Workbench options

[Adam Stevens2]

I have a pretty basic workbench that I knocked up as I was beginning to get into woodworking, about a year ago. I have definitely discovered as time goes by and I am trying to get more done that the limitations of the bench are really bothering me - namely, workholding.

I do not have any vises or holes for dogs/holdfasts, so I spend a lot of time messing with clamping workarounds that really don't work. Most of the work I have been doing is furniture such as bookcases and tables. I would like to start making chests, drawers and the like, and I know that my bench won't be up to snuff to that type of work. I also have not really gotten into hand planing much yet and would like to, as soon as I can get my planes tuned up so that they work properly.

What might be the most appropriate options for the type of work I've been doing and would like to do? A leg vise appeals for its holding ability and versatility, but what other options might be best for my 'needs'? I'd appreciate all the advice I can get - searching for the web just adds to the confusion sometimes!

[Eric Schubert]

While I'm very new to woodworking myself, I would imagine some items that may be useful are:

Bench dogs - useful for holding/stopping work while planing faces of boards
Tail vise - used inconjunction with bench dogs (imagine dog holes on the top of the jaws), or for holding work on the end of the bench
Sliding deadman - helps hold longer boards up when planing edges
Face/Leg vise - holds boards for working on edges or ends, including dovetailing (I have read twin screw vises are best for dovetailing, if that's something you want to do often.)

You can also use holdfasts to hold boards down, or Lee Valley Wonder Dogs to help hold boards for face work if you don't have money for a tail vise.

Take all of this with a grain of salt, since I don't even have a bench built, myself. But I read most of this advice in Chris Schwartz's book on workbench designs. It seems like excellent information when building or improving a bench. I'm sure others will chime in with some great info from experiences for you, too.

[David Kuzdrall]

I have a pretty basic workbench that I knocked up as I was beginning to get into woodworking, about a year ago. I have definitely discovered as time goes by and I am trying to get more done that the limitations of the bench are really bothering me - namely, workholding.

I do not have any vises or holes for dogs/holdfasts, so I spend a lot of time messing with clamping workarounds that really don't work. Most of the work I have been doing is furniture such as bookcases and tables. I would like to start making chests, drawers and the like, and I know that my bench won't be up to snuff to that type of work. I also have not really gotten into hand planing much yet and would like to, as soon as I can get my planes tuned up so that they work properly.

What might be the most appropriate options for the type of work I've been doing and would like to do? A leg vise appeals for its holding ability and versatility, but what other options might be best for my 'needs'? I'd appreciate all the advice I can get - searching for the web just adds to the confusion sometimes!

I was in your situation a few years ago...best advise I have is to pick up the most recent version of Chris Schwarz book on benches, read it, ask questions, read it again then cherry pick what you like / need from each type of bench and create your own configuration.

[Robert Hazelwood]

Making workbenches is fun, and I have a Roubo in the works myself, but if your current bench is decently stout and stable you can make it function pretty well by just installing a cast iron vise and screwing down 1/4" thick strips of wood as planing stops. For my current (semi-temporary) bench I bought some 1/4" poplar at the home center and countersunk holes for some #8 screws. I can fasten them at the ends and sides of a work piece to keep it in place while planing the faces, with no clamps to get in the way of my plane. It is really versatile and doesn't distort the wood like a tail-vise can. It's worked so well that I keep putting off finishing the Roubo, ha. The downside is you are screwing into the bench, which is ugly and eventually will cause the top to need wear out (although I think that will take a LONG time, especially if you take care to re-use screw holes as much as possible.)

Anyways, just a thought on a way to keep you going without dropping big coin and lots of time on a new bench (not that there's anything wrong with that!)

[ken hatch]

Making workbenches is fun, and I have a Roubo in the works myself, but if your current bench is decently stout and stable you can make it function pretty well by just installing a cast iron vise and screwing down 1/4" thick strips of wood as planing stops. For my current (semi-temporary) bench I bought some 1/4" poplar at the home center and countersunk holes for some #8 screws. I can fasten them at the ends and sides of a work piece to keep it in place while planing the faces, with no clamps to get in the way of my plane. It is really versatile and doesn't distort the wood like a tail-vise can. It's worked so well that I keep putting off finishing the Roubo, ha. The downside is you are screwing into the bench, which is ugly and eventually will cause the top to need wear out (although I think that will take a LONG time, especially if you take care to re-use screw holes as much as possible.)

Anyways, just a thought on a way to keep you going without dropping big coin and lots of time on a new bench (not that there's anything wrong with that!)

Must be because it seems I'm always making one :-).

I'm helping (I'm pretty much doing the building) a friend build one in my shop just a couple of months after finishing my last build. I think most new builds are over thunk, as I've posted before build it simple and quick. Work on it for awhile, build another making changes, then work on that one for awhile and so on. About your third or fourth bench You will know what works and what is not worth the trouble and if you want then build your final "pretty" bench. I'll bet if you do it that way by the finial bench you will be surprised at how simple it will be, most of the in fashion today "must haves" will be left off and you will have a bench that works for the way you work with nothing that gets in the way.

ken

[Mark AJ Allen]

I was in your situation a few years ago...best advise I have is to pick up the most recent version of Chris Schwarz book on benches, read it, ask questions, read it again then cherry pick what you like / need from each type of bench and create your own configuration.

Ditto. In fact, both his books on the subject have many takeaways and it was all the information I needed when I did the research to make my bench. IIRC, the first one breaks down all the 'typical' activities and (in his opinion) the best ways to hold them to execute them; this information seems directly inline with what the OP is asking. For me the best ways are traditional because I'm primarily hand tools; holdfasts, benchstops/dogs. (though I do love the LV tail vice)

[Mike Holbrook]

I like videos. Schwarz's DVD "The Workbench- How to Design or Modify a Bench for Efficient Use" goes over most methods for holding work for working the different types of sides/grains. He demonstrates ways to make an existing bench better and in the process builds a knowledge base that is helpful when one takes the plunge and makes a new bench from scratch.

My other favorite Workbench DVD is Bob Lang's "Build the 21st-Century Workbench". Bob goes over practical methods for building a bench that can be taken apart for moving. He even has Schwarz visit to discuss a few final design considerations. Bob's design is the one I find most attractive and judge other designs by. Bob does some things differently than Chris, split bench with removable tool wells, wider bench....Bob has posted on these pages several times in the past. He is apparently happy with his design several years after making and using it. He mentions changing two things: making the front half of the split larger in relation to the back split and reducing the size of the removable trays a little.

I am rebuilding two old workbenches that are small and not heavy enough. One for my home, one for my business on the same property, but far enough away to need it's own bench. Then I will build another bench or two, so I am wading similar waters.

[Judson Green]

For a quicky bench I like Paul Sellers take on it. I'd add a tail vise of some sort, with dogs. And move the front vise more to the left and make it flush with the apron. Also make the front apron not so deep.

I use the very inexpensive cabinetmakers vises from grizzly on my bench, a little difficult to install but work just fine once done.

[Jim Koepke]

Adam,

If possible some pictures of your bench might be of help.

One consideration would be how much do you want to put into or spend on this bench?

If there is an apron all around there are some low cost solutions.

A crochet can be used for the edge work on boards. This would require some kind of support along the front of the bench. This is easy if there is an apron. A series of dog holes can be made for dogs to support the work. If the top is thick enough an apron might not be necessary.

Here is one post about using a crochet:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...8096-A-Crochet

There is a thin apron on the ends of my bench. This allows for a board to be clamped to the end that can be used as a planing stop.

With dogs and a clamp small pieces can be held flat on the top of the bench to allow planing.

This page has an image showing a 'bird mouth' used with a hold fast, a clamp will also work:

http://insidetheworkshop.blogspot.co...ine-stick.html

You have to scroll down a bit.

There are a lot of ways to use dogs as stops for planing. With two rows sometimes a couple of dogs in the inside row and a board between the dogs and my work keep it from sliding sideways while it is against an end dog. Round dogs are easy to make out of dowel stock if you do not have a lathe.

Adding a vise is also a great option. There are many possibilities for both face vises and tail vises.

Mine are just simple cheap ones that came with the bench, but there haven't been many challenges they haven't been able to meet.

jtk

[Prashun Patel]

Personally, i would start with a face vise. You can do a lot with it and it is the easiest to install. It is more versatile than a tail or leg vise, which i would only recommend if you do certian kinds of operations.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Face vise is easy to install and very useful, as Prashun notes.

OTOH - the tail vise, with a long line of dog holes in front of it - gets the most use - clamp boards to work the face, hold drawer sides to work the dovetails, etc.

Dunno how you install this gizmo on an existing bench - I guess you have to add 3 - 4 inches to he width of the table top.

[Jeff Zens]

A good workbench is without a doubt the most important tool in any woodworker's shop. A poorly designed bench will provide endless hours of frustration (as the OP expressed in his post) while a good design is more useful than a third hand or an apprentice. There are so many bench designs to choose from, and the debate will go on forever as to which one is "best". The two design styles that have the most longevity are the Roubo-style, and the classic European cabinetmaker's bench. That's the style Frank Klaus (and many others) advocate. It's the style I have worked on for over thirty years, and it's hard to find fault with the design. Tage Frid's third book (Furnituremaking) has a detailed set of plans for this style bench included as one of the projects. Building a bench like this is educational, it's rewarding, and at the end you'll have an essential tool for your shop.

My advice: get a set of plans for whatever style you choose, and get one built for your shop.

[Curt Putnam]

I have an el cheapo Sjoberg's bench. The whole bench weighs less than 100 lbs which means that it scoots across my concrete floor when planing. Piling weight on helps that problem. Then, of course, it still racks even if it doesn't move, and lastly the top is cupped along its length. This last condition prevents me from face planing panels. I'm at the point, having acquired the lumber, of milling the lumber for the design that is not yet final. I think I can start on the top because I know I do not have room for an 8' bench, therefore I will make 7' tops which could be cut down as necessary and glued together if decide on a solid top.

The point is that you need a good, flat bench.

[Matthew Hills]

Re: the Sjoberg's banana, scooter bench:

- flatten the top
- can you put a diagonal brace on it (to prevent the racking)
- put sandbags, put rubber pads underneath the feet to minimize scooting (or screw to wall)

Matt

[Tom M King]

Since a jobsite is temporary for me, I've gotten by with a small bench light enough to move around. I put one corner against a wall under a North facing window. The corner against a wall keeps it from scooting.