. Boy was I wrong!