A big thank you to Wes of Johnson Plastics for the sample bottle of LM6060!
Here is my first completed mark with it. I did one test on a busted knife blade using a miniaturized version of Gary Hair's Power Grid file from here. The best settings I ended up with were 30mm/s, 98p, .03mm LPI. 40 probably would have been ok but I wanted a little extra insurance. 50 had some washoff at the edges and wasn't a deep black. At 20 it seemed like it might be burning the cermark as it wasn't a nice clean patch like 30 was. 10 and down showed similar grain and roughness. So I settled at 40 for the best look and stepped it one lower for insurance.
Its a 9mm round (No powder or primer. What? You think I am stupid and put a live round in a laser? )
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(I know, my cell phone sux as a camera, DSLR battery was dead)
This is a die setup slug used to dial in the seating die between bullet/caliber changes on the reloading press. Its equivalent to your laser focus tool but for reloading for setting the depth of the bullet seating into the brass case. Its got the bullet weight, maker and the COAL for that round on the side. I have been using a sharpie but it wipes off over time. Now to see how the cermark on brass lasts
I couldn't use the rotary, the round is too small. So I used a 45 degree V block I cut ages ago for holding dowels for drilling on the drill press. I lined it with foil HVAC tape to prevent laser damage to the wood in case of an overshoot. Then I dropped a dowel in with a weight on it as a end stop so the head of the round (the end the firing pin hits) was in a uniform position for each etch/mark. Did two files, one for each line and rotated the case between etchings. Figured this was the easiest and least prone to errors way of doing this. The 38 special, 223, 30-06 and the 300 WinMag cases will be MUCH easier to work with as they are all way bigger and longer. 9 is a small round.
Seems I am better with the Cermark than the Rowmark Still gotta dial that in.