You can't go wrong with the words from Warren. I have found that not everyone means the same thing with "flat bevel". Some people mean it literally - a single flat face over the whole bevel. Other people mean hollow grind and then hone at the same angle - eventually it flattens out, but never fully because you regrind (I do this).
I am experimenting (I'd say maturing) into a variant of this method. I hollow grind on a 8in wheel with every tool, every time I sharpen. I leave the faintest line that I can see, unless I need to address the shape of the edge - then I go through the edge just enough to get the shape I need. I then hone all the way through the edge until I get a burr on the back and I have the edge shape I want.
- With tools that are used free-hand (like chisels and drawknives) I hone at the same angle as the grind (flat-ish bevel). I think this gives better control of the tool because I can ride the entire bevel and the cutting edge matintains consistent contact with the wood. Trying to ride the micro-bevel is much more difficult. Hope this makes sense. I got this idea from a famous spoon carving book.
- With irons that are captured (planes and spokeshaves) I hone a microbevel using a guide. It's fast, easy, and does not cause a loss of control because the tool is captured anyway.
With either method I use zero back bevel (just hone flat each time) and I am 100% confident that I am going through the wear bevel every time.
Warren - I'd be glad to post whatever you put together on my blog to save it. Just send it to me. And I may get around to the Roubo lathe build this year. I found some nice 4x4 white oak posts...
that you also aspire to lead a quiet life, to mind your own business, and to work with your own hands, as we commanded you...
1 Thessalonians 4:11