Something better than masking tape from HD?

[Mike Audleman]

When I have used a clear coat I always either sand afterward or wipe with a damp rag. So I choose which clear coat to use based on how long it takes to dry. My best results are realized by sanding, clear coating, engraving, sanding, then clear coating again. Much faster than mucking with transfer tape, and ends up with a nice finish.

What sort of clear coat are you using? Polyurethane? Acrylic? Enamel? Lacquer?

And when sanding after engraving, doesn't the tar and crud gum up your sandpaper?

[Mike Audleman]

Think I have a bit of a shopping list...

Tape from Harbor Freight
Pledge (thought just occurred to me)
Pinesol
Adhesive spray from Home Depot.
Various clear coat sprays from Home Depot.
And another can of DNA.

Just looked at the MSDS sheet on Pinesol. They changed it! It doesn't have pine oil anymore! Boo to you Clorox!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pine-Sol

[Rich Harman]

What sort of clear coat are you using? Polyurethane? Acrylic? Enamel? Lacquer?

And when sanding after engraving, doesn't the tar and crud gum up your sandpaper?

I'm no expert on the types of spray on clear coats. I just get what is fastest drying. There are at least a couple types that will dry real fast and not gum up when sanding. I am sure lacquer is one, I think I have used enamel also but I don't recall if that is the one that dries real fast.

I have also used brush/roll on water based polyurethane. It dries fairly fast and sands well too.

I generally prefer the satin finish over high gloss.

[David Somers]

Mike don't forget the plastic razor blades?

Bummer about Pinesol. I bet that changes the flavor a bunch. Oh. Wait. That would be Retsina, not Pinesol. Or was there a difference? Hmmmmmmmmm. <grin>

If you are using a motorized sander of some sort you can use a rubber sanding block to clean up the paper if needed. you generally mount the block to something solid, and then run the sander against the block till your paper is clean. Though to be honest, in most cases, it causes more problems than it solves since any spec of residue left on the paper will cause a gouge in the wood and do more damage that you need to sand away. Accept that sandpaper is an expendable item and don't get hung up on making it last and last.

Dave

[Chuck Stone]

Well I engrave bare wood at 60 speed and wood with tape at 20 or 30 speed. Twice as long. One of the downsides of having 30W.

I'm on 30w too, and it slows me down a LITTLE, not that much.
I do most of my engraving at 40 speed anyway (aging tube) but might
do it at 35 with tape. Can't say that I can SEE the speed difference.. the
speed on mine isn't linear that I can tell. (never quite got around to timing
it, and wouldn't know how to subtract the ramp up/down anyway)

[Mike Audleman]

Mike don't forget the plastic razor blades?

Bummer about Pinesol. I bet that changes the flavor a bunch. Oh. Wait. That would be Retsina, not Pinesol. Or was there a difference? Hmmmmmmmmm. <grin>

If you are using a motorized sander of some sort you can use a rubber sanding block to clean up the paper if needed. you generally mount the block to something solid, and then run the sander against the block till your paper is clean. Though to be honest, in most cases, it causes more problems than it solves since any spec of residue left on the paper will cause a gouge in the wood and do more damage that you need to sand away. Accept that sandpaper is an expendable item and don't get hung up on making it last and last.

Dave

Well, since I can't seem to figure out where to buy the plastic blades locally, I am resigned to having to search online for them somewhere. I have a thing against Amazon that I won't elaborate here due to the rules. So, since I can't find it listed at menards, home depot, etc, I have to search for it online and they probably wont be available to me for this current project. But, no I haven't forgotten them, they are simply out of the timeframe for this project (ie, the picnic is this coming weekend).

Its not trying to save a nickel on the paper. The residue seems to be a thick tar type substance thats not hard but is simi-liquid or is at least tacky and would be akin to sanding not completely cured paint (an instant sandpaper clogger!).

[Scott Shepherd]

Mike, try here.....

https://scraperite.com

They are the people that make them. I have no idea where they are, but you can order directly from them.

[Chuck Stone]

Well, since I can't seem to figure out where to buy the plastic blades locally,

If you need to get them locally (in a pinch) every auto parts store carries them.
They're with the pin striping and the paint sprayers. Auto body people use them
to remove masking and overspray.

[Rich Harman]

Mike don't forget the plastic razor blades...

Never used those, how do they compare to using an old credit card? A problem I have frequently when weeding is that the very small bits leave a smear of adhesive when trying to slide them off.

[Mike Chance in Iowa]

Never used those, how do they compare to using an old credit card? A problem I have frequently when weeding is that the very small bits leave a smear of adhesive when trying to slide them off.

I found using old business cards works well. The quality business cards that were made from thicker cardstock. Not the cheap, flimsy business cards.

[Mike Null]

I got mine from Grimco, the sign supplie, and the same place I get the transfer paper.

[Bert Kemp]

Yes clear coating the sheet first then just wipe off with a damp cloth. The water won't bother it. Also if you have to use tape try taking some masking or duck tape and use the sticky side to pull off whats left on the parts.

[Mike Audleman]

Yes clear coating the sheet first then just wipe off with a damp cloth. The water won't bother it. Also if you have to use tape try taking some masking or duck tape and use the sticky side to pull off whats left on the parts.

Tried both duct and masking tape in such a way. It won't stick to the tape I applied prior to engraving/cutting due to the residue.

Thats why I was considering the spray high tack adhesive on a sheet of paper. Thought maybe it would stick better.

Sorry, didn't get to shopping last night, GD10 needed homework help so that was first priority. She has vollebyall practice about the time I come home from work so I should get by the stores on the way home from work today.

[matt heinzel]

When we are done engraving and cutting we use Rubber Finger Pads to get the lit bits off. They work better if you turn them inside out first. You can get them at most office supply stores.

[Kev Williams]

Buy plastic razor blades? I just use the fresh cut edge of a scrap of rowmark! When it dulls, just shear it again. If you want a 'knife' edge, just hold it up at an angle and shear it!