Design issue - need suggestions

[Bill Hensley]

This spalted sycamore piece was originally mounted with a faceplate with the intention of turning a bowl but I changed my plan once I shaped the bottom. After I flipped and hollowed I was left with screw holes creating a larger opening than I wanted. So I filled the opening with walnut and now I have a design problem.

I need suggestions for resolving the joint line and not over doing it and ending up with a mess!"

Here's the situation:
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[charlie knighton]

Frank Penta would use a button on the bottom, you would need to fit it, they come in varity of sizes and styles

never tried one myself, but this seems a good place for one

[Michelle Rich]

not quite sure I understand, but I would make a bigger piece that goes over the joint line, with a reduced bottom to fit securely in your opening. You could then shape it in a nice pleasing slope.

[John Keeton]

This is not a problem, but an opportunity for a very nice walnut collar. Generally shape the collar into the form, leaving enough walnut proud of the form to do some bead/cove detailing, perhaps similar to the collar portion of this piece. Obviously, your collar will extend to the mouth, whereas this piece has additional elements beyond the collar.

You will need to use an incise cut to "hide" the transition to the walnut. That will work better than trying to have a smooth surface across the two woods.

[Bill Hensley]

Thanks all for the input. Sorry if my description wasn't quite clear.

Impatience got the best of me and I went with my gut feeling. I just finished the piece and did something close to what has John suggested. I turned a small bead at the base of the walnut but primarily in the sycamore. Now I just need to get the finish on it.

[Bill Hensley]

Finished piece. Used WB satin lacquer. Size is 9 1/2" x 4 3/8".

I regret not paying more attention to the wood before I turned it, the bottom had much character.

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[robert baccus]

It looks fine like that. You manage to do the same thing I always do. Put the pretty wood on the bottom. On the screw thing I have 2 thoughts. 1) use a single screw chuck--not on endgrain or punky wood. 2) Someone makes a 2&1/2" ? faceplate of aluminum for the 1&1/8" spindle. I am assuming a size here.