door lock boring jig

[mreza Salav]

I am using a backer clamped to the door and can cut all the way without tear out but what are these levers or plug poppers?

[Peter Stahl]

Here are the Poppers http://vsctools.com/shop/the-plug-popper/ I never used them but Tom King might be able to tell you what he thinks of them. How thick is your door and how deep is the Hole cutter? If you cut halfway though then cut the rest from the other side you shouldn't get any tear out.

[Tom M King]

They work great, and save the aggravation of getting a plug out of a hole saw.

[mreza Salav]

doors are about 1 3/4" thick (or just a little less).

Peter, I am going to pull my drill press to use it (will bring the bench top up a bit). The carbide tip hole saw (with 3 tips) is aggressive and can catch and get stuck in the piece which means the geared hand drill I was using twisted my hand in the scrap I tried!

[Tom M King]

Here's the one I use, and have used for something over 30 years, or at least one exactly like it. I only use holesaws for anything if there is no other choice. I use a 1/2" spade handle drill for that bit. Point of hip provides feet pressure. If predrilling, I stand in the same place, and the guys move the doors. If drilling after hanging, Big Mike uses foot, knee and hands on the other side of the door to hold it against me doing the drilling. He's 6-5 312. I have a seat toolbox that holds all the tools, and puts me seated at the right height to drill, and route the other holes after a door is hung.

http://www.doorlocksdirect.com/89904...UTSxoCNkLw_wcB

They show all the other parts for the Kwikset jig on that page too. I made my jigs out of Baltic Birch plywood, and hardened the working edges with epoxy. They have all held up great for many uses. I use Whiteside template bits. Any jigs that are screwed to the jamb have the screw holes where the stop will hide the holes. The plunger jig is a fixed right angle, with the exact size hole as the plate for the plunger, and the other side is longer in both directions to clamp to the door with quick-clamps. I bought the cheap plastic jigs to make the good jigs with, and it worked perfectly.

The jamb hinge jig allows me to hang doors plumb in old houses where the wall might not be exactly plumb.

If the doors have already been finished, and the lock mortises not cut, I'd hang the door, and then cut the lock mortises. We cut first everything, if we are also finishing the doors, except the strike mortise on the jamb. That is always cut after the door is up. We cut first because we finish all the doors flat on rotisseries, and it saves masking or cutting in.

31 doors would be most of a days work for me and my two helpers.

[Chris Fournier]

Mreza, I would think $450 would get lost in the noise after building 31 doors. Now is not the time to go cheap.

Winner winner chicken dinner! Get the tool, you are well past ho humming about $450.00. Messing up your doors would be a mistake of epic proportions.

[Peter Quinn]

doors are about 1 3/4" thick (or just a little less).

Peter, I am going to pull my drill press to use it (will bring the bench top up a bit). The carbide tip hole saw (with 3 tips) is aggressive and can catch and get stuck in the piece which means the geared hand drill I was using twisted my hand in the scrap I tried!

If you are using a press I'd go with a forschner as the hole saw is essentially a hand held tool. A press can easily drill the holes and no plugs to deal with. We made a jig at work to hold full size doors for cylinder holes, works great.