finish for end tables

[Robert Culver]

I recently purchased a slab of Madre Cacao to make a set of end tables . When I purchased it I was told that it finished well with tung oil ? My concern is that the tung oil will not make a adequate water resistant finish . My concern is cup rings ect. I am looking for a satin finish but would like to enhance the grain and color while making it water resistant . What are some of your thoughts? thanks in advance.

[Lori Kleinberg]

I am sure someone will be along shortly to help with the grain popping. I made a couple of end tables last year out of red oak. Never considered anything but poly for protection and I also use coasters.

[David Hawxhurst]

tung oil will pop the grain. wait a few days to a week for the tung oil to cure then top coat with a oil based alkyd or phenolic varnish. my favorite is waterlox. can be used without doing tung oil first.

[Bill McNiel]

Waterlox Original

[Robert Culver]

I have finally got my hands on some waterlox . I plan on putting a coat of pure tung oil on and letting that sure for a week or what ever it takes to dry . I would like to wipe on the waterlox should I thin it down some or just wipe it as it is? I have heard of some people mixing equal parts of tung oil linseed oil and turpentine with the waterlox What are your thoughts? since the product already contains tung oil Is it redundant to start with a coat before applying the waterlox? this is my first time using this stuff and I comes highly recommended by a lot of people just really want to get it right !

[Stan Calow]

Robert, I use Waterlox often. I can't see what the purpose of thinning (its pretty thin already), adding tung oil, or turpentine would be.

[Steve Schoene]

I would not mix Tung Oil or linseed oil with the Waterlox if you are looking for protections from rings. Then it would become an oil/varnish mix, essentially a Danish Oil and you would not be able to build any film. It would be a bit more protective than tung oil itself. I don't see much reason for the initial application of oil, but if you let it cure--and a week would be ok as long as you do apply it correctly and vigorously wipe off excess oil after it has penetrated for a few minutes.

[David Hawxhurst]

if you got the original finish/sealer it doesn't need thinning its ready to use/wipe on as is. the satin or gloss should be thinned with mineral spirits for wiping. i would not add or mix anything into waterlox expect for mineral spirits. wipe it on like a 16 yr old wiping tables at burger king. the sheen will appear uneven but after the third or fourth coat it will even out. you don't need to apply a coat of tung oil first or any other oil.

[Robert Culver]

I spent a lot of time preparing my tops for finish today. I put my first coat of waterlox on this evening and I happy to say I am really pleased with it. The waterlox added a nice depth to it. Thanks to everybody for the advice.