[OP]
Contributor
I've got a Grizzly G9983 15" wide belt sander.
I was sanding a 1/4" board today, and it stopped.
Now when I kick it in, it makes a loud noise, and the amp meter pegs, and stays pegged.
I shut it off, or it'll flip the breaker. When I turn it off, it quits with quite a bang.
The drive roller inside turns fine.
I'm just guessing...but could it be the run capacitor?
Member
Describe the loud noise...
[OP]
Contributor
That's a tuff one.
It's not really a buzzing, it's the sound an electrical motor might make, if the shaft was bound, and wouldn't spin when you kick it in.
Member
So then it's not the brakes stucking the drive belts or stuff. Yeah, so far, I'd be leaning towards the motor but I don't know much about your particular machine albeit could be the run capacitor, start capacitor or the centrifugal switches. Is the bang on shut-off the brakes or could it be some electrical relay?
[OP]
Contributor
Well, the rubber roller that drives the sanding belt, continues to spin, after the bang...so if that roller has a break, it's not engaging.
Do electrical relays make a bang?
Member
Like I say, never seen your machine but I'll offer up ideas. Wish there could be someone who has more familiarity with your model. Some relays make a bang and maybe it might be something you're hearing now that the machine isn't running without the usual machinery noise you're accustomed.
Did you get a chance to look at the motor...just a general look see? It seems to me you'll need to remove the access panel there on the bottom cabinet. There you should see the motor, brakes and the drive belt (like a fan belt). I was wondering if maybe the belt broke and is snagged around something stucking up the motor. Otherwise if nothing is visually broke then , yeah, you have to get into the electrical aspects to find the problem.
Contributor
Sounds exactly like the motor on my upcut saw. I won't re-mention the brand because I don't want to get your thread locked. I still have not gotten it repaired. I think that one of the windings shorted and the motor is single phasing. Sounds terrible, then quickly overloads with burnt electric smell. The local motor rewind shop that was recommended didn't even want me to bring it in because they do not like to work on these motors. We got another saw running in its place, so I have not yet bought a replacement motor. But I will be trying to find one that is US spec.
JR
[OP]
Contributor
I opened up the side panel. Everything actuallly looks fine. The belts are in good shape, and spin, when I turn it on.
Everything turns freely.
But, it's so loud when I turn it on. And, if I leave it on for more than 2 sec., it pops the breaker.
Then, it turns off with such a bang, that the whole machine jumps.
Contributor
One suggestion would be to call Grizzly technical support
Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
+1 they are familiar with the machine and should be able to diagnose.Originally Posted by scott vroom
One suggestion would be to call Grizzly technical support
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Member
That's about as sound as an advice that can be given at this point.... With what you've looked at so far you can help Grizzly narrow down to a diagnosis.One suggestion would be to call Grizzly technical support
Member
Please follow through including the fix for this machine, so I will know what to do if it happens to my sander.
Member
Me too! My thoughts exactly.
Wood'N'Scout
[OP]
Contributor
Issue fixed.
Grizzly tech support wasn't much help. They basically told me to do, whatever I could read in the manual for trouble shooting.
They then escalated me to Sr. Support, but said they'd have to call me back, and that could take 48 hours.
I called a local motor shop, and they asked me to bring in the motor.
So I did. Not fun to take out.
They said the switch inside was frozen shut. Had arc'ed, and basically welded itself shut. Plus one capacitor was shot.
Replaced the switch, and the capacitor, and now I'm back running.
If you look at the the parts blow-up on Grizzly's site, the switch is either 243-5 or 243-6. Can't tell from the diagram.
The new capacitor they had on hand was too big to fit into the case, so they just strapped it to the outside of the motor.
Grizzly said a new motor would cost about $650.
My electrician cost me $220.00, and the motor repair shop $225.
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