Safest way to cut maple counter top

[Bob Cooper]

I've glued up a 25"x72"x1 1/8" soft maple top. I've also made a template out of 1/2" MDF. I'd like to cut the top into two pieces along the template. My goal is to the insert some contrasting wood and then glue the top back together.

Question. What's the best way to cut the top?

im planning on using my dewalt router with a guide bushing and some type of up cutting bit but after I get a groove I'm not sure I see how to get all the way thru cleanly and safely. Also any bit recommendations?

[Paulh Tremblay]

I would use a circular saw with a guide, and then trim the edge with your router. You could make two passes with the router for each cut piece. The first pass with the router could be guided by a straight guide, and the second pass you could use a trimming bit, letting the ball bearing part of the bit ride along the trimmed part you just created. .

[Rick Fisher]

I have done a few and used a circ saw with a clamped guide. I think I have either a 48 tooth or a 60 tooth Tenryu 7-1/4" Blade.. Very clean cut ..

[Bob Cooper]

I cannot use a circular saw as the template is curved

[Bradley Gray]

I would consider using a bit the same width as the inlay and not routing all the way through.

[Al Launier]

Use the template to lay out the curve, a jigsaw/saber saw to rough cut, and then an extension (extra long) router bit to finish.

Or, route all the way through using the template.

I tried these for a project & they worked well. http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Bit-Core-B...E:L:OC:US:3160 or these
http://www.amazon.com/Yonico-14150-S...ter+bit+yonico

[Keith Hankins]

Use a jig saw to cut it close and a router with a flush trim bit to finish it. I used this method a lot. By template I'm assuming you mean a mdf template and not paper. If paper, use mdf to make a solid template for bearing to run against. Perfect for round.

[Mike Wilkins]

Does the design allow the use of an inlay?? You could use the curved template to route the groove and inlay/glue the contrasting wood into the top. Worth a try.

[Prashun Patel]

The two halves have to align perfectly, so I believe the best way is to use a spiral, downcutting or compression bit (like 3/8" or thicker). Go as deep as you can in multiple passes.
Then use a jigsaw to complete the cut.
Then use a top mounted flush trim bit to clean up the jigsawed line. The bearing will ride along the clean path on the top 1/2 made by the spiral bit.

If you only want a thin line, then I would go shallow on the spiral cut; 1/4" and smaller bits can snap when forced to extend - especially through a hard maple top. It's still doable; you'll just need a taller and thicker flushing bit.

Make sure your inserted contrasting wood is the same thickness as the spiral bit's thickness. If not, the length-wise seams of your counter will not re-align after glue up. To this end, you will do well to use a couple thin plies instead of a single one.

[Howard Acheson]

Slightly off subject but be sure that the grain of your inlay or insert runs in the same direction as the main table top. Otherwise, you may end up with warping and/or splitting.

[Prashun Patel]

Actually, now that I think about it, consider if it is possible to simply route a shallow groove into your top and then insert the inlay. You may not need to cut all the way through. The appeal of this approach goes up the thinner your inlay.

[Peter Quinn]

Is the inlay curved or straight? This is not clear, my approach would vary considerably depending on thAt factor and shape of counter at edges.

[Rich Enders]

Scott Lewis wrote an informative article for FWW a year or more ago. It covered this topic with a blanket. If needed I can go through old issues to pin point it better.

[Dave Cullen]

There was a "unique cutting board" project in FWW that may be similar to what you're trying to do -

A fellow on another forum did a build log of one, and he used a router and template to cut a 1/4 inch deep groove for the inlay, then cut through the center of the groove with a band saw and then a router with a flush trim bit to clean it up. The inlay needs to be the same width as the routed groove for things to line back up after glue up.

Edit: The article was by Scott Lewis, from FWW April 2014.

[Josh Rudolph]

As some have said you could match the piece to be glued in to the size of a router bit and inlay it.

However, I feel this method is limiting and would use Prashen's approach.

Cut a groove as deep as you can with your router following your template.
Finish cutting the counter top with a jigsaw keeping close to the edge of your routed groove.
Flip the piece and use a flush trim bit (bearing on the bottom)to clean up and flush up the areas that were cut by the jigsaw.

I don't know if I could get a good of enough finish straight from a jigsaw and for this scenario would rely on a router to give the desired finished surface.