Pics of New Tote for Disston #7 Handsaw

[lowell holmes]

I guess you are referring to hang angle. I'm not sure if the saw with the larger teeth is a rip saw, but I suspect it is.

The hang angle could very well be different. I don't see what you are talking about.

Cutting the slot can change the hang angle, and it is difficult to cut exact. It is easy for a tote to turn out a bit different as it is worked. The wood might not co-operate like you expect.

I think Mike did a great job.

[Pat Barry]

I guess you are referring to hang angle....The hang angle could very well be different. I don't see what you are talking about..

Here is what I was trying to describe. See the angles defined by the handle and the tooth line. This angle difference would result in less or more downward force during the saw stroke. I was just curious if Mike made it this way for a particular purpose.

sawhandles.jpg

[Mike Allen1010]

Pat you are 100 %right the hang angles are different. Definitely not a grand plan, I just didn't align the tote with the plate the same when I marked the holes. It works great.

For me, hang angle is more relevant for joinery and fine pitch crosscutters.

Cheers, Mike

[David Weaver]

Agree with that sentiment, mike. The little bits of difference in those two saws can easily be handled by rake angle (which itself is often talked about in absolutes on here, but better decided by someone who is using the saw day to day to decide "it has too much bite" or "it doesn't have enough bite and I have to try to influence it".

Nice handle, btw. Anything with a lamb's tongue is a big pain. I think you made the right decision saving the apple - there is going to be some point where you want to use it, and if it was quartered, this might be it, but since it's flatsawn, I'd do the same - wait until something really speaks to you about its use.

[Mike Allen1010]

The saw handle looks beautiful.

Thanks very much George for your kind comment. Coming from you I couldn't hope for any higher phrase. I'm like the thousands of others here on the Creek who have been inspired and educated by your fantastic work and helpful insights and comments. Thank you very much for sharing your experience and expertise with all of us on SMC. I consider your presence here to be one of our communities greatest assets.


{Quote= David Weaver] "I think you made the right decision saving the apple - there is going to be some point where you want to use it, and if it was quartered, this might be it, but since it's flatsawn, I'd do the same - wait until something really speaks to you about its use."

Thanks David for your advice. I really appreciate your insight and expertise on all things related to hand tools, particularly shop built tools.I really enjoyed your post about the coffin smoother builds - great work and super helpful instruction and build insights!

As I mentioned in a post about a copy of a Disston #9 back saw I just built from parts from Ron Bontz, I recklessly acquired parts for three more shop built back saws. I may try and use some of the Apple for an open tote dovetail saw. The Apple's air dried and I'm hoping the smaller scale/size of the tote (as compared to a larger, closed toed), will reduce the risk of warping that could cause bends in the tooth line.

Just like you mentioned in your post "I hate saw Kits", I find shop built back saws to be among the most challenging tool building projects I attempt. Keeping the tooth line and plate perfectly straight, while still getting it solidly mounted to the tote is still kind of a mystery for me. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't - I really have no idea why in either case.


If I decide to use the Apple on as a tote for the dovetail saw all try and post some build pictures – not that I'm sure would really help anyone.

All the best, Mike

[David Weaver]

I think that's a good idea. An open handle saw will have small cheeks. Plus, you'll have it in your shop, so it probably has limited movement potential compared to making saws in one spot and shipping saws all over the world.

I think that a special setup with a sled against a fence and a low-set bandsaw blade would probably make cheeks better than can be hand sawn, and the brass backs if folded would need to come from a back that was chamfered and cleaned up, and then folded. My recent backs have been cut or sheared and they still have some scuzz at the edges and then they get folded together and that scuzz gets pinched in the backs. You and me and every other normal person has no easy way to get that stuff out, especially when it's brass cuttings that is still hanging on.

My first two saws came with backs that were finished and stamped "wenzloff and sons", chamfered and all. I have no idea why Mike was so generous on those backs, but they went together well and straight, but both saws had big english handle types and the handles influenced the plates a little bit (I cut them by hand, too), so they still are not perfect.

It's probably nice to get process down when saw making and have made a hundred or two hundred and really get everything set well. For the average person using only hand tools, it's pretty difficult to make a perfect product. I still can't carve a decent lamb's tongue that is uniform around the bottom of the handle and then tapers nicely and perfectly around the curve until it thins out to the tip.

It's nice to have threads about these things, though. Thanks for posting your builds and fixes!

[george wilson]

When we made all those saws,I had a special,extra thin bandsaw blade I used to slot the back saw handles. Our usual blades were much thicker. It worked quite well. Our usual blades were .032" thick + set. The thin blade was .025" IIRC. More like the type of blade you'd use on a small bench model home shop bandsaw,except it was on a Delta 20" bandsaw.

For the .015" thick dovetail saws I did saw all of them by hand.